C-clamp style ball joint separator tool (alternative)
This is a Ball Joint Separator tool that can be used as an alternative to the $400 07MAC-SL00100 tool from Honda, but it REQUIRES you first remove the front axle in order to use it. Otherwise there is not enough room for the tool to fit. If this is an option for you, then this may be worth your time.
First, the tool…
http://shop.ktcautotools.com/collections/audi-vw-tools/products/audi-a4-a6-a8-ball-joint-separator
I purchased mine on here for $29.99:
28mm Audi VW Ball Joint Tie Rod End Separator Remover Tools 1258
http://www.ebay.com/itm/28mm-Audi-V.../28mm-Audi-VW-Ball-Joint-Tie-Rod-End-Separator-Remover-Tools-1258-/400696537930
I took a gamble on this tool as it's far different from what was recommended. However some people were having trouble with the 19mm lever tools that were being recommended - with the tool either not fitting or breaking. This can also be used to pop the upper ball joint / tie rod joint, and there’s plenty of room to do that without any additional futzing. IMHO this works great. The 28mm jaw fits nicely. The tool has no pin joints to break under strain, and does not damage the rubber boots such as when using pickle forks.
For the front ball joints, you must first remove the axle in order to have the space needed to insert the tool. You can do this by removing the 2 large damper pinch bolts as shown in this article (for details on axle removal procedure see this Happy Wrenching article:
http://www.happywrenching.com/honda...odyssey/honda-odyssey-half-shaft-replacement-axle-removal-and-installation.html
If you’re only working on the lower ball joint, I realize pulling the axle means extra steps in which case this may not be the tool for you. But if you’re pulling the whole knuckle anyway such as to replace a hub & front wheel bearing, then you’d need to remove the axle anyway (in which case there are no extra steps).
The procedure I use to pop the upper and lower joints on my 2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L is below.
There are plenty of great how-to posts on ball joint separation, and separator tool options, so I will keep this somewhat high-level just to give you a sense of how I was able to get the most out of this tool.
Apply engine oil to the threads of the tool before using.
Upper and Lower Ball Joint separation
• Remove the tire, axle spindle nut, brake line mounting bolt, brakes, brake caliper (hang tight with a bungee cord from strut spring)
• Remove the 2 rotor screws and the rotor.
• Very carefully remove the ABS sensor. It’s plastic and breaks easily. (remove the bolt, gently twist to loosen, and pull up gradually working it out).
• Separate the upper tie rod ball joint with the KTC tool. (remove pin, loosen nut until flush with top of stud, but don’t remove. Insert the KTC tool between the top of the boot and the knuckle. Take care to not damage the boot. Clamp the tool in place - Thread the bolt of the tool closed until its pressed against the top of the ball joints stud and nut. Tighten to tool and pop the joint. Remove the nut and disconnect joint)
• Remove the 2 damper pinch nuts & bolts. Bungee-cord the top of the knuckle to help keep in place for next steps.
• Remove the axle by gradually popping it with a plastic hammer. Important: Don’t pull on the axle / joint apart or out away from the car! See Happy Wrenching link above for details on that. You’ll need to grab the top of the knuckle and gradually pull out and away from the strut as you’re axle progresses inward. Once the axle tip is far enough into the hub, you should be able to reach around back and grab wide outer part of the axle and work it out the rest of the way by wiggle it back side to side.
• Reinstall the 2 damper pinch bolts to hold the knuckle in place. If you’re removing the whole knuckle, I remove these bolts again close to the end.
• Now you have room to use the tool. Separate the lower ball joint with the KTC tool. (remove pin, remove the castle nut, invert it so the flat side is up/castle side down, and thread it back on just enough to be flush with top of the ball joint stud. Insert the KTC tool between the top of the boot and the knuckle. Take care to not damage the boot. Clamp the tool in place - Thread the bolt of the tool closed until its pressed against the top of the ball joints stud and castle nut. Tighten to tool and pop the joint. Prepare for a loud bang. Now the joint is separated. Remove the castle nut)
• If you’re removing the whole knuckle, here’s when I remove the 2 damper pinch bolts. That’s all that is holding everything in place at this point, so be sure to have hold of the knuckle as you’re removing these bolts. Lift up and out to remove the Knuckle.
• Repair what's needed, reassemble and take satisfaction in knowing the ball joints weren't as difficult as you thought they would be.
Hopes this is of value to some of you.
This is a Ball Joint Separator tool that can be used as an alternative to the $400 07MAC-SL00100 tool from Honda, but it REQUIRES you first remove the front axle in order to use it. Otherwise there is not enough room for the tool to fit. If this is an option for you, then this may be worth your time.
