Timing Belt Tensioner - Broken bolt

djailer · Sep 14, 2014

I broke off one of the bolts which hold the hydraulic tensioner on. I am pretty sure it was not over-torqued but here I am regardless. There is almost 1/4" of thread left on the bolt. Is there any way to get the stud out without removing the entire engine. I am searching for out of the box ideas here as I don't have the equipment/$$$ to have someone remove the whole block to extract this stupid thing. That is why I am doing the job myself in the first place. Is there such a thing as a 90 degree drill, which will also fit into tight spaces? I also recognize it would be tough to be sure I am drilling square even if there was such a thing. I am hoping when extracting it won't be terribly snug since it broke off so easily.

My first instinct was to snug the bolt up and JB Weld what's left of it back in. I understand it is not optional - or even desireable - but the other bolt is tight and I am hoping this basically would keep the broken one in place and help keep the tensioner stable. I understand that this is a really critical part and if it goes, so goes the timing belt, valves, etc. and who knows how far from home. I am not liking the odds.

What are the chances I can find a mobile mechanic who might be able to work some magic with the engine in place? Is it worth it to call the dealer and ask them how much just to extract the bolt? Assuming a complete engine teardown is not an option - especially there. Any chance I could just let the engine drop enought to get at it with a regular drill. It seems like it would have to be a pretty good drop, maybe 8-10"? What is likely to break if I could do that - tranny, CV, or ??? Naturally it is the top bolt, not the bottom one but the difference is a matter of less than 2".

Any other options that aren't likely to bust the bank?

I am indebted to desmo888 and his sticky on the whole timing belt replacement epic. Except for this bolt it went almost exactly as scripted. I used the starter method to remove the crank bolt. I guess I will go to Autozone and borrow a chain-wrench to torque it back on.

I appreciate any suggestions that you can offer. Esepecially on a Sunday

SLVR6 · Sep 16, 2014

Sorry about your predicament! That is always an unfortunate risk. Did you spray either bolt with something like PB blaster? If not, do so and let the other bolt soak. Hopefully then it will release correctly. You said there is some bolt showing, I am assuming that is with the tensioner still installed? If that is the case and you can release the other bolt maybe the PB blaster will have penetrated the broken one enough. A little heat from a torch can also help (but carefully in that area!). If you get to the point of drilling it (they make flexible extensions) then make sure you get a really good quality screw extractor, NOT the cheaper parts store ones as they break easily. Good luck, I just did the same job on 2 vans a couple weeks back.

djailer · Sep 16, 2014

I was putting the tensioner back on when the bolt snapped. It broke off about 1/4" in so there is nothing to grab. I was hoping there was a drill with very limited clearance but the only low-clearance one I can find at HF is about 6" across - and there is only 2-3 " of clearance alongside the engine. I called two dealers and they seem to think it is possible to do in and hour or two. I am going to have to search more about flexible drill extensions??

SLVR6 · Sep 16, 2014

Make sure you get a VERY good quality screw extractor! Here are some flexable extensions.

Titan Flexible Extension Bit Holder - Screwdriver Bit Holders - Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/Enkay-115-C-Shaft-4-Inch-Carded/dp/B001PTSWJ6/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1410876133&sr=8-11&keywords=flex+drill+bit

djailer · Sep 23, 2014

The Enkay doesn't get too good of reviews ...it doesn't go in reverse, breaks down and looks to be too big anyway. Maybe the Titan would work but I am going to have to find both left handed, short and hex mount drill bits! There is not going to be enough room for a chuck adapter. I can't tell if reverse is not an option for this one as well.

Another idea would be to put a spot of super glue on the broken piece and try to snug it in. Maybe it will hold? I don't think it was anywhere near 19 ft/lbs. It was still turning fairly easy when it broke off. I will need to be careful not to let the glue get out to the threads though. I don't know...if they can hang someone by a hardhat I would hope it might hold a bolt together long enough to ease it out.

