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Battery Died Now Power Sliding Doors Don't Work-Fuse tricks don't help

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#21 ·
I will work on that. For the other door that is currently working, is there a way to get it to manually operate now before this happens again? I'd rather not have to get into the cabling if I can help it. Do you have specific steps on how to make the doors operate manually under normal circumstances?
 
#22 ·
If you want to use it manually, turn off the master power door switch on the dash and move the door manually. There is a clutch inside the door motor and that switch will disengage that clutch and make it easier to move the door manually, although there is still some resistance from the cables.

There are no "official" steps to convert it to a manual door. The van is not designed to do that. There's nothing stopping your from cutting the cables on the other side too, but you can't make the computer forget that it has power doors. The light on the dash will always be on.
 
#23 ·
Yeah I might just have a special problem with my doors as neither of them have closed manually when I turned the master power door switch off. They are always so hard to move and even when I have the handle pulled, I can't even jerk it loose to start opening or closing it, no matter how much strength I put behind it. That's why I'm wondering if there's another issue than just wiring for my door because both my wife and I have tried everything to get it to move and my dad and brother and law put as much weight into opening the door ourselves last night for 30 mins and couldn't get it to budge. Don't know if you've ever experienced anything like that before because not being able to get it manually open like we have is a serious safety concern for us especially with young kids in the back if we can't get them out in case of an emergency.
 
#24 ·
The one door still works with the power motor? If so, stop it halfway (just press the opposite direction button while it's still moving) and then turn off the master switch and try to move it manually. If you can move there, but cannot move it from the fully open or fully closed positions, then maybe it's a problem with the handle not unlatching it. (it gets latched in both the fully closed and fully opened positions).
 
#25 ·
cybersaga said:
I'm guessing you're the one that asked about this on my YouTube video yesterday?

To move the door manually, you turn off the master power door switch on the dash, then pull on the door handle to make sure it's unlatched from the fully open position, and pull the door closed. If it won't move, then the cable is jammed inside the motor and you will need to either cut the cable, or open up the motor to free the cable. But if the cable is jammed up, then the cable is trash anyway, so you may as well cut it.
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While this is true, if the center roller assembly is missing one or both of the plastic rollers, the pins that the rollers sit on will dig in to the track and also prevent the door from moving (had this happen a month ago but I knew what was going on with it). Before you cut the cables please inspect the center rollers.
 
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#26 ·
FWIW, in my many years on this forum I've learned that most people regret cutting the door cables. Proceed with caution and wisdom.
 
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#27 ·
Well we took the back bracket off and you are exactly right. BOTH of the rubber circular guides on the top were completely gone which is also why our door won't struggled to open and close electronically but also won't shut manually because it's just grinding up against the inside of the track. So I need to replace that bracket on both doors because they appear to be in the same shape. In terms of the cable, we did get into the paneling on the inside of the passenger side of the van and got down to the actual motor and coil to which we found that the wire were snapped and was jumping out of the circular mechanism that houses it. I'm tempted to test the motor to see if only the cable needs replaced but I've found a full motor assembly complete with cables and wiring hooked up online so I'm considering just getting that to replace it entirely.
 
#29 ·
jburt86 said:
Does anyone by chance happen to have a video or steps that show how to replace the motor assembly on the passenger side of the back of the van?
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South Main Auto has a great one:

The passenger side is somewhat more difficult because you have to undo the HVAC box to have access.

If you found a somewhat cheap motor and cable assembly, and don't want to go through the hassle of replacing the cables only (for the passenger side, the easiest way is to just completely take out the motor anyway), keeping in mind that you can get premade cables for ~$50, then I'd go ahead and replace the whole thing.
 
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#30 ·
Good thing you found the bad rollers before snipping cables. I had forgotten about those.

And I agree - it is much easier to replace the whole motor assembly than to replace just the cable, as long as you found the whole assembly for a price you don't mind paying.
 
#31 ·
Just last Friday afternoon I got home, opened the left sliding door, and went to close it and it would continually go about 1/2 way and reverse. I could close it a little bit further manually, but it was still open a few inches. I didn't have time to deal with it, and couldn't park it inside so I dropped it at a shop I use.

The problem was one side of the cable broke and jammed up the mechanism. Not wanting to pay nearly $1000 between parts (whole motor / cable assembly) and labor, I had them make it manual, which as I understand they cut the cable. I'm fine with how it works, but have the " i " light / "check left sliding door message" all the time. Does this cause any issues?
 
#32 ·
I believe that code gets triggered any time the computer tries to run the motor and finds that the motor isn't moving for whatever reason, as an effort to protect the motor.
 
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#33 ·
I just removed the busted cable from the motor assembly but wanted to test it just to see if the motor needed replaced as well. Is there a way to test the motor even though the cable isn't in there? The slide door light was on, I removed the #7 amp from the fuse panel which turned off the light. I turned on the power door switch and pressed both door buttons but it didn't turn on in any way. Worked fine for the other door i'm currently not working on. Any ideas on if I missed something or if there's another way to test the motor once it's plugged back in?
 
#35 ·
IF you cut the cables, don't turn the motor back on. It will eat them up and ruin your pulley. Once you replace the cables, you have to home the door. You can see on a certain someone's website. I am not going to post a link as I can get banned for that because it is mine.
 
#36 ·
John Clark said:
Glad it's working. Keep an eye on them, though. Again, when the base position switches stick (very common) in the latches it will put a slow drain on your battery. If you don't drive it for several days and you find the battery low or dead, you likely have sticking switches or sticky latches that actuate the switches. If you find any of the doors not working again that's what I would suspect.
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I have tried all of that on my 2005 honda odyssey exl and replaced almost everything and it's like they are still dead help
 
#38 ·
I have replaced almost everything in the back of both sides. Even the rollers and stop sensors and both actuators on both doors and motors and have reset the fuses so many times it isn't funny sound and even replaced battery in key fob and it still sounds dead and no codes
 
#39 ·
Jennifer 69 said:
I have replaced almost everything in the back of both sides. Even the rollers and stop sensors and both actuators on both doors and motors and have reset the fuses so many times it isn't funny sound and even replaced battery in key fob and it still sounds dead and no codes
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What about the rear latches? Were those replaced?
That is the most common issue with the sliding doors.
 
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