Please Help Me What Does This Mean.....2011 Odyssey EX-L....Big Or Small Repair...Easy Fix???
Thanks In Advance
Thanks In Advance
Petey38
Most likely need to replace this sensor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXCt_qt_2bc&t=3s
Easy fix. Important sensor of the engine.
Easy fix. Important sensor of the engine.
2011-2017 odyssey: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vh-gy_K5o_g
The other link is for the 2005-2010 odyssey. My bad.
The other link is for the 2005-2010 odyssey. My bad.
Woah! Slow down there folks. A DTC does NOT tell you what part to change. Rreplacing an O2 sensor is just a guess and may be a total waste of money. P0171 means the computer is correcting for a lean condition on bank 1 (the rear bank.) A lean condition can be caused by any number of things. It could be a vacuum leak, it could be a Mass airflow sensor, it could be low fuel pressure, it could be lots of things.
We need a lot more info. What kind of miles on the van? Are there any other codes besides P0171? It will take a scan tool and looking at some live data to determine the issue and why it's running lean. If you don't have that capability then I'd recommend getting a diagnostic done on it BEFORE replacing ANYTHING. Often times parts are replaced, that don't need replacing, and end up getting replaced with low quality and even non-working aftermarket parts, causing the issue to get worse before getting better.
We need a lot more info. What kind of miles on the van? Are there any other codes besides P0171? It will take a scan tool and looking at some live data to determine the issue and why it's running lean. If you don't have that capability then I'd recommend getting a diagnostic done on it BEFORE replacing ANYTHING. Often times parts are replaced, that don't need replacing, and end up getting replaced with low quality and even non-working aftermarket parts, causing the issue to get worse before getting better.
I see you're in NYC. There's a guy on Staten Island who runs a diagnostic business called New Level Auto. He has a YouTube channel but runs a legitimate diagnostic business. I don't know what he charges but he is one of the best. Pay him, or someone like him, to diagnose it and then do what he recommends.
With that kind of mileage my first guess would not be an O2 sensor. It very well could be but that's not the first guess. Have you done spark plugs on this van? They were due at 105K along with your timing belt service.
The first thing I'd do with this vehicle is plug in a scan tool and take a look at fuel trims to see the extent of the lean condition and see if it's happening on the other bank but just not to the extent of setting a code or if the problem is really localized to bank 1.
There's just a lot more to it than throwing an O2 sensor at it. Besides, if you're going to throw an O2 at it you might as well throw both upstream and downstream O2 on that bank at it since both contribute to fuel strategy on these vans. I would also check the intake tube that goes from the air filter box to the intake manifold. I've seen jiffy lube places leave those loose and cause lean conditions.
The first thing I'd do with this vehicle is plug in a scan tool and take a look at fuel trims to see the extent of the lean condition and see if it's happening on the other bank but just not to the extent of setting a code or if the problem is really localized to bank 1.
There's just a lot more to it than throwing an O2 sensor at it. Besides, if you're going to throw an O2 at it you might as well throw both upstream and downstream O2 on that bank at it since both contribute to fuel strategy on these vans. I would also check the intake tube that goes from the air filter box to the intake manifold. I've seen jiffy lube places leave those loose and cause lean conditions.
Does your scan tool display live data? I'd like to know what the short term fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trim (LTFT) numbers are at idle and at 3000 RPM.
I had the same problem in my girlfriends Chevy Cruze the other day. I added some redline fuel cleaner a week or so earlier and on her second tank of regular gas it threw a code, obviously the computers are pretty sensitive and try to adjust the fuel air trim ratios etc on the fly and sometimes they can get out of whack.
It might be something quite small please keep us posted.
It might be something quite small please keep us posted.
That will definitely cause lean codes if there is a mass airflow sensor before that tube. Those tubes are common failures.
Lean codes are two trip detection so it takes two consecutive failures to turn on the light even though the code may be pending.
Additionally, 2012 and newer cars will store the code for 50 or more drive cycles even after you clear the code.
The best thing to do is look at your fuel trims before and after the repair to know if you've fixed the problem.
Lean codes are two trip detection so it takes two consecutive failures to turn on the light even though the code may be pending.
Additionally, 2012 and newer cars will store the code for 50 or more drive cycles even after you clear the code.
