Solenoid A and D
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Thread: Solenoid A and D

  1. #1
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    Solenoid A and D

    I have a 2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L and the codes that come up are P0974 and P0983 which indictes circuits high in Solenoids A and D. Ive tested all the solenoids and they come back at the correct rating so the solenoids are not bad at all. It could be the wires but I want to ask what other solutions there could be before I go forward with anything drastic. Also I bought this car with a misfire and did a valve job to fix it myself and it didnt give me any codes before that but once I turned on the car after it was fixed it gave me those codes if that helps at all.

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    Registered User celicool's Avatar
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    Before you do anything drastic, I would first check the ATF level and change out the fluid if its condition warrants it. Then, reset the code and hope that it doesn't come back.
    2007 Honda Odyssey Touring 218K Miles
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    Already checked it, it is absolutely a wiring issue no doubt about it, when I delete the codes the D light stops flashing for a millisecond and then comes back. If it was mechanical t would take some more time.

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    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Which solenoids did you check? The solenoids you're getting codes for are internal to the transmission. You have to pull the end cover off to access them. There is a connector, C153, just below the front bolt that holds on the lifting eye for the transmission, that you can use to check continuity and do voltage checks on them. That's where the connector is for the solenoids A-D. The solenoids get their ground from the transmission case and the power comes from the PCM. The easiest way to check these is with a bidirectional scan tool that can turn them on and off and a test light.

    You're correct, though, this is an electrical issue. Either your solenoids are open, you have a wiring issue (there is only one wire per solenoid,) or your PCM is bad. Those are the only options. If I had to guess, I'd say you damaged some wiring while working on the rear valve cover. The engine harness runs across there and makes it difficult to access the rear cover. Did you unplug the engine wiring harness from the transmission anywhere? The only way to know, though, is to check for voltage coming from the PCM, when commanded on, at the solenoid connector C153.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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    Thanks for your response John! I used an electromagnetic tool to test all the wires by sending power through them and found no bad wires, so I believe the PCM is having trouble so I am going to get it updated

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    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeekay View Post
    Thanks for your response John! I used an electromagnetic tool to test all the wires by sending power through them and found no bad wires, so I believe the PCM is having trouble so I am going to get it updated
    No....I wouldn't bother with that. A software update is not likely to fix it. Can you be a bit more detailed on what you did and what you've tested? If you sent power through the wires from the PCM connector, and the solenoids click, then your wiring is OK. I would still be concerned about a short to ground on the wires somewhere between the PCM and the solenoids. Even if the short is now gone, the short could have fried the output drivers (transistors) in the PCM that turn on the solenoids and the PCM will need replacing. While a new PCM will fix it (if the transistors are cooked,) my biggest concern would be where is/was the short and will it happen again with a new PCM. You need to get to the bottom of it and find out why this happened before replacing the PCM. Did you pinch a wire harness somewhere?

    This is where a bidirectional scan tool comes in handy. You simply use the tool to activate each solenoid. Are you able to feed power to each of the solenoids at the connector C153? That will test each solenoid to verify they're working. Then I'd do the same thing on the same wires at the PCM connector. You will need a wiring diagram for this.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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    Thanks for your response John, I did more tests on the PCM and concluded there is nothing wrong with the PCM at all. Wires are perfectly fine. Basically all you should know is that every possible obvious reason for these two solenoids being open, I have proved wrong, so there is something indirectly causing the solenoids to go bad and I need to find what it is. Solenoids were tested, theyre good. I have electrical tools, but it seems as if Honda made something else that turns off the solenoids but it isnt popping up on the codes

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    I would suggest carefully going through and check your fuses. I had the D flashing on mine and other codes. It turned out to be the #18 fuse was missing. Also, cat sensor codes showing due to another fuse missing. I don't know how, unless accidently misplaced. fixing fuses corrected all problems on 07 EX-L.

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    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeekay View Post
    Thanks for your response John, I did more tests on the PCM and concluded there is nothing wrong with the PCM at all. Wires are perfectly fine. Basically all you should know is that every possible obvious reason for these two solenoids being open, I have proved wrong, so there is something indirectly causing the solenoids to go bad and I need to find what it is. Solenoids were tested, theyre good. I have electrical tools, but it seems as if Honda made something else that turns off the solenoids but it isnt popping up on the codes
    How did you determine the PCM is NOT at fault? Without a bidirectional scan tool I don't know how you could possibly know that.

    Second, I don't quite follow your post. You first state "there is something indirectly causing the solenoids to go bad" but then you say in the next sentence "solenoids were tested, they're good." So, are the solenoids good or bad?

    There are only three possible failures...a wiring issue (including power and ground sides,) a solenoid issue, or a PCM issue. Have you checked all your grounds? The ground is made through the transmission case. Did you maybe leave off a ground wire somewhere that is causing the solenoid circuits to intermittently open?
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black-Totaled
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    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

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    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    My suggestion is to identify each of the solenoid wires at the PCM. Unplug the PCM connector, and use a fused jumper wire to feed power from the PCM connector to each of the solenoids and see if the solenoid clicks. That simulates what the PCM does to turn them on. If it clicks then the PCM is at fault. I would then check powers and grounds to the PCM. If it doesn't click then the wiring, solenoid, or solenoid ground is at fault.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black-Totaled
    2012 VW Passat-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

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    Already did everything you stated John, I even checked all the fuses and tested them with my device, all the fuses are good.

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    and John when I say something is indirectly causing them to go bad it just means that this diagnosis is not obvious, solenoids are good they are not bad. I know the pcm is good because I have tested each wire individually, a bidirectional tool makes life easy, it isnt the only thing that can tell if a pcm is good
    Last edited by zeekay; 04-21-2019 at 04:56 PM.

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    Maxivan thank you for your response, I have already checked fuse 18, did you have the same codes as I did?

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    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeekay View Post
    and John when I say something is indirectly causing them to go bad it just means that this diagnosis is not obvious, solenoids are good they are not bad. I know the pcm is good because I have tested each wire individually, a bidirectional tool makes life easy, it isnt the only thing that can tell if a pcm is good
    Testing each wire individually only tells you that the wiring BETWEEN the PCM and the solenoid is good. It doesn't tell you that the PCM is functioning to turn on the solenoids as it's supposed to. If the computer can sense an open on the circuit (as indicated by the codes you're getting) that would tell me that there may be a bias voltage on the wire. You should be able to use a volt meter, and with the C153 connector unplugged and the key on, see if there is any voltage on each of the wires. Check a known good solenoid (B or C) and see if there is voltage on the wire. This "bias voltage" may show on a meter but won't light a test light. It's how the computer knows if the circuit is open or shorted in order to set the codes.

    If you can use a fused jumper wire and operate the solenoids from the PCM connector that tells me your PCM is the problem. I suspect either a power or ground issue to the PCM or a bad PCM.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black-Totaled
    2012 VW Passat-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

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    John Marks I have already done everything you have stated above and everything was fine, I found the problem to be a disconnected pressure switch that somehow caused these codes to come up, I dont understand how it happened but Im glad it is fixed now. Thank you for your help

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