Honda Odyssey Forum banner
1 - 20 of 60 Posts

Accord07

· Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have had an Elite for a week and put ~400 miles on it. The only thing that has surprised me so far is Android Auto causing my phone battery to drain.


Although each of the three USB ports is rated at 2.5A, I am only able to draw ~1.2A from the two USB ports on the back of the console next to HDMI which is not bad - my phone can draw up to 2.3A with a Qualcomm QuickCharge 2.0/3.0 spec charger, but much less with a generic one. I would be thrilled if the USB port inside the console, which is the only one with data pins available and required for Android Auto to function, could deliver that much. If my phone is connected to one of the two ports next to HDMI, it reports the power source as an AC charger and pulls in ~1.2A; if it is instead connected to the port inside the console, it reports the power ousrce as "USB" and draws no more than 500mA. With Android Auto providing navigation, a music app streaming, and the phone acting as a WiFi hotspot for passengers, my Nexus 6 loses ~12-15% battery charge while plugged in. In other words if my phone has only 30% charge left when I start, by the end of a two-hour trip the phone would be almost dead.


Why the 500mA limit? It is the maximum current allowed in USB 1.0 and 2.0 specifications, USB 3.0 increases it to 900mA. Typically an AC charger has the USB data pins on its side either shorted or connected with a resistor to present a certain voltage, so a phone knows it is not connected to a USB port on a computer and can safely draw a higher current. Initially I thought it was entirely Google's fault, because when the phone knows Android Auto is running it should be able to override the 500mA limit safely. In addition to the Motorola Nexus 6, I tried phones from two other manufacturers (Huawei Nexus 6P and Samsung Galaxy Note 4) and found the same results. After doing more research I have realized that Honda is not blameless either on this issue: in 2009 electronics manufacturers adopted Battery Charging Specification to increase the maximum draw to 1.5A on a port that is designated as a Charing Downstream Port (CDP). On my 3-year-old laptop computer all three ports are USB 3.0, one of them is CDP-compliant. When plugged into the two non-CDP USB ports, my phone still draws no more than 500mA (instead of the 900mA limit); but when using the CDP-compliant port, it draws 1.2A and reports the power source as an AC charger. In other words, the USB port in my Odyssey is not fully compliant with industry standards.

This is an annoyance for me but not a deal-breaker at the end of the day, because I can always use the on-board navigation when I have to. Had I bought an EX or EX-L thinking that I could rely on Android Auto, then I would be quite unhappy.
 
If you're using android auto you must use the console port, which in the EX-L is rated at 2A+. If your android auto is working, I assume the cable you are using is pretty high quality as well, since it's usually finicky about it. It sounds like you're saying you're using other ports while using android auto which, as I understand it, is impossible.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
No, I am not trying to use the other two USB ports, which don't use their data pins and thus can be used for charging only. When data pins are not in use, the phone knows it is dealing with a "pure" charger and asks for higher output. The problem with the designated USB port is that it requires data pins for Android Auto to function, and yet during negotiation fails to establish itself as a Charging Downstream Port, so the phone treats it as a standard USB 1.0/2.0 data port and limits its draw to 500mA. All cables I have tried were the OEM version that came with the phones. When connected to my laptop, the same phone is able to tell the difference between a standard USB port and one that can deliver 1.5A. There are Y-cables that separate out data pins - with one microUSB connector on one end, and two USB Type A connectors on the other - so potentially one can plug the data connector into the car with power connector going into a separate charger, although I doubt it would make any difference because the phone may very well behave the same way because data pins are still used.

