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2011 Passenger Sliding Door Cable Fix

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#21 ·
coghlan said:
Hmmm, I don't really have $1,000 or a weekend to invest installing a new cable.

Should I just tell the dealer to remove the exposed cable and use the door manually? The passenger-side cable broke the day after we got back from holidays. At least it waited until we returned home.
Click to expand...
That is what I did. Cut the cable before and after it goes through the part that slides in the track. Door opens and closes easily. No disassembly needed. Works fine. You don't need no stinkin' dealer! :)
 
#22 ·
revdennis said:
That is what I did. Cut the cable before and after it goes through the part that slides in the track. Door opens and closes easily. No disassembly needed. Works fine. You don't need no stinkin' dealer! :)
Click to expand...
Same here, except I removed the old motor assembly too. Only reason I removed it though is because I found this thread and had the thing apart trying to fix it. The cable was so torn and chewed up inside the motor, I was not going to be able to get the old tangled mess out without destroying the pulley inside the assembly.

I did buy a new motor assembly for about $350 after putting the van back together, but haven't had a chance to install it yet. It's been sitting in my garage for almost a year now. The door has been working fine manually though.
 
#23 · (Edited)
revdennis said:
That is what I did. Cut the cable before and after it goes through the part that slides in the track. Door opens and closes easily. No disassembly needed. Works fine. You don't need no stinkin' dealer! :)
Click to expand...
Do you have to disable the master switch on the dash, which would result in the freed door moving easily but the other door less so, otherwise, if you leave the master ON, what happens when you open the door handle of the freed door, beeps?

The cable enters the track from 2 ports (fore & aft). Do you just cut it where it connects to the door (2x) and where it protrudes from each port?

I couldn't cut through with standard wirecutters that work with 14 gauge copper wire. Looks like I need something more heavy duty to slice through.
 
#24 ·
coghlan said:
Do you have to disable the master switch on the dash, which would result in the freed door moving easily but the other door less so, otherwise, if you leave the master ON, what happens when you open the door handle of the freed door, beeps?

The cable enters the track from 2 ports (fore & aft). Do you just cut it where it connects to the door (2x) and where it protrudes from each port?

I couldn't cut through with standard wirecutters that work with 14 gauge copper wire. Looks like I need something more heavy duty to slice through.
Click to expand...

I just cut the cable on both sides of the part that slides on the outside track. Turned the switch for the doors off. Yes the cable is very difficult to cut.
 
#25 ·
coghlan said:
Do you have to disable the master switch on the dash, which would result in the freed door moving easily but the other door less so, otherwise, if you leave the master ON, what happens when you open the door handle of the freed door, beeps?

The cable enters the track from 2 ports (fore & aft). Do you just cut it where it connects to the door (2x) and where it protrudes from each port?

I couldn't cut through with standard wirecutters that work with 14 gauge copper wire. Looks like I need something more heavy duty to slice through.
Click to expand...
If i recall correctly, the bad door would make a bunch of beeps if I hit the button. Before the motor completely locked up, I would hear the motor moving and chewing on the snapped cable too.

With the motor removed, I have the master switch enabled so I can still use the other power door, and nothing happens if I press the button on the door with no motor.
 
#26 ·
DD. said:
If i recall correctly, the bad door would make a bunch of beeps if I hit the button. Before the motor completely locked up, I would hear the motor moving and chewing on the snapped cable too.

With the motor removed, I have the master switch enabled so I can still use the other power door, and nothing happens if I press the button on the door with no motor.
Click to expand...
I took ours to the dealer to have the cable removed and the door disabled. At first, the door beeped whenever the van was in gear. Later, a new icon lit up and the beeping stopped.
 
#27 ·
coghlan said:
I took ours to the dealer to have the cable removed and the door disabled. At first, the door beeped whenever the van was in gear. Later, a new icon lit up and the beeping stopped.
Click to expand...
how did they disable it? did they just remove the cable?

mine acted the same when the motor was still connected. after the motor completely seized up, I got a sliding door light on the dash. once I disconnected the wiring harness on the motor, the light went away. I vaguely remember temporarily pulling a fuse to clear the light on the dash.
 
