2011 Passenger Sliding Door Cable Fix - Page 6
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Thread: 2011 Passenger Sliding Door Cable Fix

  1. #76
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    The ebay solderless kit I used was 74 1/4 and 63 3/4 to the center of the stop on the door side without the inner solderless ferrules attached. Those ferrules were 5/16" long. Tension seemed very good, not too tight but not hanging at all. You may be trying to get one more loop on it and it is not needed.


    Quote Originally Posted by lostoften View Post
    Well, tried 74 7/8" and 64" and still ended up too short. I took the motor out and put everything back together. Manual on driver side automatic on the other. White flag raised, at-least until I get too annoyed hearing my wife complain.

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  3. #77
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    Just replaced the slider motor on my 2011 Odyssey with a Honda Factory replacement motor from www.hondapartsnow.com.

    Total cost was $407.35 delivered and they included the center roller, which is supposed to be an additional $200-300. Whole job took me about 2-3 hrs and I am not a mechanic. I have basic tools and did it in 30 deg temps. I say this only to encourage others to give this a try and save the $700 or $800.

    My motor was fine, but for the $400 parts, I figured I'd rather just replace the whole setup rather than mess with the cables. If anyone is interested in my motor, use sell it very cheap. Let me know.

  4. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncnmra View Post
    So I attempted this fix last night on my DRIVER's SIDE door and I believe I have had success.

    The information from the forum and the videos I've seen online was EXTREMEY useful. I wanted to film and post a start-to-finsih video showing the 4th gen work required, but I initially wanted to just have a pre-emptive look at what I'd be facing....one thing led to another and I ended up doing the entire job last night. Overall I don't think it was too hard, and time will tell if the fix holds, but here are some of my notes:

    BIGGEST NOTE: The length of the cables is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL. I would say to a 1/8" critical. I used 63.5" for the BACK and 74.5" for the FRONT. This distance is from END-to-END including all cable stops, etc. Even in my case, because I lost about 1/4" to my attachment method, I had a VERY hard time reassembling the spindle and tensioners. If you use my method, you may want to add 1/8" on each side.


    1. You do NOT need to take out the tailliight to remove the side trim piece (at least not in my 2015 EX). Make sure you have the right TORX bit to remove the two bolts above the taillight, and then remove the screw from behind the door. Then you only need to PULL the trim piece back to detatch from the latches.
    2. Removal of the seatbelts was not required. I was able to remove the interior trim by starting at the back (removing the cargo net bolts and then pulling the back plate straight UP. Then I worked on the side, using a flashlight to see how the clips interlocked. The upper trim snaps into the lower trim using integrated plastic clips that come easily undone if you bend them slightly while pulling on the side piece. In my case, I have the EX-RES, so disconnecting the 12V adapter in the back and the audio/video controls was necessary, and easy just by pushing on the clips that hold the connectors on. The side rocker trim beside the door came off by pulling UP, but I recommend to anchor the back portion and SWING it up, since there are some latches that integrate into the side trim in the back. If you pull STRAIGHT up, you may bend/break these.
    3. The motor spindle needs to be accessed by unscrewing the 5 smaller plastic screws, and then the two larger bolts that hold the spindle cover on. Take note of how the tensioners are installed, as mine fell out promptly after I had removed the cover.
    4. I used the parts linked to below. The wire cable was the perfect diameter, and the cable stops fit perfectly into the door roller assembly. My main concern at this point was how to terminate both ends of the cable so that the stops do not come out. I have read about using cable ferrules, but I couldn't locate any. In the mean time, I bought a ferrule tool with assorted ferrules. These are intented for electrical connections, however after some expermients, I found a way to terminate the spindle end of the cable which appeared to offer addequate strength.
      1. I removed about 1" of the plastic coating, and used a small ferrule to terminate the end, with the excess sticking out the top. (I removed the plastic part of the ferrules, so it was just the metal). I then BENT BACK the excess wire, overtop of the first ferrule, and applied the second one. This created a long (about 1/4") rectangular stop.
      2. The OEM cables had small square ferrules at the end, which would sit in the grove on the outside of the spindle to anchor the wire into it. In my case, the rectangular stop that I created was too long. HOWEVER, there is a hole that extends through the center of the spindle, and the rectangular stop fits perfectly through this hole. The result is that the stop sits axially through the spindle, and then the cable bends at the the access point and extends out through the top of the spindle. This COULD possibly be a weak point for the cable, however, in my vice vs yank test, it held up very well. Time will tell.

