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Parasitic drain or current draw on battery

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OdyPete07

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm troubleshooting a parasitic drain or current draw on my battery causing my battery to go dead overnight. My multimeter indicated a steady 50-60 mA when inserted into the circuit on the negative side of the battery.

When pulling fuses one-by-one I discovered a 20-30 mA drop when I pulled the 7.5A fuse #7 Back Up under the driver-side dash. Is this the culprit? What is all on this circuit? Can I just pull the fuse and keep operating? I pulled every other fuse under the hood and under both the driver and passenger side of the dash with no change in the current draw.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
jnissen, I haven't found any specs but I have reconnected my battery with the #7 fuse pulled overnight to see what happens. Regardless of the spec if my battery is good tomorrow morning then the 20-30 mA draw is below the "maximum" allowed or designed to maintain the battery. I'm still looking for a circuit diagram. I found one for 2008-2010 models but not 2007. Still searching.
 
#4 ·
First, 50 to 60 ma is normal, and will not cause a good battery to go dead. I'd also try your meter on another car, and see what it reads. Note, it normally takes a few minutes for the current to stabilize.

Second, call the reference librarian at your local library, and see if they have circuit diagrams online. Mine in Maryland does, and they are great. They also have TSB's.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
marvinstockman, Thanks for the feedback. My car started right up this morning. It seems that pulling the #7 fuse made a difference. I will try this again tonight to verify. I did find a fuse/circuit diagram on line for a 2008 and the driver side under dash fuse panel looks exactly like my 2007. Here are the circuits/systems protected by the #7 fuse:

Combination Switch Control Unit
Guage Control Module
Immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver
Imoes Unit
Left Power Sliding Door Control Unit
MICU
MICU-Rear Junction Box Control Unit
Power Window Master Switch
Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit
Wiper/Washer Switch

I'm not sure where to find and then how to check each of these to isolate the current draw. Then again, if this is normal then perhaps AutoZone will replace my one-year old battery?
 
#7 ·
Just a random thing but are you using one of those Bluetooth OBDII adapters by chance? I recently had one go bad on me and it drained my system overnight. I narrowed it down by unplugging the thing and charged up normal. I then plugged it in and I could smell the plastic warming up. Threw the darn thing out!
 
#10 ·
Do your sliding doors open? I had a drain and a door that didn't operate/open. I think a driver side sliding door motor was causing the drain. I had everything apart and was able to get the door operating and the drain disappeared. Stuck motor maybe in my case, i don't know. This was a couple of years ago and everything still good. I think I might have posted here about it at the time.
 
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#11 ·
Hello, I am brand new here.Just bought a 2006 EX-L waiting for the new title in the mail. All my other three cars have 70 mA or less standby current.
 
#12 ·
Hello, I am brand new here.Just bought a 2006 EX-L waiting for the new title in the mail. All my other three cars have 70 mA or less standby current. I will measure the Odyssey current when I get time.
 
#13 ·
I also had a current draw. I dont remember that amps, but it was enough to drain the battery in a day or two if I didnt drive the thing. 2008 Odyssey. I pulled that fuse, but it was a pain in the butt, because I couldnt use the keyfob for the door locks. I had to lock the doors with the button on the door, then go old school and manually unlock and lock them. From what I found out on the web, the door motors may be the culprits. I just disconnected the motors on both sides, and also the black box on teh passenger side which is the control relay. I am parking it for a couple nights, to see if that was the problem.
 
#14 ·
I'm surprised I have not seen this thread before. A very common cause for what is usually a 0.4 amp battery parasitic drain is a faulty side/sliding door rear latch module. Most people resolve this by replacing the part (about $200). Some have been successful in cleaning or replacing the module's internal microswitches. There is also a post earlier today about spraying WD-40 into one of the bolt holes to free up the internal mechanism of the microswitch. I suspect this may be your issue.
 
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#18 ·
Hi Folks!
Well, I said I would update you all about my success or failure. I had success. I unplugged both sliding door motors. I also unplugged the sliding door control module. I then let the van sit for a couple days in teh driveway, and didnt start it. If the drain was still there, the battery would have been dead by then. It started right up! So, I buttoned everything back up, and breathed a sigh of relief. I can live with manual doors. I hope that this information has been helpful.
 
#19 ·
I'm in the exact same boat. Drivers slider door is INOP, and I have a battery drain traced to the No. 7 fuse.

I'd be perfectly happy living with manual doors, this is a 14 year old van with 189K on the clocks and I tend to want to keep it considering it's in great shape otherwise (and I sunk $600+ into all new front suspension, CV axles, brakes etc just this past summer). I could care less about power doors, or the GPS/NAV. But need to have the other stuff operate (power tailgate, power door locks, etc), per the marital unit instruction. Sounds like I should disconnect the motor on the drivers slider door, and see if the drain goes away. I'll be spraying WD everywhere I can, too considering this is the rust belt.
 
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