First, the tool…
KTC Ball Joint Separator tool
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Audi, A4, A6, A8 Ball Joint Separator
Part #: 741-0115A
Audi, A4, A6, A8 Ball Joint Separator
Part #: 741-0115A
$35.99 USD
•Jaws open: 28mm
•Jaws deep: 25mm
•Applicable: Audi, A4, A6, A8, VW, Passat ab '97, etc.
•Jaws deep: 25mm
•Applicable: Audi, A4, A6, A8, VW, Passat ab '97, etc.
http://shop.ktcautotools.com/collections/audi-vw-tools/products/audi-a4-a6-a8-ball-joint-separator
I purchased mine on here for $29.99:
28mm Audi VW Ball Joint Tie Rod End Separator Remover Tools 1258
http://www.ebay.com/itm/28mm-Audi-V.../28mm-Audi-VW-Ball-Joint-Tie-Rod-End-Separator-Remover-Tools-1258-/400696537930
I took a gamble on this tool as it's far different from what was recommended. However some people were having trouble with the 19mm lever tools that were being recommended - with the tool either not fitting or breaking. This can also be used to pop the upper ball joint / tie rod joint, and there’s plenty of room to do that without any additional futzing. IMHO this works great. The 28mm jaw fits nicely. The tool has no pin joints to break under strain, and does not damage the rubber boots such as when using pickle forks.
For the front ball joints, you must first remove the axle in order to have the space needed to insert the tool. You can do this by removing the 2 large damper pinch bolts as shown in this article (for details on axle removal procedure see this Happy Wrenching article:
http://www.happywrenching.com/honda...odyssey/honda-odyssey-half-shaft-replacement-axle-removal-and-installation.html
If you’re only working on the lower ball joint, I realize pulling the axle means extra steps in which case this may not be the tool for you. But if you’re pulling the whole knuckle anyway such as to replace a hub & front wheel bearing, then you’d need to remove the axle anyway (in which case there are no extra steps).
The procedure I use to pop the upper and lower joints on my 2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L is below.
There are plenty of great how-to posts on ball joint separation, and separator tool options, so I will keep this somewhat high-level just to give you a sense of how I was able to get the most out of this tool.
Apply engine oil to the threads of the tool before using.
Upper and Lower Ball Joint separation
• Remove the tire, axle spindle nut, brake line mounting bolt, brakes, brake caliper (hang tight with a bungee cord from strut spring)
• Remove the 2 rotor screws and the rotor.
• Very carefully remove the ABS sensor. It’s plastic and breaks easily. (remove the bolt, gently twist to loosen, and pull up gradually working it out).
• Separate the upper tie rod ball joint with the KTC tool. (remove pin, loosen nut until flush with top of stud, but don’t remove. Insert the KTC tool between the top of the boot and the knuckle. Take care to not damage the boot. Clamp the tool in place - Thread the bolt of the tool closed until its pressed against the top of the ball joints stud and nut. Tighten to tool and pop the joint. Remove the nut and disconnect joint)
• Remove the 2 damper pinch nuts & bolts. Bungee-cord the top of the knuckle to help keep in place for next steps.
• Remove the axle by gradually popping it with a plastic hammer. Important: Don’t pull on the axle / joint apart or out away from the car! See Happy Wrenching link above for details on that. You’ll need to grab the top of the knuckle and gradually pull out and away from the strut as you’re axle progresses inward. Once the axle tip is far enough into the hub, you should be able to reach around back and grab wide outer part of the axle and work it out the rest of the way by wiggle it back side to side.
• Reinstall the 2 damper pinch bolts to hold the knuckle in place. If you’re removing the whole knuckle, I remove these bolts again close to the end.
• Now you have room to use the tool. Separate the lower ball joint with the KTC tool. (remove pin, remove the castle nut, invert it so the flat side is up/castle side down, and thread it back on just enough to be flush with top of the ball joint stud. Insert the KTC tool between the top of the boot and the knuckle. Take care to not damage the boot. Clamp the tool in place - Thread the bolt of the tool closed until its pressed against the top of the ball joints stud and castle nut. Tighten to tool and pop the joint. Prepare for a loud bang. Now the joint is separated. Remove the castle nut)
• If you’re removing the whole knuckle, here’s when I remove the 2 damper pinch bolts. That’s all that is holding everything in place at this point, so be sure to have hold of the knuckle as you’re removing these bolts. Lift up and out to remove the Knuckle.
• Repair what's needed, reassemble and take satisfaction in knowing the ball joints weren't as difficult as you thought they would be.
Hopes this is of value to some of you.
