Got well over 3.3 quarts in with my Transmission Oil drain & fill
  1. Welcome to Honda Odyssey Forum : Odyssey Minivan Forums – General discussion forum for Honda Odyssey

    Welcome to Honda Odyssey Forum : Odyssey Minivan Forums - a website dedicated to all things Honda Odyssey.

    You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, Join Honda Odyssey Forum : Odyssey Minivan Forums today!
     
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 37

Thread: Got well over 3.3 quarts in with my Transmission Oil drain & fill

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    L.A.
    Posts
    162

    Got well over 3.3 quarts in with my Transmission Oil drain & fill

    Decided to do another drain and fill last night and added about 3.3 quarts. The Wife noticed a distinctive shudder/rumble when idling this morning though (confirmed by me - 2 seconds off, 1 second rumble...etc). It was only while in D (not N or 2 or 1 or R or P) and seemed to lessen once the van warmed up.

    So I checked my fluid as per the van's manual (warmed up, level, van off) and it was showing as low so I ended up adding another 1/2 (or more?) quarts in there to get the level midway between the dots, or so.

    This seems like well over the suggested 3.3 quarts I've read elsewhere. BUT, my transmission was replaced by the previous owner...so maybe it's a bit different?

    Any thoughts?

    PS - I decided to go with Valvoline Max Life this time around after reading good things from many other Ody owners.
    2006 Silver Ex L with 100k
    new transmission
    1999 Suburban K2500 454

    2004 Scion xB 5spd (sold)
    2006 Scion xA 5spd (sold)
    2001 Ford Expedition 5.4 (sold and missed)
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder (sold)
    1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 (totaled)
    1977 K5 Blazer 350, 6" suspension lift (sold)
    1994 Acura Legend 6spd (sold)
    1991 Toyota Camry (given away, perished)
    1987 Toyota Tercel Hatchback 5spd (given away, perished)

  2. Remove Advertisements
    OdyClub.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Registered User kaimanson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Hialeah, FL
    Posts
    290
    Any difference after adding the extra oil?
    2008 Honda Odyssey EX-L Res/Nav - 87k
    2004 Mazda 3 2.0 - 120k
    2001 Nissan Sentra SE 2.0 - 187k (Sold in 2014)
    2000 Honda Odyssey EX-L - 107k (Now on my brother's hand in Canada - Totaled by a school bus)
    1992 Honda Prelude Type S - 206k (Sold in 2006)

  4. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    L.A.
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by kaimanson View Post
    Any difference after adding the extra oil?
    Good question! I think so, but I just ran it for a minute or two around the block. I'm letting the engine cool and will know more after we go out for a bit of a drive later today.
    2006 Silver Ex L with 100k
    new transmission
    1999 Suburban K2500 454

    2004 Scion xB 5spd (sold)
    2006 Scion xA 5spd (sold)
    2001 Ford Expedition 5.4 (sold and missed)
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder (sold)
    1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 (totaled)
    1977 K5 Blazer 350, 6" suspension lift (sold)
    1994 Acura Legend 6spd (sold)
    1991 Toyota Camry (given away, perished)
    1987 Toyota Tercel Hatchback 5spd (given away, perished)

  5. Remove Advertisements
    OdyClub.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Registered User Odyssey.owner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    861
    There is a procedure to check ATF level.

    Engine ( and transmission ) should be warmed up to normal operating temperature. Van parked on the flat surface. ATF level should be checked between 30 and 60 seconds ( if I remember correctly ) after engine was turned off.

    Also, if your transmission is in really bad condition, new ATF can actually make things worse, because old and dirty ATF with particles suspended in it helps worn out clutch plates to gain some friction. Hopefully its not the case here.
    2010 Odyssey EX RES Canadian
    Bought @130K with preexisting trans problems
    DIYs:
    1.Timing belt with all related parts ( Continental kit ) + drive belt tensioner
    2. B&A Passenger side engine mount.
    3. Complete ATF change, DW1
    4. ATF changed to Valvoline MaxLife - slippage gone!
    5. Low beam bulbs replaced with 9012 HIR2. Twice more light!
    6. B&A control arms
    7. CENTRIC 12040064/12040065 Rotors, Akebono ProACT pads
    8. Magnefine ATF filter
    9. Lubegard Shudder Fix - better shifting

  7. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    North Potomac, Maryland
    Posts
    1,244
    OP, did you measure the amount of fluid that you drained.

  8. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    L.A.
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by Odyssey.owner View Post
    There is a procedure to check ATF level.

    Engine ( and transmission ) should be warmed up to normal operating temperature. Van parked on the flat surface. ATF level should be checked between 30 and 60 seconds ( if I remember correctly ) after engine was turned off.

    Also, if your transmission is in really bad condition, new ATF can actually make things worse, because old and dirty ATF with particles suspended in it helps worn out clutch plates to gain some friction. Hopefully its not the case here.
    I just followed the manual, but this is exactly what I did: warm engine, flat surface, allowing just enough time for everything to settle.

    I think I've done the transmission drain and fill three times now since I've had the van (just under 3 years) and I don't think the tranny is in particularly bad condition. I did find a small accumulation of super fine shavings on the magnet, but I don't believe this is out of the ordinary.