Most of the tight-clearance tools I am finding are either too big or are going to cost enough where it will make more sense to take it to a Honda shop and have them do it. I tried a couple of mobile mechs but they won't touch it. Can't blame them I guess. If any hack is going to mess it up it had better be me

I thought about lowering the engine but there doesn't seem to be room even if I did. The engine is going to be sitting on the frame after about 1-1 1/2 inches and I need at least 4 to get at it straight on.

Is the kit Autozone loans out considered a decent extractor set? I presume HF is out of contention from the start. I know I am looking ahead a bit but it is frustrating with the van sitting there on account of one lousy bolt.

Jerry O · Sep 23, 2014

There is a right angle attachment for the Dremmel Tool which might be a possibility. Also, with the Dremmel you might be able to use a cut-off wheel to cut into the boss which holds the stub until a slot is cut into the stub. You may then be able to screw the stub out with a right-angle screw driver. Once you get the stub out, you should be able to seal the slots in the boss with JBWeld. That is the shot I would take.
Good luck, Jerry O.

djailer · Sep 23, 2014

The cut off wheel idea is great but I am leary about cutting into the block. Do they make a small wheel that will minimize the cut into the boss but still get to the bolt 1/4" down, then enough more to get a good slot? How would you seal up the cuts? Fill with JBWeld, then bolt the tensioner back on over it? You wouldn't leave it open to cure - if it spills over onto the threads won't it interfere with the bolt going back in?

mrstop · Sep 23, 2014

Rather than drop the engine, can you jack up the front of the engine to get enough clearance? I'm thinking that you would need to unbolt the rear and front mounts (probably bottom frame bolts only) along with the exhaust pipe to get enough movement.

I second the reco for a quality screw extractor. You don't want to create a worse problem by breaking a hardened steel tool in the bolt. Also I have had the best luck using extractors by drilling nearly or all the way through the offending bolt.

djailer · Sep 24, 2014

That is going to have to be a lot of jacking. Probably double the distance. And I am not sure what else would need to be disconnected. Last thing I want to hear is the little 'ping' sound as an 800 lb engine gently snaps some part on its way up or down. Especially an expensive one

(

I am good with the quality extractor idea. I don't know if Autozone's kit is included in that description. I so wish I was ready to get to that point.

Jerry O · Sep 24, 2014

I have never seen the area you are working on, so you would have to make the judgement regarding possible damage to the engine casting. The wheels come in fairly small diameters and, depending upon how deep you have to go to make a usable slot in the stub, you should be able to see what the cut into the casting will be. Does the boss the bolt screws into protrude from the surface of the casting? If so, the chances are good that there would not be any structural damage. Once the stub is extracted, I would coat the threads of the new bolt with grease and screw it into the block. Then, I would apply the JBWeld to the cuts in the block and allow it to cure. Then, you should be able to remove the bolt and grind the mounting surface smooth for the bolt up of the tensioner.
Best of luck! Jerry O.

Jerry O · Sep 24, 2014

I just thought of another possility. You should remove the wheel and see if there is a chance of using a holesaw to make a hole you could work through with an extension drill to bore into the stub to accommodate an extractor. To do this, you may have to remove the strut, but that would be much easier than trying to move the engine/transmission.
Jerry O.

djailer · Sep 24, 2014

Hmm..good point. The fender area isn't too structural is it? If I could get even a 1" hole through the inner and outer fender maybe I could get to it. Maybe 2 inches to be sure I get it centered on the bolt. I could probably JB Weld the circles back in afterwards. I would need a pretty long bit that is still strong enough to drill the bolt out. Let' see, strut removal vs. engine/tranny removal..hmmm, yes

I am going to take a look - if the rain will just hold up a little!

