Help! 05 EX-L: Vehicle vibrates shudders at 2k RPM, 60-70rpm. Is that mount or VCM
  1. Welcome to Honda Odyssey Forum : Odyssey Minivan Forums – General discussion forum for Honda Odyssey

    Welcome to Honda Odyssey Forum : Odyssey Minivan Forums - a website dedicated to all things Honda Odyssey.

    You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, Join Honda Odyssey Forum : Odyssey Minivan Forums today!
     
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Help! 05 EX-L: Vehicle vibrates shudders at 2k RPM, 60-70rpm. Is that mount or VCM

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Posts
    9

    Help! 05 EX-L: Vehicle vibrates shudders at 2k RPM, 60-70rpm. Is that mount or VCM

    I bought this 05 EX-L Odyssey used at 86k miles from original owner who had down all regular maintenance at honda.

    It was all fine until we hit 100k miles. Power steering pump went out 2x, a/c compressor went out.

    Check engine light came on - P0420. It came on a year ago and would go out for a few months before coming back. Mechanic replaced one oxygen sensor....but problem still came back. Now check engine light is on almost all the time but will shut off once in a while then come back. I actually do not notice any loss in power at all. Van drives fine without any rattling either.

    I have noticed the check engine light come on several times when the VCM ECO sign kicked on. Of course, after check engine light kicks on, the VCM ECO shuts off. So maybe I'm just noticing the ECO shut off when check engine light comes on, as opposed to VCM ECO triggering check engine light to come on.

    Separately, or unrelated, I'm not sure....I have this shudder/vibrating coming from under hood somewhere when I'm driving around freeway at 2k rpm, especially between 60-70 mph. At first, I thought it was unbalanced wheel or brakes, but if I shift into D3, or lower gear (so I rev higher), but maintain exact same speed, the vibrate/shudder goes away. I can reproduce this every time - making it go away by kicking into different gear but keeping same speed.

    I also thought it was related to VCM. The ECO light would come on when that vibrate/shudder happened....however, with my check engine light on most of the time now, doesn't that disable the VCM? I still have the vibrate/shudder happening at 2k rpm, 60-70 mph.

    Or is this bad cat (0420 code) causing this?

    I just read all this stuff about VCM. I was going to try that svcm or whatever VCM muzzler you guys recommend. WIth i eck engine light on though, isn't VCM disabled? Or could a bad mount still be electronically engaged with VCM disabled, causing that shudder at 2k rpm?


    We've only driven van 24k miles since we bought it used 7 years ago - so I'm disappointed with everything falling apart at 100k miles. I think we paid $16k for it 7 years ago too.

    I just paid $1k to replace a/c. We did timing belt/water pump and belts for $1800 a couple years ago. Then we replaced all the brake rotors and pads too.

    I'm just wondering if it is worth trying to salvage the van at this point?

    If I have to replace cat or if the engine is bad, I dont want to put too much money into it. I'd rather buy a replacement van as we have young kids. (Or should I try replacing the 2nd oxygen sensor? I think the mechanic only replaced 1 sensor on the bank....not sure which one).

    I'm also burning 1 quart of oil every 800 miles. The sliding doors are popping like crazy. I need 3 new tires soon too.

    I need to do spark plugs and valve adjustment soon too. I guess there is one engine mount bad too as I hear a thump/thud sometimes if I accelerate fast.

    I would appreciate all your thoughts and recommendations. I'm not sure what to do - whether to trade in van or sell it. It still drives fine or well actually - aside from the vibrating.

    thanks

  2. Remove Advertisements
    OdyClub.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Registered User Odyssey.owner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    861
    Burning oil, 0420 code, vibration.. All these symptoms are caused by un-muzzled ( not disabled ) VCM.


    You can try to install VCM muzzler ( search it here, or google it ) , and see what happens. Sometimes it helps to reverse the damage.