With "Wi-Fi Projection" mode, a USB connection could be eliminated. But Google never followed up with any details since the initial announcement a year ago and was silent on this during its annual I/O event last month.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I am not sure if there are any workarounds for us owners, may have to wait for Honda to address it directly or for AA over Wi-Fi to become a reality (as of now it's vaporware). Now that I understand there are three type of downstream USB ports, Standard Downstream Port (SDP), Charging Downstream Port (CDP), and Dedicated Charging Port (DCP), it is clear what the root cause is: the two USB ports in the back are DCPs and behaving as expected, the one USB port in the console is a CDP but mistakenly advertised as an SDP. On my way home this afternoon I remembered that I had a dongle which came with a 2.1A car charger five years ago, iPads could be charged directly with it, while Samsung Galaxy Tabs had to use the dongle or it wouldn't charge. Now I understand why: Apple devices deal with charging current in a different way, there is a resistor between the data pins in the charger; the dongle shorts data pins so that Galaxy Tab would recognized the port as a DCP and draw 2A instead of 500mA. To my surprise I actually found the dongle among my pile of useless electronic accessories, so I attached it to the console USB port to test my theory. Well, my phone took it as DCP and pulled in as much amperage as it would from the other two charging ports. There is nothing wrong hardware-wise with that port, the problem is in the software. Sigh...
 
Ugh. This annoys me. I cant maintain battery while using Android Auto.

Using Ampere App, my phone (nexus 6p) takes 1.1 to 1.4 amp from the Android Auto USB port the moment the car is turned on. once the Headunit boots, it drops to 500ma max.

You're correct, that it appears to treat the port as a SDP instead of CDP. I suspect it has something to do with the fact that the same port is use to upload files on USB to the built in HDD. I have a '17 Accord with Android Auto, and while using AA, my phone is pulling 1.1 to 1.4 amps.

I been looking to see if there is a software hack or hardware dongle to force my phone to pull at a higher current.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
There are Y-cables with a single micro-B connector on one end, and two Type A connectors on the other - only one of the two Type A connectors have data pins. They are used on some portable hard drives, the idea is to allow the device draw power from two USB ports. If I had such a cable already (may have an ancient one when mini-B connector was the norm but that's useless in this case) I would have tried it, but I don't want to order a cable just to try it and don't think it will be a good long term solution anyway even if it works: unless the two Type A connectors are getting the exact same voltage, which is very unlikely, one of them will end up feeding into the other.
 
Thought I would hop in here and share my experience with this. My husband and I use Pixel XL's to connect our Android Auto. The odd thing is that with my hubby's phone connected he actually gains/maintains charge. BUT when I use my phone to connect I lose charge. We are completely baffled by this since they are the same phone, we are trying to figure out why one would gain/maintain charge and the other would lose.
 
There are Y-cables with a single micro-B connector on one end, and two Type A connectors on the other - only one of the two Type A connectors have data pins. They are used on some portable hard drives, the idea is to allow the device draw power from two USB ports. If I had such a cable already (may have an ancient one when mini-B connector was the norm but that's useless in this case) I would have tried it, but I don't want to order a cable just to try it and don't think it will be a good long term solution anyway even if it works: unless the two Type A connectors are getting the exact same voltage, which is very unlikely, one of them will end up feeding into the other.


What about adding a powered USB hub in between the port and the phone and then use the on board AC plug to power it? Kind of ghetto, but should pass along the data and power as well?

Worth a try?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I don't have a powered USB hub; however, when a USB hub with no power source was attached, the head unit did not even detect the phone. Besides, even if it worked there is no power source inside the console so one cannot keep the clutter of cables out of sight.
 
How is everyone doing with their phone charge while using AA? My phone charges, albeit slowly, but it DOES have a positive direction. I would guess less than 10%/hour, which may disappoint many I'm fine with.

I used AA this past week on a 6hr roadtrip and tried to pay attention to battery level. Minimal stops along the way but whenever I did it was trending upward and eventually reached full charge and stayed there. Typically used it to navigate and stream pandora the entire drive.
 
I have an S8 and it works fine with a slower than normal charge...maybe 5-10% an hour. But it is not negative and works just fine. I love how it just goes right in when I plug in and I put a shortcut to android auto on the home screen. Makes the days of holder mounted phones a thing of the past. Best part is google maps shows up on the speed gauge console near turns for navigation.