The best thing to do is look at your fuel trims before and after the repair to know if you've fixed the problem.
All these scan tools can lie. Don't take everything it says as literal. Take a look at the fuel trims before replacement then after replacement.
There is a lot at play here. Vacuum leaks are worse at idle than at higher rpm. However, a crack like that can sometimes seal itself depending on engine rpm and load. The tube will flex as the engine is put under load and the crack will open and close. You may see variations in fuel trims and the light may come and go.
There is a lot at play here. Vacuum leaks are worse at idle than at higher rpm. However, a crack like that can sometimes seal itself depending on engine rpm and load. The tube will flex as the engine is put under load and the crack will open and close. You may see variations in fuel trims and the light may come and go.
part came today, and I just put it in. I looked at the fuel trims with it idling in the driveway before and after, not sure if you need to drive it around at all to get more accurate numbers, but this is what I see. The short term fuel trim numbers went from reading +6 to +14% before putting in the new hose (left) to -1 to -5 after (right):
![154111]( "154111")
![154112]( "154112")
Does that mean it's running slightly rich now? What are normal numbers to see here?
The codes are still there, I'm going to wait and see if they clear after a few drive cycles, if not I'll clear them and check they don't come back.
Does that mean it's running slightly rich now? What are normal numbers to see here?
The codes are still there, I'm going to wait and see if they clear after a few drive cycles, if not I'll clear them and check they don't come back.
I agree with the above. It looks like a fix to me. Short term fuel trims will move the other direction on order to bring the long terms back toward zero. You can clear the codes or leave it. If the light stays out then it's fixed. It takes long term fuel trims above 20% to set a code.
Thanks guys, I cleared the codes and long term trims are reset to 0 now and short term trims showing in the 0-3% range.
I still find it weird that the light was already out, but the current fault codes were still there. The CEL came on for only one day while my wife was driving it, but by the time she got home it was off. The codes were still there (a week later) showing as current up until I cleared them. I'm guessing that when the tube initially ripped, the long term trims spiked up enough to trigger the code and CEL, but since it was a small enough leak the computer was able to adjust and it turned the light out.. Either that or there was another code that triggered the light, yet cleared itself before I was able to scan it. I've just never seen current fault codes trigger the light then the light goes out without the codes going to pending or historical.
![154119]( "154119")
I still find it weird that the light was already out, but the current fault codes were still there. The CEL came on for only one day while my wife was driving it, but by the time she got home it was off. The codes were still there (a week later) showing as current up until I cleared them. I'm guessing that when the tube initially ripped, the long term trims spiked up enough to trigger the code and CEL, but since it was a small enough leak the computer was able to adjust and it turned the light out.. Either that or there was another code that triggered the light, yet cleared itself before I was able to scan it. I've just never seen current fault codes trigger the light then the light goes out without the codes going to pending or historical.
You're putting too much emphasis on the word "current." In my experience it means nothing. All these scan tools are made in China and you cannot trust everything you read on them. Some cars will have pending codes that show up under stored codes.
Most likely it was only bad enough to set the code at certain engine load conditions where the engine moved enough to open the Crack to wide enough to go above the threshold. It will set a code the first time it sees it but won't turn on the light until it sees it again. If in another key cycle or two it doesn't see it it will turn off the light but leave the code.
If you had the factory Honda scan tool you'd likely see everything under the right headings.
Lastly, on 2012 and newer cars even though you've cleared the codes they are still stored in a history that you cannot clear until the vehicle goes through some high number of successful drive cycles...something like 50 drive cycles. Some scan tools will see that and some won't. Again, witthh aftermarket scan tools you have to take the info with a grain of salt in many cases. They all can/will lie in many cases.
Most likely it was only bad enough to set the code at certain engine load conditions where the engine moved enough to open the Crack to wide enough to go above the threshold. It will set a code the first time it sees it but won't turn on the light until it sees it again. If in another key cycle or two it doesn't see it it will turn off the light but leave the code.
If you had the factory Honda scan tool you'd likely see everything under the right headings.
Lastly, on 2012 and newer cars even though you've cleared the codes they are still stored in a history that you cannot clear until the vehicle goes through some high number of successful drive cycles...something like 50 drive cycles. Some scan tools will see that and some won't. Again, witthh aftermarket scan tools you have to take the info with a grain of salt in many cases. They all can/will lie in many cases.