    5. I ran the wires from the inside to the outside. Ensure that you run the wire through each tesnioner, otherwise you'll need to backtrack (like I did). Running the wire required removal of the plastic/rubber grommet pieces so that I could feed the wire through the small rubber hole in the grommet.
    6. I terminated the door bracket side once the cables were outside the vehicle. I did this by removing a minimum amount of coating, and using the cable stops. NOTE: I did NOT use the screws provided because I found them to be too long, and with the phillips head, I could not get enough torque to really tighten them. I ended up cutting some 8/32 bolts with a Robertson (square) head so that I could really torque them. In fact, one of the heads ended up breaking off when I applied it, which conveniently created a really nice flat seal....again, we'll see how long it holds up.
    7. Position the wires on the outside such that they fall roughly where you removed the door slider. Reattach the slider, and reattach the door.
    8. The hardest part was reassembling the spindle and tensioners. I found the trick to be to wind the spindle COMPLETELY from both sides, until the wire is on the same rung on opposite sides. Then, run each end of the wire around to the bottom of the spindle, pinch it with two fingers so that it doesn't pop out, and position the spindle. I did NOT find a way to tension/detension it like appeared in the older models. The nut on the spindle simply keeps it tight against the motor.
    9. With the spindle installed, I needed help to install the tensioners. In my case I think my cable was a TAD too short so it required a great deal of compression on each tensioner. 1/4" more cable would have been perfect, but I'm not sure if it may stretch a bit, and/or perhaps tightens up on the spindle after a few uses.
    10. Re-installing the tensioners was the most annoying. I needed help installing them. I installed the FRONT tensioner first, and compressed it fully. While my wife held it in place (tensioned), I fully compressed the back tensioner, and with some slight of hand and swear words, was able to pop it in while also ensuring that the cable sleeve was in the correct slot.
    11. I did not want to risk actuating the door without the motor cover off. I found the tensioners to be very finicky, so I didn't want to risk them popping out.
    12. I installed the cover, crossed my fingers, started the car and hit CLOSE. IT worked beautfully. I tried a few times, and also on our (steepish) driveway. So far so good. We will see how it holds up over the long run. I can see the cable stops and my termination method at the spindle being the weak points.


    !!!!! CAUTION !!!!!: Be very careful if you need to reposition the door itself. At one point, I wanted to slide it forward slightly. Because it was "latched" position in the furthest most back position, I struggled to get it moving. In doing so, I must have angled it so that the TOP ROLLER came OUT of it's rail. This was a panic moment and I needed to call in help immediately. It was a chore to get the top roller back into the rail because there is a very small section towards the back where the top rail has a slight opening that allows the roller to pass into when the door is angled. I was able use the jack to slowly lower/raise it to get it right into this position. The door could easily have fallen out causing huge damage. so BE CAREFUL!


    NOTE: the crimper I bought for work stuff anyway....there may be better termination methods, I'm not entirely sure.

    I really wish I videoed the whole thing, but if anyone has any particular questions, I can take some after the fact video/photos to help explain. I will update after a few weeks with how it is holding up.

    PS: I applied liberal amounts of lithium grease to the rollers and cable along the way. I also intend to coat the outside section of the exposed cable/cable stops with "Fluid Film" to protect the cable and screws I used on the stops.

    Hello. Well I am part of the cable broken club on the passenger side. I have a 2012 odyssey exl. I did not find any videos on the 4th gen models but the 3rd gen ones were great. I went ahead and purchased the motor for $400 since I did not want to deal with the cables. But I need a sanity check here. I can not get the rear trim off. It is almost there but stuck and I do not want to just pull it off. I reviewed step 2 above and do not see the tabs that are interconnecting the top and bottom of the trim. There is a white angled piece of plastic in there that seems to be stopping me from getting out. I could try to force it out but it seems like it would snap.

    Any idea here on how to get the trim out?

    Thanks for any help.

    Dave

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  6. #79
    csi
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    Folks I need some help here!

    My 2015 EX driver side door cable snapped and I got the replacement cable from ebay. However I am having a bit of problem getting the trim pieces out.

    Any idea whether the seats need to be removed? They seems to be always in the way no matter they are in the up or down position? Also on mine there is a fuse box right in front of the cable motor. Does that have to come out as well?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by csi; 03-16-2019 at 12:54 PM.