    Also, I would replace spark plugs, and catalytic converters ( or beat them out + install spacers for downstream O2 sensors ), because most likely they are already clogged with carbon deposits. At least take a look what's going on there.
    2010 Odyssey EX RES Canadian
    Bought @130K with preexisting trans problems
    DIYs:
    1.Timing belt with all related parts ( Continental kit ) + drive belt tensioner
    2. B&A Passenger side engine mount.
    3. Complete ATF change, DW1
    4. ATF changed to Valvoline MaxLife - slippage gone!
    5. Low beam bulbs replaced with 9012 HIR2. Twice more light!
    6. B&A control arms
    7. CENTRIC 12040064/12040065 Rotors, Akebono ProACT pads
    8. Magnefine ATF filter
    9. Lubegard Shudder Fix - better shifting

  4. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Posts
    9
    Thanks! HOwever, the thing that is confusing me, with the 0420 cat check engine light on, the VCM ECO light doesn't come on any more, presumably because it is disabled.

    I still get that vibrate/shudder at 2k rpm, 60-70 mph. I thought it was unbalanced wheel or brake at first - but if I switch to lower gear to rev higher, it makes the vibration go away every time.

    If ECO light is not on (as check engine light is on due to 0420 code), how can VCM be the cause of it?

    Or can VCM still engage with the check engine light on?

    Is the electrically controlled engine mount only activated when VCM is engaged? Can that mount still be switched on and off even though VCM is disabled?

    If VCM is still likely culprit, then I'll give one of those VCM disablers a go. I just don't know which one to buy - too many options now lol!

    I just dont want to invest too much if it is a more serious problem (like engine failure). I still need to fix the cat, fix sliding door pops, get new engine mount, do valve adjustment and plugs, get 3 new tires.

    I just put $3k into van 2 years ago. I'm beginning to get a sour taste lol! Once we hit 100k, everything started to go - one after another.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    OdyClub.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio
    Posts
    832
    You're not understanding.... Your issue now has nothing to do with VCM engaging or not. The symptoms occur now regardless if VCM is active or not. Your issue was caused by damage that was done over many years of VCM engaging. The damage has already been done. The VCM muzzler devices prevent this damage from occurring by ensuring that VCM never engages. Your current vibration and shudder issues now appear regardless if the engine is operating on 3 or 6 cylinders because of the past damage when operating on 3 cylinders with VCM engaged. In summary, VCM causes the issue, but the issue now appears with or without VCM engaged. A $100 VCM muzzler device likely would have prevented this from happening. You should still install a muzzler device, as there is a chance some of the symptoms could improve over time with VCM permanently muzzled. Good luck.

    BTW, it is possible that your vibration and shudder is not engine related at all, but could be bad CV axles, or something else. The VCM-caused symptoms are usually misfires, excessive oil consumption, and prematurely worn or failed engine mounts.
    Last edited by thscott; 04-15-2019 at 03:09 PM.
    2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L
    110,000 miles

  7. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Posts
    9
    Thanks the scott! I understand what you are saying about the VCM already causing damage (like burning oil, bad mount, etc), but if it is the bad engine mount, then shouldn't the vibration shudder issue be all the time?

    Why does it only happen during certain conditions - like 60-70 mph at 2k rpm, then shudder goes away if I rev higher maintaining same speed by dropping down a gear.

    Sorry I'm a bit clueless when it comes to this. I'm just worried its my transmission that is having issues or its a major issue - then I would rather trade in van or get rid of it while it still drives instead of investing more into it.

    When I kick into lower gear when it happens, shudder goes away. The prior owner changed the transmission fluid at 30k, 60k, then I changed it myself at 90k. It is clean not dirty...but I'm at 110k now, so I can change it again.

    I just read something on bad torque converter, that seems like similar symptoms. Is that a possibility? Or do you think it is still more likely VCM and bad engine mount?

    The 0420 cat code couldn't be related to this, correct? Sorry for all the questions....

  8. #6
    Registered User Odyssey.owner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    861
    Quote Originally Posted by caodyssey76 View Post
    I just read something on bad torque converter, that seems like similar symptoms. Is that a possibility? Or do you think it is still more likely VCM and bad engine mount?