I also have used Waze its just fine as well. Overall pretty happy with it...just remember to long press the speaker button for OK google
 
I am not sure if there are any workarounds for us owners, may have to wait for Honda to address it directly or for AA over Wi-Fi to become a reality (as of now it's vaporware). Now that I understand there are three type of downstream USB ports, Standard Downstream Port (SDP), Charging Downstream Port (CDP), and Dedicated Charging Port (DCP), it is clear what the root cause is: the two USB ports in the back are DCPs and behaving as expected, the one USB port in the console is a CDP but mistakenly advertised as an SDP. On my way home this afternoon I remembered that I had a dongle which came with a 2.1A car charger five years ago, iPads could be charged directly with it, while Samsung Galaxy Tabs had to use the dongle or it wouldn't charge. Now I understand why: Apple devices deal with charging current in a different way, there is a resistor between the data pins in the charger; the dongle shorts data pins so that Galaxy Tab would recognized the port as a DCP and draw 2A instead of 500mA. To my surprise I actually found the dongle among my pile of useless electronic accessories, so I attached it to the console USB port to test my theory. Well, my phone took it as DCP and pulled in as much amperage as it would from the other two charging ports. There is nothing wrong hardware-wise with that port, the problem is in the software. Sigh...

Hi - I was trying to figure this out too. I think this is more a hardware issue than a software issue.
I think this might have been just poorly thought out during design and they decided to put a standard charging port instead of the charging data port. I was looking at how the USB ports are and came across this which describes the hardware differences between the 3 types of downstream ports.
https://www.maximintegrated dot com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/5801

Based on this I was thinking that they went the cheap? stupid? route and decided on the standard charging port for the one that connects to the console. Do you still think it is a sofware problem?
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Hi - I was trying to figure this out too. I think this is more a hardware issue than a software issue.
I think this might have been just poorly thought out during design and they decided to put a standard charging port instead of the charging data port. I was looking at how the USB ports are and came across this which describes the hardware differences between the 3 types of downstream ports.
https://www.maximintegrated dot com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/5801

Based on this I was thinking that they went the cheap? stupid? route and decided on the standard charging port for the one that connects to the console. Do you still think it is a sofware problem?
It's a good read and you have made a great point. All I was able to prove was that when the data pins were shorted the port charged as fast as the other two ports on the back of the console did (by shorting the pins it was turned into a Dedicated Charging Port), that cannot confirm whether it has the necessary circuitry (for Charging Downstream Port) where the detection/negotiation is most likely to occur without any involvement of the head unit's firmware.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Check this thread, seems like for certain phones the wireless charger is faster than the 500ma wired charger. Seems like the best solution for staying connected to Android Auto and the fastest (although still slow) charging.

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/#/topics/315753
Actually I posted that thread as well :) When I had a Nexus 6 it could pull a higher charging current from the wireless charging pad as well, but whenever the USB port was plugged in it would not negotiate with the wireless charger at all. On the other hand Galaxy S8+ switches charging source on-the-fly, depending on which one charges faster. I am actually not a big fan of wireless charging - joking about Apple being 5 years too late to the game notwithstanding - but in this case it gives me a workaround so I am glad to have it.
 
I am not sure if there are any workarounds for us owners, may have to wait for Honda to address it directly or for AA over Wi-Fi to become a reality (as of now it's vaporware). Now that I understand there are three type of downstream USB ports, Standard Downstream Port (SDP), Charging Downstream Port (CDP), and Dedicated Charging Port (DCP), it is clear what the root cause is: the two USB ports in the back are DCPs and behaving as expected, the one USB port in the console is a CDP but mistakenly advertised as an SDP. On my way home this afternoon I remembered that I had a dongle which came with a 2.1A car charger five years ago, iPads could be charged directly with it, while Samsung Galaxy Tabs had to use the dongle or it wouldn't charge. Now I understand why: Apple devices deal with charging current in a different way, there is a resistor between the data pins in the charger; the dongle shorts data pins so that Galaxy Tab would recognized the port as a DCP and draw 2A instead of 500mA. To my surprise I actually found the dongle among my pile of useless electronic accessories, so I attached it to the console USB port to test my theory. Well, my phone took it as DCP and pulled in as much amperage as it would from the other two charging ports. There is nothing wrong hardware-wise with that port, the problem is in the software. Sigh...
Could you give an example of what the dongle looks like ? All i can think of is a cigarette lighter charger, and I don't think that's what you're describing....
While connected to that dongle, you must lose the Android Auto capability if the data pins are shorted ?
Thanks for all the insights so far !
 
1 - 20 of 60 Posts