egads said:
Who and when was the oil changed? It is important to put in 5w to stop cold start tapping. Honda recommends 5-20, but 5-30 is fine. 10-30 will cause the tapping. Anyone can change the oil, but the competent will make sure the specs are right.
Just to make things more interesting for y'all:
Oddly, depending on the engine and the particular oil, it may be important to NOT use 5W, but rather, 10W, to stop cold engine tapping.
My other vehicle (a Toyota product, 4.7L V8) will exhibit cold tapping (valve lash) if I use 5W-30 Mobil 1, but there absolutely NO cold valve lash tapping if I use 10W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic.
Someone else asked me this, and it turns out he also has this experience, with a different engine/vehicle (GM product), using Mobil 1 synthetic.
So, it's not just me.
Synthetic oil has better cold flow properties than petroleum-based oil, so it may not compare directly to regular oil, regarding this issue.
I believe that compared to petroleum-based oil 5W-30 (and the synthetic 10W-30), the synthetic 5W-30 oil drains away more fully from the upper engine components, including the valvetrain clearance areas, when sitting overnight. So when the cold engine using synthetic 5W is started, the valvetrain has less residual oil coating the contact parts (follower-to-cam, rocker-to-valve actuator, depending on design, etc.), and therefore, those parts make more noise for a minute or so, until they both (a) become re-coated with oil within the contact clearances, and also (b) expand to reduce clearances.
(All of the above assuming NOT a hydraulic lifter design valvetrain. If hydraulic lifters are used - there are other issues.)
(And yes, I always use a filter with an anti-drainback valve.)
Fuel economy is apparently the same, whether 5W-30 or 10W-30 Mobil 1, in my Toyota-built thingy.
Anyway, when I started using 10W synthetic instead of 5W synthetic, the problem went away.
We'll see what happens with the Ody.