The surface is flush so there is no protruding area to drill through. The smallest cutting discs I have found so far are 1 1/2" diameter. I figure I would have to cut about 1/2" in to get a good slot across the bolt. And I understand those don't exactly work quickly on screws and bolts so cutting into the block...? It takes a 10mm wrench so the bolt (and hole) is probably about 8mm across I am guessing. I am not sure if there is a more precise geometric solution but I figure it would require about 1/2" of cut on both sides of the hole. I am going to look further into the hole saw solution. Thanks!!!

kaimanson · Mar 18, 2018

djailer said:
Hmm..good point. The fender area isn't too structural is it? If I could get even a 1" hole through the inner and outer fender maybe I could get to it. Maybe 2 inches to be sure I get it centered on the bolt. I could probably JB Weld the circles back in afterwards. I would need a pretty long bit that is still strong enough to drill the bolt out. Let' see, strut removal vs. engine/tranny removal..hmmm, yes /forums/images/smilies/smile.gif I am going to take a look - if the rain will just hold up a little!

The surface is flush so there is no protruding area to drill through. The smallest cutting discs I have found so far are 1 1/2" diameter. I figure I would have to cut about 1/2" in to get a good slot across the bolt. And I understand those don't exactly work quickly on screws and bolts so cutting into the block...? It takes a 10mm wrench so the bolt (and hole) is probably about 8mm across I am guessing. I am not sure if there is a more precise geometric solution but I figure it would require about 1/2" of cut on both sides of the hole. I am going to look further into the hole saw solution. Thanks!!!

Had a situation like this on a hurricane shutter bolt....glue did the trick

Jerry O · Sep 24, 2014

The set of Dremmel accessories includes 1" abrasive wheels, which are pretty fragile. The good news is that they are cheap and plentiful. Also in the kit are some 1-1/4" wheels, which are thicker and stronger. There, of course, is the risk of cutting into the water jacket with the wheel. Should that happen, the cuts would have to be sealed, perhaps, with a thin washer over sealant in the cuts, held in place by the tensioner.

With regard to working through a hole in the inner fender/strut tower, you should be able to find an extension to extend your drill bit to reach the target.

Jerry O.

djailer · Sep 26, 2014

A hole through the frame is not going to work. It would require a hole through the actual frame itself, not a fender or other piece. I am not keen on removing 25% of the height on two sides of the frame itself. Besides best I can tell the proper spot is right behind the place the brake line is attached to the frame. I have no way to put that back - I don't weld. My best bet might be if I can find a short, hex mount bit that would fit in the Titan 90 degree drill adapter. I think that might almost fit.

One other option which might work....there is some kind of support that runs from a ball joint forward across the front just under the engine. This is what looks like it is in the way of the engine dropping more. There is what looks like a metal tube running across the front. This piece does not look like it mounts to the frame so far. Depending on what else is attached mabye that comes loose - which would give me enough space for the engine to drop enough to get at the bolt straight on. Anyone know the mechanical/structural contribution this piece makes? I will have to take a more thorough look but just maybe this could work. Is dropping the engine down another 4-6 " going to strain any connections anywhere else? Or, if I get the center front and rear mounts loose will this just drop with the engine? I don't have an engine hoist so I would be relying on a couple of bottle jacks to support the engine/tranny. I do have a cheap floor jack. Thoughts/Suggestions/Advice???

Jerry O · Oct 4, 2014

Please let us know how you resolve this problem.
Jerry O.

lothian · Nov 30, 2017

typical...
yet another interesting conversation with zero closure.

my guess is the OP bailed on the car.

arclight · Dec 7, 2017

Not like it would help now, but I did a repair like this (sheared motor mount bolt) on an Astro van. Get a right-angle drill from Harbor Freight, several high-quality stub (short length) drills from a quality supplier like McMaster-Carr, and the largest EZ-Out that will fit. Would probably have come right out.

If it didn't, getting someone to weld a nut over the old broken bolt would also do it.

Studer55 · Jun 25, 2025

I had the same thing happen on my 2010 ODY. Took some digging to figure it out. In my case it was a matter of the tensioner failing after doing a valve job. I changed the tensioner for an AM one and in the process over torquing it the bolt that came with the tensioner. It failed a few weeks later when the big boss was pulling it out of the garage.....lucky us. Broke off inside the AC mount bracket.

Word of advice. Don't skip a step as each allows you to see what you are doing clearly vs doing it by feel. Something I learned the hard way!!

