2005 Sliding Door Issues
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Thread: 2005 Sliding Door Issues

  1. #1
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    2005 Sliding Door Issues

    My 2005 EXL has the typical sliding door problem that seems to be common on this age of auto. The estimate for repair is approx. $500.00 per door. My question....Can the cables on the doors be released or disconnected so as to open and close manually? The manual movement of the doors in their present condition is extremely hard to open and close. The removal of Fuse #7 only allows one cycle of the doors and the "Slide Door" light comes on again. The van is a terrific running car with a lot of usable mileage left in its use. I don't have the money for a "whistle and bell" repair if it can function like the vans of years ago when they first came on the market, meaning manual sliding doors. Cost versus Benefit is important to me. Any advice pro or con would be appreciated. Thanks.

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    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Trying to make them manual doors does not work out well. Even if you do, the problem you describe can actually cause a parasitic draw (usually around 400mA,) causing your battery to drain if the car isn't driven for a few days.

    You're best off to just replace the door latch that (hopefully) they are recommending you replace.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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    You can certainly make they manual. I have done this to a '03 ex and and '07 EX-L. Works just fine and is not an issue for closing for the family, in fact we like it better as they close faster and smoother. There are different options to making it manual. I cut the cables on mine, had them retract and turned the door switch off. In regards to the latch hanging and having a draw. There is lube it, go in and replace / fix it and in may case, what we found is that just making the doors manual and having the ability to pace the closing rate (soft to slam) has allowed us to close the door with the right strength so that it latches almost everytime and there is no draw.

    So, if you are OK with the manual, maybe detach the cables first (this is reversible). If this works for you, you can go with it and see how the doors operate, or go further or dig into the door itself. As you indicate, you hate to lost the van for the doors when the rest of it is work well. If you can't get it to work in manual, you can fall back on fixing the doors or paying to have them fixed.

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    John

    Quote Originally Posted by John Clark View Post
    Trying to make them manual doors does not work out well. Even if you do, the problem you describe can actually cause a parasitic draw (usually around 400mA,) causing your battery to drain if the car isn't driven for a few days.

    You're best off to just replace the door latch that (hopefully) they are recommending you replace.


    Thank you for your response. I will take your information under advisement. Thanks, again.

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    cahaak, Thank you for your information. After I detach (not cut) the cables, do I activate the dashboard switch and/or the key fob so as to retract the cables? Without cutting any wiring of the door switch, will the power door locks and power windows still work? Can I create slack in the cables while the door hinge remains in place so as to detach the cables from the door hinge? Sorry to ask so many questions, but the Dealership advised that the doors would fall off along side of the road if the cables were cut or detached. That was meant to be a SCARE TACTIC in an attempt to sell the replacement of all the parts and labor necessary for the shop repair. Thanks, again.

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    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cahaak View Post
    You can certainly make they manual. I have done this to a '03 ex and and '07 EX-L. Works just fine and is not an issue for closing for the family, in fact we like it better as they close faster and smoother. There are different options to making it manual. I cut the cables on mine, had them retract and turned the door switch off. In regards to the latch hanging and having a draw. There is lube it, go in and replace / fix it and in may case, what we found is that just making the doors manual and having the ability to pace the closing rate (soft to slam) has allowed us to close the door with the right strength so that it latches almost everytime and there is no draw.

    So, if you are OK with the manual, maybe detach the cables first (this is reversible). If this works for you, you can go with it and see how the doors operate, or go further or dig into the door itself. As you indicate, you hate to lost the van for the doors when the rest of it is work well. If you can't get it to work in manual, you can fall back on fixing the doors or paying to have them fixed.
    What's the point of disconnecting the cables and then going in to fix the latch, which is the cause of the automatic function not working? As I stated, you might as well just go in and fix the latch and then still have the auto doors and no battery draw overnight.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black-Totaled
    2012 VW Passat-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

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    John

    Quote Originally Posted by John Clark View Post
    What's the point of disconnecting the cables and then going in to fix the latch, which is the cause of the automatic function not working? As I stated, you might as well just go in and fix the latch and then still have the auto doors and no battery draw overnight.


    I don't have a latch issue. All i want to do is to change the electric power feature of the passenger doors to a manual function due to a malfunction in the operation of the power system of the doors. In the manual mode the doors are way too hard to open and close. It is my opinion that if the cables can be eliminated the doors will operate the same as if the van was of 1985 vintage and I can forego the cost of about a thousand dollars repair which I don't need and can't justify.

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    Quote Originally Posted by faacharlie View Post
    I don't have a latch issue. All i want to do is to change the electric power feature of the passenger doors to a manual function due to a malfunction in the operation of the power system of the doors. In the manual mode the doors are way too hard to open and close. It is my opinion that if the cables can be eliminated the doors will operate the same as if the van was of 1985 vintage and I can forego the cost of about a thousand dollars repair which I don't need and can't justify.
    You do have a latch issue. That's the source of the problem in the operation of the power system of the doors. The "Slide Door" light is most likely a code for the base position switch, located in the rear sliding door latch. That code will often manifest itself along with a parasitic battery draw of 400mA. It's not enough to drain your battery overnight but after a couple or three days it will.

    Again, I highly suggest repairing the door latch rather than trying to get around the symptom that will likely rear its head again later, making your time spent going to manual doors a wasted effort.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black-Totaled
    2012 VW Passat-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

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    I know it does not seem intuitively obvious that your door symptoms are caused by a bad door latch module, but that is the likely cause and fix. A new door latch module is only about $200.
    2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L
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    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    I totally understand the desire to be done with the auto and go to manual doors. If it wasn't for the possibility of having to go in and fix the problem anyway, just for another reason, I'd be all for removing the cables and going manual.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black-Totaled
    2012 VW Passat-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

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    I bought my '04 nearly 6 months ago and 3 weeks later the driver's side sliding door did not want to close although I managed to get it shut. Now the first thing I did when I got the car was to take out the 2nd row seats since I did not need them because the front passenger seat is all I would ever need and the back is entirely open. I'd read of the various sliding door issues and the expense in fixing them (something I wouldn't be doing myself) so I decided upon a simple and cost free solution--I don't use them. I shut them off and when I need to go in the back I'll go through the rear. It works for me and when your retired and your monthly income is just over $1000, the price is right.

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    If the rollers need replaced on the door, it will still be difficult to use door manually. I looked at some youtube videos and replaced mine myself without too much trouble. Mine had gotten so bad that it was almost impossible to even open and close them manually. They kept getting jammed.

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    John,I recently had a cable break on my drivers side sliding door. I replaced the whole closer unit and the door isn't working at all. I also am getting the battery drain after a couple of days. Do you think that even though I replace the closer that I may still have a problem with the door latch module which would cause the door to not operate correctly? Thanks for your help.

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