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Vtec Solenoid leaking (onto alternator)

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fatboym

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Just got back from the mechanic who wants 480 to fix the leaking vtec solenoid on to the new alternator.
Looking to do this myself, and based upon the research, I had a couple of questions:
  1. Is there anything else aside from the gasket that could be leaking? Should I replace the whole thing or just the gasket? I haven't had a chance to trace exactly where the leak is and want to order parts
  2. The dealer wants four hours of labor? Seems like it should take an hour?
  3. Am I ordering left or right side, given its on the passenger side?
Thanks.
 
#2 ·
480 is not totally unreasonable for that although the book says 0.8 in labor.
the part is almost 100 bux alone, labor, tax.

for accuracy in responses, its always good to start out with year and model.

This issue hits all years of the Gen 4.

see attached for details.

pay close attention to the note in Step 3 if youre doing it yourself.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
It's easy with patience and being careful not to drop the bolt you have to feel for. Use dormant kit 917-268 (I think) and go ahead and change both gaskets (honda does not sell the internal gasket only dormant. Take the breather hoses and stuff in your way off to get to it better. Don't over tighten it.
 
#4 ·
GoHerdMan said:
It's easy with patience and being careful not to drop the bolt you have to feel for. Use dormant kit 917-268 (I think) and go ahead and change both gaskets (honda does not sell the internal gasket only dormant. Take the breather hoses and stuff in your way off to get to it better. Don't over tighten it.
Click to expand...
this is the left one above the alternator, not the right.

am partial to intermotor / standard replacements over dorman or cardone.

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www.rockauto.com
 
#7 ·
GoHerdMan said:
If they started making gaskets go for it...dorman was the only making both a couple years ago
Click to expand...
you can get gaskets for it, others have posted the generic part number here and the results may vary.
The TSB attached mentions replacing only the gasket will result in comebacks.

its safer to just change the whole thing with metal plate and gasket, instead of risking another leak.
 
#9 ·
2011.2017.odyssey said:
480 is not totally unreasonable for that although the book says 0.8 in labor.
the part is almost 100 bux alone, labor, tax.
Click to expand...
Where do you live that $380 is not unreasonable for an hour of labor plus tax?
 
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#13 · (Edited)
There are 2 areas that can cause the leak, 1) the RTV gasket maker applied at the factory for the lower control valve 2) the rubber gaskets b/w the lower and upper control valve.
Generally its #2 gaskets, there are posts on success with aftermarket gaskets, and some without - I haven't heard of any failures with OEM, but you're paying for the whole unit.

As mentioned by others above, if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and have some patience this can be done easily (the passenger side that is).
I replaced my with 10$ amazon special, and it was junk. The motor when into limp mode with misfiring and low oil pressure codes when at highway speeds. I suspect it was due to the wire mesh not being to spec and restricting oil flow. I put the OEM ones back in and still monitoring things.
As @2011.2017.odyssey posted the TSB, ensure you torque the bolts to the proper spec.

Try to locate the leak, clean the area away from the upper control valve meets the lower. If its leaking there, you'll see a build up of dirt and such after a few days.

The four hours labour they quoted is likely to change the whole assembly, which is more involved.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the help everyone!
This is a 2012 EX-L, 191k miles
Looks like its the passenger side. I took a quick look this morning, and it looks like there is grime on the upper assembly. I think to be safe and given people's warning about replacing the gasket only, I'm going to order an OEM and replace the whole thing. Though i think I saw somewhere they're selling OEM gaskets, but it looks like there is grime on top too so its leaking somewhere aside from the gasket between the two). I'll take a photo later and post.
480 for replacing the whole thing. He said 4 hours of labor - in Boston.
Jon
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
2011.2017.odyssey said:
480 is not totally unreasonable for that although the book says 0.8 in labor.
the part is almost 100 bux alone, labor, tax.

for accuracy in responses, its always good to start out with year and model.

This issue hits all years of the Gen 4.

see attached for details.

pay close attention to the note in Step 3 if youre doing it yourself.
Click to expand...
Thanks! super helpful!!
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
thanks everyone for your help.
I was able to replace the entire upper assembly with the dorman unit following this procedure.
I was careful to re-torque at 6 ft-lbs
When assembling I made the mistake of not connecting one of the harnesses (upper right small one) and started the car. It died, I plugged it in, it started and drove it a couple miles.
Problem: CEL and traction control lights are on now. I was wondering if this is related to the connection I didn't plug back in. How do I reset? Do I need a reset tool? I some of my cars, I can just disconnect the negative line.
Or is this something else?
Appreciate any help!
Jon
 
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