You do not have to raise the engine or even loosen the engine mounts. It may look like it bolts into a boss on the block. In fact it bolts into a boss on the AC bracket.

I tried all options others tried and nothing worked. What did work was straightforward (not simple, but works

Steps to change out,.
1 -remove upper engine bay cover (allows you access to some of the bolts and more importantly line of site to what you are removing. Same goes with the the lower splash sheild under the ac compressor and right front fenderwell.
2- next remove the PS pump reservoir from its bracket then remove the bracket tieing reservoir up out of the way
3- unhook and remove the Alternator
4 - remove 4 bolts holding the AC compressor. DO NOT unhook the AC ines. Not required
Note: I used cable ties in the form of a loop through a couple of the through holes to do two things. 1) control the alternator movements both getting it out and putting it in. 2)Same thing when it came to managing teh movement of the AC compresoor. Both are very heavy and often oily. Easy to drop and cause damage or bust a finger. For the AC Compressor it also helped to keep the weigth off the compressor fittings
5- once compressor is loose you can get to the AC Compressor mounting bolts (4 of them) and loosen the bracket.
6- once bracket is loose from the engine. I removed the AC bracket. I pulled it out the bottm if memory serves.
7- I had ordered a new AC bracket ($250+)Just in case I wasnt able to remove the bolt.

Once AC bracket was out. soaked with pentrating oil and used an easy out and it came right out.

re-assembled with anti-seize all around and torqued to specs.....been fine ever since.

Took weeks to get a new bracket which tells me this is a common issue. I have the spare usable bracket for sale if anyone needs one.

one other note. On the 2010 bracket there are two casting bosses to use the 17 or 19MM socket to load and unload the belt tensioner spring. What I realized later is that I may have accidentally overtorqued the tensioner bolt when I had the socket on the tensioner mount bolt versus what I thought were the bosses to load or unload the tensioners.

On vacay currently in Atlantic City or I would add the pictures to supplement the instructions.

Good luck, N

jonathan27 · Mar 2, 2022

djailer said:
I broke off one of the bolts which hold the hydraulic tensioner on. I am pretty sure it was not over-torqued but here I am regardless. There is almost 1/4" of thread left on the bolt. Is there any way to get the stud out without removing the entire engine. I am searching for out of the box ideas here as I don't have the equipment/$$$ to have someone remove the whole block to extract this stupid thing. That is why I am doing the job myself in the first place. Is there such a thing as a 90 degree drill, which will also fit into tight spaces? I also recognize it would be tough to be sure I am drilling square even if there was such a thing. I am hoping when extracting it won't be terribly snug since it broke off so easily.

My first instinct was to snug the bolt up and JB Weld what's left of it back in. I understand it is not optional - or even desireable - but the other bolt is tight and I am hoping this basically would keep the broken one in place and help keep the tensioner stable. I understand that this is a really critical part and if it goes, so goes the timing belt, valves, etc. and who knows how far from home. I am not liking the odds.

What are the chances I can find a mobile mechanic who might be able to work some magic with the engine in place? Is it worth it to call the dealer and ask them how much just to extract the bolt? Assuming a complete engine teardown is not an option - especially there. Any chance I could just let the engine drop enought to get at it with a regular drill. It seems like it would have to be a pretty good drop, maybe 8-10"? What is likely to break if I could do that - tranny, CV, or ??? Naturally it is the top bolt, not the bottom one but the difference is a matter of less than 2".

Any other options that aren't likely to bust the bank?

I am indebted to desmo888 and his sticky on the whole timing belt replacement epic. Except for this bolt it went almost exactly as scripted. I used the starter method to remove the crank bolt. I guess I will go to Autozone and borrow a chain-wrench to torque it back on.

I appreciate any suggestions that you can offer. Esepecially on a Sunday

i am pretty sure you need a right angle drill, left handed drill bits,and a bolt extractor. If all that fails just a drill bit then just retap it

Timing Belt Tensioner - Broken bolt

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