    Quote Originally Posted by marvinstockman View Post
    OP, did you measure the amount of fluid that you drained.
    Negatory. I suppose this would have been a good idea though.



    After another bit of driving, I'm still not sure...I did notice the shudder at some point (it's mild, certainly not earth-shaking and could easily be something normal for my van that I'm simply looking for now and noticing) but then felt no signs of it at other points. So, I'll give it a bit more time and see and I'll check the level again tomorrow.
    2006 Silver Ex L with 100k
    new transmission
    1999 Suburban K2500 454

    2004 Scion xB 5spd (sold)
    2006 Scion xA 5spd (sold)
    2001 Ford Expedition 5.4 (sold and missed)
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder (sold)
    1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 (totaled)
    1977 K5 Blazer 350, 6" suspension lift (sold)
    1994 Acura Legend 6spd (sold)
    1991 Toyota Camry (given away, perished)
    1987 Toyota Tercel Hatchback 5spd (given away, perished)

  9. #7
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    L.A.
    Posts
    162
    I finally drove the van on a completely not-warmed up engine and that cycling shudder/rumble is rather pronounced and goes with a tic in RPMs. It fades away to nearly nothing once the van warms up though. There may be a bit of a hesitation when accelerating at times as well, that I don't believe was as strong before.

    Any thoughts on what's going on?

    I did an oil change at the same time as I did this tranny drain and fill, FYI.

    As always, thanks for the input!
    2006 Silver Ex L with 100k
    new transmission
    1999 Suburban K2500 454

    2004 Scion xB 5spd (sold)
    2006 Scion xA 5spd (sold)
    2001 Ford Expedition 5.4 (sold and missed)
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder (sold)
    1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 (totaled)
    1977 K5 Blazer 350, 6" suspension lift (sold)
    1994 Acura Legend 6spd (sold)
    1991 Toyota Camry (given away, perished)
    1987 Toyota Tercel Hatchback 5spd (given away, perished)

  10. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    2,173
    On occasion someone will report less satisfactory shift/shudder characteristics with MaxLife vs DW-1. Most times it is the other way around where people like the MaxLife better, but not always.
    30 year career of car sales and related industry - Part Time Detailer
    2006 EX-L Slate Green Metallic - Purchased new Dec 2005, totaled May 2013 at 166K
    2007 EX-L NAV RES Slate Green Metallic - purchased May 2013 with 113K now 200K+

  11. #9
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    L.A.
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by pkrface View Post
    On occasion someone will report less satisfactory shift/shudder characteristics with MaxLife vs DW-1. Most times it is the other way around where people like the MaxLife better, but not always.
    Ahh, thanks for the input pkrface. I hope that's all it is and I didn't f*ck something up somehow. I had read several of those positive MaxLife posts so thought I'd give it a try this time around. I guess I'll try going back to the Honda stuff next time.
    2006 Silver Ex L with 100k
    new transmission
    1999 Suburban K2500 454

    2004 Scion xB 5spd (sold)
    2006 Scion xA 5spd (sold)
    2001 Ford Expedition 5.4 (sold and missed)
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder (sold)
    1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 (totaled)
    1977 K5 Blazer 350, 6" suspension lift (sold)
    1994 Acura Legend 6spd (sold)
    1991 Toyota Camry (given away, perished)
    1987 Toyota Tercel Hatchback 5spd (given away, perished)

  12. #10
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    717
    I’m a firm believer in the 3X drain and fill procedure. Why not try it? I just don’t follow the thinking of always running some old dirty oil in the thing. Yes I know the theory but for. A van exhibiting the shudder I wouldn’t waste my time doing a single drain and fill.

  13. #11
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    L.A.
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by jnissen View Post
    I’m a firm believer in the 3X drain and fill procedure. Why not try it? I just don’t follow the thinking of always running some old dirty oil in the thing. Yes I know the theory but for. A van exhibiting the shudder I wouldn’t waste my time doing a single drain and fill.
    Well the shudder only started happening after this last drain and fill. I've actually done 3 drain in fills now over the last two years of so (which is under 6k miles for us).

    Ok guys, now I've got a new issue. This morning I'm getting a big old CLUNK when I put it in reverse. The van has never done this before. Is this all just because it has MaxLife in it now and simply doesn't like the stuff for some reason?