#28 ·
DD. said:
how did they disable it? did they just remove the cable?

mine acted the same when the motor was still connected. after the motor completely seized up, I got a sliding door light on the dash. once I disconnected the wiring harness on the motor, the light went away. I vaguely remember temporarily pulling a fuse to clear the light on the dash.
Click to expand...
I'm guessing they just cut it then allowed it to get twisted/jammed inside.
 
#29 ·
This is an awesome thread. I have a 2013 Ody and the drivers side cable broke. Dealer wants 1200 for repair so DIY it is. Having trouble finding that terminal block here in Canada. Wondering if anyone came up with alternatives to this block?
 
#30 ·
Well, add me to the list. I just cut the cables on the driver side door. Looks like replacement parts are only 276 now, so not too bad.

I get beeping with the switch on. So, going to have to leave the switch on when parked / parking, then turn switch off while driving.

Not sure how long the wife is going to put up with that.
 
#31 ·
I'm in Ontario and I found the ferrule stops for inside the van at home depot in the wire section. The crimper was also right there, use it once and return it. You'll just have to use a file to shave down the ferrule until fits into the pulley wheel. For attaching the wire outside, I think I found the large wire stop at Lowes in one of the loose parts drawers in hardware section with the screws and bolts. It was brass and had a screw to tighten down onto the wire. I also soldered the end of the wire to prevent it from slipping out.
 
#32 ·
#33 ·
the cables are not sold separately from the motor.

I don't know what those parts you listed are, but they are not replacement cables. the cables can be seen in the larger pic of your second link here - highlighted below as part of part #19.

Image


the links you posted are for #16 and #17 shown in the same diagram.
 
#36 ·
Ventnuts....................Here it is 2 years later, how's this holding up? Any issue with the uncoated wire fraying or rusting? My wife's van just had the cable snap and now I'm looking to possibly do this. Would you do anything differently? TIA
 
#37 · (Edited)
Just did this repair to a 2012 Honda Odyssey.

Used the following parts

1 x Dorman 03337 Cable Stop - 1/16 In., Pack of 2

1 x Loos Stainless Steel 302/304 Wire Rope, Vinyl Coated, 7x7 Strand Core, Black, 3/64" Bare OD, 1/16-Inch Coated OD, 100-Feet Length, 270 lbs Breaking Strength

4x Forney 61036 Wire Rope Stops and Ferrules with Aluminum Cable Sleeves, 1/16-Inch, 4-PackI didn't use a swagging tool and just used vice grips (should be ok (fingers crossed))

Cable lengths I used Back 63 1/2 " (end of connector to end of crimp) Front 74 1/2"

Add 1 1/2" to the above lengths to account for the cable connector as set out in this video at 1:04

Make sure to thread the cable through the spring assy before crimping (made that mistake once)

ALWAYS DISCONNECT BATTERY AND HAVE DOOR CLOSED ON THE FIRST TEST. I had a couple of weird situations where the door wouldn't open and the cable would rip out.

I loaded cable on the pulley, then mounted and screwed in the pulley and then clipped in the left spring first (then used a socket to create some slack and then compressed the right side to get the right side spring in.

Once completed I screwed the cover on and tested in manually to ensure that the cable remained taught. Test manually to ensure that the door opens and closes and the cable remains taught because if you press the button it will eat itself if anything is wrong.

Good luck
 
#39 ·
So this just happened to me the other day and looking at the parts online, the cable that snapped is the middle one that runs along the rail. I believe the parts are these ones -

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genui...a01.html?Make=Honda&Model=Odyssey&Year=2011&Submodel=&Filter=(bt=3,1601;et=2,9)

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genui...a01.html?Make=Honda&Model=Odyssey&Year=2011&Submodel=&Filter=(bt=3,1601;et=2,9)

Can anyone confirm this for me? I went as far as adding these to the cart and almost checking out - it looks like they can be ordered separately.
 
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