I've got a 2005 Touring that, to be honest, has felt like a money pit since we got it 3 years ago with relatively low miles. The most recent issue is the motor mounts - front, rear, and one of the sides. I've read through the threads, and everyone has said that OEM is the way to go. But the OEMs have not come down in price. The active mounts are still around $700 apiece. If I have someone else install them (definitely my preferred method on this job) we've been quoted a price of $2300 from an independent shop to replace. Dealership said about $1100 for one. This is a 13 year old van, with 116,000 miles on it, and the value is not that high. Do I just go with the Beck Arnley mounts from Rockauto?
OEM Motor Mounts worth it?
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allenjpl
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I've got a 2005 Touring that, to be honest, has felt like a money pit since we got it 3 years ago with relatively low miles. The most recent issue is the motor mounts - front, rear, and one of the sides. I've read through the threads, and everyone has said that OEM is the way to go. But the OEMs have not come down in price. The active mounts are still around $700 apiece. If I have someone else install them (definitely my preferred method on this job) we've been quoted a price of $2300 from an independent shop to replace. Dealership said about $1100 for one. This is a 13 year old van, with 116,000 miles on it, and the value is not that high. Do I just go with the Beck Arnley mounts from Rockauto?
The second generation models were designed before VCM was implemented. The hellish idea of having an engine that shuts off three of its six cylinders necessitated beefier, active engine mounts that provide additional, needed cushioning because all of sudden only half of the engine has combustion occurring.
Thus:
Front motor mounts:
$773 on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OE...ng+Mini+Passenger+Van+5-Door|Engine:3.5L+3471CC+V6+GAS+SOHC+Naturally+Aspirated
$646 at Bernardi: https://www.bernardiparts.com/Honda-RUBBER-ASSY-FR-ENGINE-MOUNTING-ACM__50830-SFY-023.aspx
Rear motor mounts:
$689 on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OE...ng+Mini+Passenger+Van+5-Door|Engine:3.5L+3471CC+V6+GAS+SOHC+Naturally+Aspirated
$746 at Bernardi: https://www.bernardiparts.com/Honda-RUBBER-ASSY-RR__50810-SHJ-305.aspx
Thanks for the education, I'm sticking with my 225,000 mile 2000 that runs flawlessly. Also it has never had any mounts installed. My tranny guy said one tranny mount was cracked years ago. May put that one on out of the bunch that I just bought.
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273 Posts
Front engine mount at Amazon for $489. Bought from Amazon Warehouse for $370 since someone returned it brand new.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFDG2TY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
We used a Beck and Arnley rear engine mount due to the high cost of for the OEM, but use VCMtuner to disable the VCM. Seems to be working fine without OEM mount and VCM disabled at this point. We'll see in a year or two if the Beck and Arnley mount will hold up.
Love to know if anyone have long term success with non-OEM mounts with VCM disable. How long do these 3rd party mounts last with VCM disabled?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00HHNL46C/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFDG2TY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
We used a Beck and Arnley rear engine mount due to the high cost of for the OEM, but use VCMtuner to disable the VCM. Seems to be working fine without OEM mount and VCM disabled at this point. We'll see in a year or two if the Beck and Arnley mount will hold up.
Love to know if anyone have long term success with non-OEM mounts with VCM disable. How long do these 3rd party mounts last with VCM disabled?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00HHNL46C/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all
Back to the original post: you really should have a VCM Muzzler installed if you have not already done so. With the VCM Muzzler installed you can install the much cheaper, non-active, engine mounts. No way should you pay the big bucks for the expensive OEM mounts.
As mentioned, if you do not have a muzzler of any sort get one on ASAP. It will save you much money in the future, it dropped the oil consumption on my EXL to almost nothing. Folks who have installed the OEM non-active mounts on a muzzled Ody seem to be quite happy with the outcome. This is the route I will be going when the weather warms up but with VCM disabled the loose motor mounts I have are not too annoying. For the front and rear mount I would do OEM only, the rest you can go with aftermarket but those ones are pretty cheap considering.
See post #11 for the parts needed:
https://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2...ums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/324802-2007-active-passive-motor-mount-conversion.html
See post #11 for the parts needed:
https://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2...ums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/324802-2007-active-passive-motor-mount-conversion.html
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6,166 Posts
Well...I can tell you OEM mounts cannot handle a dyno tuned odyssey...my brand new expensive OEM mounts lasted me few months lol.
I bought a set for about $100 on ebay and they fit for sh*t. The big silver one in back didn't have the holes deep enough for the bolts to be able to go in far enough on 2 holes, I had to add washers. and then the driver's side transmission one the threaded studs were too long to be able to get the mount in and they were slightly wrong angle to get into holes. I had to trim them down and bend them in towards each other to get them to line up with the holes. Very shortly after install, weird vibration between front 2 seats. I kept looking to see if I forgot to tighten anything up or exhaust loose. Nope, Rear mount completely shredded. I tried the lifetime warranty and I had to remove them and send them back before they would send me another set. How do you do that when the van needs to be driven? I ended up going through some Honda parts sites and got OEM a lot cheaper than at dealer. Put them in and no noise and smooth driving.
