First off I joined this site just to make this thread and contribute to other threads to share the method. I could not for the life of me find a thread who fixed a cable/motor setup like mine. I am not sure when honda changed the sliding door motors. Who wants to spend over $1000 bucks at the dealership for a whole new motor assembly when its just the stupid cable?
I used 90% of the methods described in this thread which is for a 2003 model, the other 10% is adjusting to the newer motor/cable design (big thanks to sizzlemp). I thought I would have the same setup, so seeing this DIY thread gave me confidence but things are different in at least 2011 and above.
Notes/things done different:
Interior panel removal rough steps:
- Locate all screws holding the panels in place noted below
- Take out lower panel in the very back of the vehicle (where the back seats fold down)
- Then take out flooring foot panel (youll see three screws off the floor where the door opens)
- VERY gently pull the large panel out. I damaged mine a little bending it. Oh well.
All in all it took me a half day altogether because I didn't really know what I was doing at first, but figured it out. I hope this info can help folks that run into the same problem. I also pieced together a video to really show the motor mechanism which I was desperate to see somewhere else, but also point out the above.
- DON'T buy the green coated 1/16 cable, this is slightly too thick for the cable sleeves and the pulley. I just went with the 1/16 uncoated and it seems to be holding up fine. There are probably better quality cables that are thinner and coated.
- I looped the lugs and crimped with a swaging tool, it provides a very tight crimp. I tried the other way other folks had success with but the cable got pulled out of the lugs. There are a ton of other ways to do it if your read through sizzlemps thread replies, but this way worked with what I had on hand (I dont have a solder setup, etc). This is the tool I used, its $20 from home depot: Lehigh Swaging Tool-ST18S - The Home Depot.
- The circular stop ferrule for the other end (pulley) is tricky, I had to wedge some cardboard into the swaging tool on the hole above the 1/16 to get a nice tight crimp. It takes some patience, but I got it small enough to fit into the swaging tool 1/16 hole, crimped it, and filed the rest off so it could fit inside the pulley.
- Since I used uncoated cables I put anti seize all around the pully so the cables have some form of lube. Lithium is probably better.
- I did not measure the lengths, sorry. I bought around 16 ft to be safe in case I screwed up and that turned out saving a trip back. I lined up the old cables and added about an inch and a half give or take to account for the loop at the lugs.
- I swear my motor was confused at first on its state, because hitting the close button up in the front was causing it to open and vice versa. I disconnected the negative terminal and let the whole computer reset. WARNING, make sure you have tour radio code if you unplug the battery!!
Good luck if you take this on. Its worth it, very doable and it pays off!