P0134 on 2011 Ody
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Thread: P0134 on 2011 Ody

  1. #1
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    P0134 on 2011 Ody

    I had a check engine light. Got the OBD tool and discovered P0134 code. I'm not sure if it is )O2 snsor issue, but I'm thinking it doesn't hurt to replace and hopefully solves the problem as well. I saw only one post related to this. I can be hands-on with simple-medium complexity jobs with appropriate instructions and I found the below video on how to change O2 sensors.


    Now, is it as simple as it looks? Any other advice is appreciated.

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  3. #2
    Registered User MrRangerZr1's Avatar
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    99% of the time it's the A/F ratio sensor. P0134 is the bank 1 sensor 1 sensor code, so the rear 1st sensor, closest to the firewall. Check the wiring going to the sensor for any damage.

    Note: O2 sensors are the secondary sensors and A/F sensors are the first sensors in the exhaust system.

  4. #3
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    That's a heater circuit code for the rear upstream sensor. Most likely it's an open heater in the sensor. The easiest way to check is to unplug the sensor and find the two wires to the sensor that are the same color. Those will be your heater. Check the resistance with an ohm meter. You should have somewhere in the neighborhood 12-15 ohms of resistance. That's not an exact number but a general rule. If you have OL or significantly higher (like in the k ohms range) than that then you've found your issue.
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  6. #4
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    That said, these codes can be caused by a blown fuse for the A/F heaters but usually you'll get a code for both heaters since they usually use the same fuse.
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    A 2011 Ody with XXXXX miles. Has it had the piston ring fix? Is there a muzzler product installed?

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    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by egads View Post
    A 2011 Ody with XXXXX miles. Has it had the piston ring fix? Is there a muzzler product installed?
    What does the piston ring fix have to do with an O2 heater circuit code?
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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    Context, I'm always curious about where these things are at.

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    Thank you. I didn't realize there is something called A/F sensor as well. I'm assuming whetever is being changed in the video is the A/F sensor. Where can I find the O2 sensor then. Any link to a video or picture would eb appreciated. When I opened the hood, I saw one sensor close to the license plate (downstream?). I assume that is Bank 2 Sensor 1, A/F sensor. The rear one, close to the driving wheel (Bank 1 Sensor 1) is another A/F sensor. How can I find the O2 sensors.

    Sorry if these questions sound dumb. I googled a lot and cant find any videos or pictures.

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    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bb74 View Post
    Thank you. I didn't realize there is something called A/F sensor as well. I'm assuming whetever is being changed in the video is the A/F sensor. Where can I find the O2 sensor then. Any link to a video or picture would eb appreciated. When I opened the hood, I saw one sensor close to the license plate (downstream?). I assume that is Bank 2 Sensor 1, A/F sensor. The rear one, close to the driving wheel (Bank 1 Sensor 1) is another A/F sensor. How can I find the O2 sensors.

    Sorry if these questions sound dumb. I googled a lot and cant find any videos or pictures.
    An air/fuel ratio sensor is a newer style of O2 sensor, sometimes referred to as a wide-band O2 sensor. The a/f sensor is installed upstream of the catalytic converter. Downstream of the catalytic converter is a standard narrow band O2 sensor.

    The code you are getting is for the rear air/fuel sensor (wideband O2 sensor) on the back side of the engine between the engine and the firewall, above the catalytic converter.

    The sensor you see when you open the hood, in front of the engine, is the bank 2 air/fuel ratio sensor (wideband O2 sensor) but is not the sensor you're getting a code for. The one you're looking for is in the same location but on the back side of the engine. Remove the engine cover and reach back, over the top of the rear valve cover and it's back behind there.
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    Perfect! Thank you. I'm clear now. It seems a bit hard to reach the rear A/F sensor. In a different thread, someone suggested a handheld mirror for the job so you can see clearly since it is not visible directly. I'll give it a try.

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    If you do replace it, I recommend hitting it with PB Blaster or some other penetrating fluid once a day for 2-3 days beforehand. These can be a real PITA to remove.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bb74 View Post
    Perfect! Thank you. I'm clear now. It seems a bit hard to reach the rear A/F sensor. In a different thread, someone suggested a handheld mirror for the job so you can see clearly since it is not visible directly. I'll give it a try.
    General tip, having recently done a valve adjustment on my 2011 ...

    Don't put too much faith in being able to see stuff. Maybe use the mirror and light to take a peek to get an idea what is back there and where it is. I usually find mirrors disorienting for stuff like this due to the reflection. But at some point, (as I found for myself) it became impossible until I just gave up on vision and did it all by feel. More comfortable to work that way too, since I could just rest my body on the top of the engine and rest my forehead on the cowl, making myself comfortable without needing to keep my eyes open and in a certain place.

    Maybe that won't work for you, but it sure did for me on a job in a similar area.
    2011 Odyssey LX, 106k miles
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  15. #13
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    OK, now we all have an image in our heads of oldskewel laying on top of his engine, with his eyes closed, feeling around....

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    LOL. But it's the only way to do it. Saved my back too. Vision is really not useful when doing the rear bank valve adjustment, and once you accept that, you may as well get comfortable. Cracking up now, remembering when I came to that realization.

    I don't know if the O2 sensor is similarly unhelped by vision there, but in case it is, throw in the towel and do it by feel.
    2011 Odyssey LX, 106k miles
    1999 Odyssey EX, 234k miles, original owner

  17. #15
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    I've done a few of these and don't recall them being too difficult. Don't use the deep well socket style tool with the opening up the side. Use the crows foot style and go in from over the top. That rear upstream sensor doesn't get a lot of salt and corrosion so it's not usually too bad. Your tool selection will be helpful here too. A flex head ratchet and extension comes in handy. I don't recall which tools, exactly, I used.

    I do remember that unclipping the harness clips was the hardest part of the job. They are difficult to reach and hard to release. It took me quite a while with a pick to get on them just right.
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