  7. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by csi View Post
    Any idea whether the seats need to be removed? They seems to be always in the way no matter they are in the up or down position? Also on mine there is a fuse box right in front of the cable motor. Does that have to come out as well?
    Finally managed to get the trim pieces out after quite a bit of struggles. Basically I was having the same problem as Dhayes16. The problem was that the last clip that hold the top and the bottom part of the side panel.

    To release it you shouldn't pull it toward you like the others suggested. I tried doing that and the pieces didn't separate even I pulled so hard that all the clips from the floor to the ceiling were pulled out. The correct way to separate them is to push the top part toward the back of the van, and at the same time pull the bottom piece toward the front of the van, not toward you.

  8. #81
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    Looking to tackle this issue in the next couple of weeks, once the weather warms up. Cable on the left side snapped in December. Been using the door manually since then. Trying to decide to buy the ebay kit or make the cables on my own. How has everyone's cables been holding up? Any issues?

    I'm in Markham, Ontario. I read a couple of Ontario people have tackled this. Is anyone available to meet up to go a run down before i tackle.
    Thanks

  9. #82
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    Check the pulley before buying the cable replacements.

    One thing to note before buying the ebay replacement cables.... Check the condition of the pulley. I had to force the door closed to get home and then force it back open 6 inches to cut the cables. I ordered the ebay cable repair kit and then started the disassembly so that it would be a quick fix when the cables came in. On disassembly this is what I found.
    2011 Passenger Sliding Door Cable Fix-img-3489.jpg2011 Passenger Sliding Door Cable Fix-img-3491.jpg
    Apparently from moving it back and forth to get home and cut the cables, we jammed the cable in the pulley. The pulley wouldn't move and couldn't be pulled. I had to cut each loop of cable and unthread them one at a time. Long story short, once I got the pulley out, the tracks were extremely worn, chips & gaps in the tracks, and deformed areas from the cable impingement. I tried to clean it up with fine grit sandpaper, but in the end, I didn't trust the pulley to not cut the cable jacket or have the cable skip track due to the missing plastic. We ended up having to go for a new motor instead. The good news is the Ebay guys honor their return policy.

  10. #83
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    Thank you for this. Great info. From where did you end up buying a new motor assembly?

  11. #84
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    I priced them out at the various Honda parts websites. Honda parts direct was the cheapest last week.


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  12. #85
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    Mine looked the same and after 4 plus months using the ebay solderless kit it still works great using the existing assembly. The pulley system keeps the cables very tight to the drum as they wrap so I think there is a bit of leeway if they are a bit damaged.

    Quote Originally Posted by prymas13 View Post
    One thing to note before buying the ebay replacement cables.... Check the condition of the pulley. I had to force the door closed to get home and then force it back open 6 inches to cut the cables. I ordered the ebay cable repair kit and then started the disassembly so that it would be a quick fix when the cables came in. On disassembly this is what I found.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Apparently from moving it back and forth to get home and cut the cables, we jammed the cable in the pulley. The pulley wouldn't move and couldn't be pulled. I had to cut each loop of cable and unthread them one at a time. Long story short, once I got the pulley out, the tracks were extremely worn, chips & gaps in the tracks, and deformed areas from the cable impingement. I tried to clean it up with fine grit sandpaper, but in the end, I didn't trust the pulley to not cut the cable jacket or have the cable skip track due to the missing plastic. We ended up having to go for a new motor instead. The good news is the Ebay guys honor their return policy.

  13. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by prymas13 View Post
    I priced them out at the various Honda parts websites. Honda parts direct was the cheapest last week.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Does anyone have the exact part numbers required. I was on the Honda parts direct website and couldn't figure out exact part numbers. I am trying to weigh my options and figure out total cost purchasing the motor assembly and then just purchasing the ebay cables. I don't want to be tackling this job more than once if not necessary.

  14. #87
    DD.
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    Deleted double post
    Last edited by DD.; 03-28-2019 at 01:26 PM. Reason: Double post

  15. #88
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    The motor assembly is only sold as a complete unit with the cables. If you are buying the motor, you won't need eBay cables.

    R Power Slide Door Unit - Honda (72010-TK8-A12)
    L Power Slide Door Unit - Honda (72050-TK8-A12)

    https://www.hondapartsdirect.com/v-2...de-door-motors

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  16. #89
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    Thank you. Much appreciated.

  17. #90
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    I ordered mine from suburban Honda. Just came in and included a center roller as well.


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