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614 Posts
I replaced all my mounts with after market about 4 years ago, they're still doing good. Check out my thread if you care to, I posted some info on it. https://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/49902-05-acm-rear-motor-mount.html#post1232409
I sure wouldn't pay the kind of money you mentioned, and would consider what other folks have mentioned about the muzzler, I'll be doing that when I need to replace these mounts....
I sure wouldn't pay the kind of money you mentioned, and would consider what other folks have mentioned about the muzzler, I'll be doing that when I need to replace these mounts....
I think the main takeaway here is to know that if you have an Odyssey with VCM it has very expensive active engine mounts. If you muzzle the VCM (which everyone should do), when the time comes to replace engine mounts you can install the much less expensive non-active engine mounts. Then you decide whether to buy OEM non-active mounts or aftermarket. In either case the passive mounts are much less money than the active mounts. For me, I would probably go with genuine Honda non-active mounts. For now, my original active mounts are still good and I have muzzled my VCM.
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14,400 Posts
The bottom line is this. If you have a VCM engine it has expensive active motor mounts. The aftermarkets don't last a year in most cases. At this point there are two options if you want them to last. You can replace with OEM which is an expensive proposition. Going aftermarket is high risk and you will likely be doing the job again in a year, as most here who have tried, have had to do. You also need to install a VCM defeat device, i.e. VCMuzzler, MaxMuzzler, or VCMTunerII.
The other option, and the one I'd recommend, is to install the VCMTunerII and then install the standard mounts from the LX and EX models. These mounts will work if you purchase the brackets that go with them. It is significantly less expensive. However, in order to do this you need to disable VCM 100% of the time. The only VCM defeat device of the above that defeats VCM 100% of the time is the VCMTunerII. Once that is installed you do not need the active motor mounts anymore and the standard mounts will work nicely.
The other option, and the one I'd recommend, is to install the VCMTunerII and then install the standard mounts from the LX and EX models. These mounts will work if you purchase the brackets that go with them. It is significantly less expensive. However, in order to do this you need to disable VCM 100% of the time. The only VCM defeat device of the above that defeats VCM 100% of the time is the VCMTunerII. Once that is installed you do not need the active motor mounts anymore and the standard mounts will work nicely.
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19 Posts
So does the Electronic Control Mounting Solenoid (https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2007-honda-odyssey-5dr_ex-ka-5at/engine-mounts.html **See Ref. No 16) need to be added to an EX-L that has passive engine mounts?
I can't tell too well from the EX-L parts diagram but it doesn't look like it has that solenoid.
Mesquite77 also asked this question in this thread https://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2...s/52-2005-2010-odyssey/324802-2007-active-passive-motor-mount-conversion-2.html
I can't tell too well from the EX-L parts diagram but it doesn't look like it has that solenoid.
Mesquite77 also asked this question in this thread https://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2...s/52-2005-2010-odyssey/324802-2007-active-passive-motor-mount-conversion-2.html
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376 Posts
In the end, I just plugged the vacuum connection on the front standard mount, and it has been fine without the solenoid. After more searching, it appears other who have done the swap to regular mounts either didn't even notice it, or just left it unconnected, no bad reports. Does seem odd Honda would have all that extra stuff for the EX vacuum controlled via solenoid mount version, and no one can tell the difference.
A few years ago I bought "Anchor" front and rear mounts from OReilly. At the time they were incredibly cheap (I think ~$60/each), and I thought they had mislabeled EX/LX mounts as EX-L/Tour mounts. Nope...they both have the active plugs. I finally got around to changing the rear mount at 145k miles, and it rumbles a little at idle/stopped, but no problems when on the move and downshifts when slowing down are much less pronounced (less feeling like being "rear ended", but still a little jerky because the tranny / software sucks). I have the ffront mount but haven't had the time to install, and on visual inspection the engine still has a clear gap to the front support so it may be okay...even if internally not as good as a new one.
As advised above, assuming these mounts last about a year or less like many others' experiences, and if I still have the van, I'll install the VCMTunerII and the OEM EX mounts. The Anchor mounts have a lifetime warranty, so I'll probably just end up taking on that warranty and then reselling the replacements.
As advised above, assuming these mounts last about a year or less like many others' experiences, and if I still have the van, I'll install the VCMTunerII and the OEM EX mounts. The Anchor mounts have a lifetime warranty, so I'll probably just end up taking on that warranty and then reselling the replacements.
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19 Posts
Will this throw a CEL since the pigtail/harness for the Active mounts won't be plugged in anywhere?
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376 Posts
No CEL. If you use a high end scanner it will show an open circuit, but nothing emissions or inspection related.
If you want, the resistance on an OE Active mount is 1.5 Ohms or so (I measured the ones I removed), for a 5V input (I think, 12V max), so a 10W resistor could be spliced in, but I have not seen anyone bother.
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