    The 0420 cat code couldn't be related to this, correct? Sorry for all the questions....
    Could be bad trans as well.

    I would start from checking mounts, see if they are torn apart, replace if they are bad. You can use cheaper mounts from LX, DX, EX Odyssey, but you'll need a bracket for rear mount AND VCM muzzler.

    Next step would be VCM muzzler and new spark plugs.

    Gotta do something with cat converters, cheapest would be to beat them out. Check if they are clogged first. The rear one, between engine and firewall most often goes bad, because of VCM.


    Also you are due for TB job.


    All that will cost around $1000+ , if you DIY.
    2010 Odyssey EX RES Canadian
    Bought @130K with preexisting trans problems
    DIYs:
    1.Timing belt with all related parts ( Continental kit ) + drive belt tensioner
    2. B&A Passenger side engine mount.
    3. Complete ATF change, DW1
    4. ATF changed to Valvoline MaxLife - slippage gone!
    5. Low beam bulbs replaced with 9012 HIR2. Twice more light!
    6. B&A control arms
    7. CENTRIC 12040064/12040065 Rotors, Akebono ProACT pads
    8. Magnefine ATF filter
    9. Lubegard Shudder Fix - better shifting

  9. #7
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    10,212
    Slow down here, everyone. The timing belt was done. No need for timing belt.

    It sounds like the question right now is what's causing the vibration? It could be motor mounts or it could be CV axles. There's no way for us to know. You'd need to get someone to diagnose it.

    Yes, VCM is disabled when the check engine light is on so the vibration is not caused directly by VCM but it could be an indirect cause if the motor mounts are worn out (VCM likely caused the mounts to wear out.)

    If the mounts are bad, and you want to go with the much less expensive standard, non-active, motor mounts, you will need to disable VCM 100% of the time. Currently, the only devices that do this are the S-VCM and the VCMTunerII. I personally prefer the VCMTunerII but either will do the job. You just don't want VCM to kick on, even for a brief time, with standard motor mounts, and the VCMuzzler doesn't disable VCM 100% of the time, only most of the time.

    Your P0420 code is likely caused by the oil burning that's been going on, and caused by, yes again, VCM. Installing the VCMTunerII (or S-VCM or VCMuzzler, etc.) gives a good chance of reversing the oil burning but will not fix the damaged catalytic converter. When I have a catalytic converter code, I prefer to first replace both O2 sensors on that bank and if the code comes back it's time for a cat. You need to replace both the upstream and downstream on that bank (not just one) and they need to be either NTK or Denso sensors--no other brand.

    Sliding door pops/sticks: I just fixed one of these today for a customer. It's caused by the release actuator not fully releasing the latches before the sliding door motor starts to move the door. The fix is to remove the door panel, remove and either replace the unlatching actuator or take it part, clean it, re-lube it, and put it back together. I cleaned and lubed the one I worked on today and it all worked fine when done. If you haven't replaced the rear rollers this is a good time as they are usually worn out by 100K if you have kids. I replaced both of those on the van I worked on today, too.
    Last edited by John Clark; 04-15-2019 at 08:07 PM.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black-Totaled
    2012 VW Passat-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

  10. Remove Advertisements
    OdyClub.com
    Advertisements
     

Similar Threads

  1. Metal rattling noise around 2K rpm
    By wrightcomputing in forum 2005 - 2010 Odyssey
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 03-12-2014, 01:55 PM
  2. idle jumps 1k to 2k rpm constant
    By jojo_g in forum 1999 - 2004 Odyssey
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 01-27-2010, 03:48 PM
  3. 2003 Ody vibrates between 55 mph and 60 mph
    By tklee in forum 1999 - 2004 Odyssey
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 11-17-2009, 02:05 PM
  4. Steering wheel shudders/vibrates
    By Ody2001Owner in forum 1999 - 2004 Odyssey
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-30-2009, 10:14 AM
  5. RPM's not shifting from 2K upwards
    By rjoshi in forum Problems and Concerns
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-17-2003, 12:47 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.2