    Just warmed up the van and checked the transmission oil again - it's still on the low end and just barely covering that first hole.
    Last edited by amm888; 03-30-2019 at 02:24 PM.
    2006 Silver Ex L with 100k
    new transmission
    1999 Suburban K2500 454

    2004 Scion xB 5spd (sold)
    2006 Scion xA 5spd (sold)
    2001 Ford Expedition 5.4 (sold and missed)
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder (sold)
    1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 (totaled)
    1977 K5 Blazer 350, 6" suspension lift (sold)
    1994 Acura Legend 6spd (sold)
    1991 Toyota Camry (given away, perished)
    1987 Toyota Tercel Hatchback 5spd (given away, perished)

  14. #12
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    2,173
    First off, you do understand that a warm engine does not equal a warm transmission if you just started it up and let it sit in the driveway, right? Not giving you a hard time, just making sure you know that driving it at least a few miles is the only way a transmission will come up to operating temp. If the transmission were effectively still cold that could be why you are seeing a reading on the low side. As for a major clunk when going into reverse, does it do it when switching from reverse to drive and back and forth? Don't know if you have followed the VCM threads and the common issue of failed engine mounts, especially the "active" mount that is tasked with off-setting the extra vibration of the engine running on 3 cylinders instead of 6, but a failed mount can present clunks, vibrations, and rumbles. Could be a motor mount issue all along.
    30 year career of car sales and related industry - Part Time Detailer
    2006 EX-L Slate Green Metallic - Purchased new Dec 2005, totaled May 2013 at 166K
    2007 EX-L NAV RES Slate Green Metallic - purchased May 2013 with 113K now 200K+

  15. #13
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    L.A.
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by pkrface View Post
    First off, you do understand that a warm engine does not equal a warm transmission if you just started it up and let it sit in the driveway, right? Not giving you a hard time, just making sure you know that driving it at least a few miles is the only way a transmission will come up to operating temp. If the transmission were effectively still cold that could be why you are seeing a reading on the low side. As for a major clunk when going into reverse, does it do it when switching from reverse to drive and back and forth? Don't know if you have followed the VCM threads and the common issue of failed engine mounts, especially the "active" mount that is tasked with off-setting the extra vibration of the engine running on 3 cylinders instead of 6, but a failed mount can present clunks, vibrations, and rumbles. Could be a motor mount issue all along.
    Once the vehicle has warmed up to normal operating temperatures according to the engine temp gauge (so perhaps the transmission is still not warm enough?) after driving for a few miles, not idling, I'm reading the dip stick. I do have less than optimal motor mounts for sure, and the ECO vibrations were annoying which is why I've got a Max's VCM muzzler on. But as for the low tranny fluid, after rereading the manual, it sounds like I'm within the recommended range so I'm not too concerned with that.

    But aside from all that, these symptoms I'm having, the clunk when going into reverse and the rumble at idle are brand new (or at least now highly amplified) as of dumping and refilling the transmission with some MaxLife. The clunk is only when going into R from either P or D and is not noticeable when going from R back to D. All symptoms ease up quite a bit once the van has warmed up.

    But again, my issue is/question is why did all this start happening (or become far more noticeable) just from my drain and fill with MaxLife? Could it simply be that my transmission really doesn't like Valvoline? My previous two drain and fills using Honda stuff went smoothly.
    2006 Silver Ex L with 100k
    new transmission
    1999 Suburban K2500 454

    2004 Scion xB 5spd (sold)
    2006 Scion xA 5spd (sold)
    2001 Ford Expedition 5.4 (sold and missed)
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder (sold)
    1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 (totaled)
    1977 K5 Blazer 350, 6" suspension lift (sold)
    1994 Acura Legend 6spd (sold)
    1991 Toyota Camry (given away, perished)
    1987 Toyota Tercel Hatchback 5spd (given away, perished)

  16. #14
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    717
    It takes almost 20 miles of driving to get my transmission temp up to normal. No way can you get it up to temp at idle. The engine warms up significantly faster. If you have an OBDII device that can interface to your phone you can do a little research and configure the TORQUE App or EngineLink App to show transmission temp. The Bluetooth adapters are low cost but if your using an Apple phone use the WiFi version (bit more costly but works).

    Can the clunk be related to your low cost axles you just installed? I don't have any experience with the MaxLife as I only use the DW1 fluid and have since new. It seems to work as I am at 200K miles and still ticking.

  17. #15
    Registered User MrRangerZr1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,307
    I am LOOSING my mind over my trans fluid. Can't decided between ATF-DW1 or Maxlife. Van is at 34k miles now, still under warranty. I don't care about so called warranty but God forbid if the trans gives me any problem then warranty can be voided if I have maxlife in there, you know how these dealerships are. The ATF doesn't even have 10k miles and the shudder is back, drives and sounds horrible. I did a single drain and fill 10k miles ago. Do you guys think I should switch to 100% maxlife or what? This 2017 van has the worst transmission out of all of the odysseys I owned. I do drive the heck out of it lol but my 2010 dyno tuned van is taking the same abuse with no problems, I am running ATF-DW1 in that one.

  18. Remove Advertisements
    OdyClub.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Transmission drain plug drip after drain and Fill
    By avtech in forum 2011 - 2017 Odyssey
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 06-26-2018, 05:59 PM
  2. New owner: First Oil Change When? And ATF Drain & Fill?
    By gcretro in forum 2011 - 2017 Odyssey
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 02-27-2017, 10:38 PM
  3. Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill: 3 or 3.5 Quarts?
    By BLACKODDY in forum Periodic Maintenance
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 08-02-2016, 06:23 PM
  4. Transmission fluid drain & fill from & to dip-stick hole
    By ickim66 in forum 2005 - 2010 Odyssey
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 07-03-2013, 03:23 PM
  5. Replies: 13
    Last Post: 01-25-2007, 03:14 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.2