I'm using the Torque app and bluetooth dongle, and in my experience the status of the fault codes has always been accurate. It tells you whether the code is current, pending or historical. I guess it's possible that it can't tell the difference between current and pending for this car, but that would be strange since that is the standard way of storing the fault codes.
Here is what it looked like before I cleared the codes, and no check engine light on:
![154129]( "154129")
and now it shows no codes at all after clearing:
![154127]( "154127")
I know it can at least read historical codes, because when my evap canister got flooded (the only other time I needed to scan codes on this car), the code for that stuck around in historical for a while even after I replaced the canister and cleared the codes:
![154128]( "154128")
Here is what it looked like before I cleared the codes, and no check engine light on:
and now it shows no codes at all after clearing:
I know it can at least read historical codes, because when my evap canister got flooded (the only other time I needed to scan codes on this car), the code for that stuck around in historical for a while even after I replaced the canister and cleared the codes:
Again, scan tools are great devices and give you valuable information but don't take them as 100% accurate for every detail. All the apps and scan tools use the same data from the car and many of them use the same pirated reverse engineered software to read the car's data. They don't always have the software correct. The only 100% trustworthy scan tool for a Honda is the HDS.
It's called two-trip detection. The following is right from the 2012 service manual, "Two Drive Cycle Detection Method: When an abnormality occurs in the signal from a sensor or from another control unit in the first drive cycle, the PCM stores a Pending DTC. The MIL does not come on at this time. If the failure continues in the second drive cycle, the PCM stores a Confirmed DTC and turns on the MIL." P0171 and P0174 are two drive cyelc codes. If the computer sees the code once it will put it in pending status and not turn on the light. It may stay in the "current" section since it did turn on the light at one time. If it sees it on the next drive cycle it will turn on the light. If the light was out then it had not seen it in at least two consecutive drive cycles. Generally, two trip detection codes will turn out the light if the PCM doesn't see the fault for three or more drive cycles or sometimes even just key cycles. With the intermittent nature of the failure (the crack in the boot) it's not surprising that it wouldn't see high fuel trims above the threshold for the code, all the time.
It's called two-trip detection. The following is right from the 2012 service manual, "Two Drive Cycle Detection Method: When an abnormality occurs in the signal from a sensor or from another control unit in the first drive cycle, the PCM stores a Pending DTC. The MIL does not come on at this time. If the failure continues in the second drive cycle, the PCM stores a Confirmed DTC and turns on the MIL." P0171 and P0174 are two drive cyelc codes. If the computer sees the code once it will put it in pending status and not turn on the light. It may stay in the "current" section since it did turn on the light at one time. If it sees it on the next drive cycle it will turn on the light. If the light was out then it had not seen it in at least two consecutive drive cycles. Generally, two trip detection codes will turn out the light if the PCM doesn't see the fault for three or more drive cycles or sometimes even just key cycles. With the intermittent nature of the failure (the crack in the boot) it's not surprising that it wouldn't see high fuel trims above the threshold for the code, all the time.
Hello all. 2011 Ody EX-L. purchased Sept 2020 at one-owner 85,000 miles, now 106885 miles. Always use Top Tier gas. Timing belt, water pump, OEM plugs at 103000 miles. Recently after a 50 mile highway drive, started engine to return home, CEL appeared. Stayed on during the return trip. Next morning, on engine start, CEL was out. Checked code at O'Reillys, got P0171 (1/2) lean bank 1. Called my trusted mechanic to make appointment. He said first try fuel injector cleaner. Fill tank - drive awhile, see if CEL stays off. Thoughts?
The "1/2" usually means that's 1 of 2 codes that are stored. Was P0174 also stored? It's important to know if it's lean on only one bank or both.
First thing I'd check is the big air intake tube between the air filter and the throttle body. Look on top and bottom for any splits in the rubber tube.
First thing I'd check is the big air intake tube between the air filter and the throttle body. Look on top and bottom for any splits in the rubber tube.
Thank you. Big air intake tube split wide open, 1/16" wide, top half of circumference right at the connection to the intake. Terrible design. I came out of the plastics molding industry, and plastic was never meant to be applied like that with stress molded in, eventually splitting open!! Picking up Dorman 606-020. While at it, also air filter.
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