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Vtec Solenoid leaking (onto alternator)

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#21 ·
With scan tools that can reset selling for ~$20, if you own a car, you should own a tool.

How long did it take you?
 
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#23 ·
fatboym said:
thanks everyone for your help.
I was able to replace the entire upper assembly with the dorman unit following this procedure.
I was careful to re-torque at 6 ft-lbs
When assembling I made the mistake of not connecting one of the harnesses (upper right small one) and started the car. It died, I plugged it in, it started and drove it a couple miles.
Problem: CEL and traction control lights are on now. I was wondering if this is related to the connection I didn't plug back in. How do I reset? Do I need a reset tool? I some of my cars, I can just disconnect the negative line.
Or is this something else?
Appreciate any help!
Jon
Click to expand...
if you got the part at autozone, they can scan and clear the code...
 
Discussion starter · #24 · (Edited)
Thanks.. I went to disconnect the battery but found that the CEL and the traction control lights were cleared. The guy who did the video strongly recommended getting the OEM part, said the Dorman will fail. So I guess I'm doing this again next weekend.

Ted said:
With scan tools that can reset selling for ~$20, if you own a car, you should own a tool.

How long did it take you?
Click to expand...
I've been wanting to get a reset/reader tool but appreciate any brand recommendations.
Didn't time it exactly, probably no more than an hour and a quarter. This included dropping a bolt and digging around for 20 minutes. Doing it again, probably 30 minutes. .... I'll time it next time.
 
#25 ·
fatboym said:
Thanks.. I went to disconnect the battery but found that the CEL and the traction control lights were cleared. The guy who did the video strongly recommended getting the OEM part, said the Dorman will fail. So I guess I'm doing this again next weekend.


I've been wanting to get a reset/reader tool but appreciate any brand recommendations.
Didn't time it exactly, probably no more than an hour and a quarter. This included dropping a bolt and digging around for 20 minutes. Doing it again, probably 30 minutes. .... I'll time it next time.
Click to expand...
I bought a ThinkCar 1S scanner. It was only $26 on Amazon when I bought it in August. It's a super slow scan tool but it'll read every module on your car. I use it on my son's 2006 Pilot EX (2WD) that has 209k miles on it. It takes 8 to 10 minutes to do a full scan. It gives you a full report when done with the scan. It gives live data, a feature called black box and other features. It's worth a look. I gave it 3 stars because of how slow it is, but it'll give you lots of data. Some folks are reporting the software is slow as well. There are a lot of scanners out there but very few that give you as much data, and reads every module, at a sub $100 price point. I dislike how slow it is, but it's helped me resolve the DTCs we'd been getting. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087QC363S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
#26 ·
chicagobenny said:
I bought a ThinkCar 1S scanner. It was only $26 on Amazon when I bought it in August. It's a super slow scan tool but it'll read every module on your car. I use it on my son's 2006 Pilot EX (2WD) that has 209k miles on it. It takes 8 to 10 minutes to do a full scan. It gives you a full report when done with the scan. It gives live data, a feature called black box and other features. It's worth a look. I gave it 3 stars because of how slow it is, but it'll give you lots of data. Some folks are reporting the software is slow as well. There are a lot of scanners out there but very few that give you as much data, and reads every module, at a sub $100 price point. I dislike how slow it is, but it's helped me resolve the DTCs we'd been getting. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087QC363S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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does it read transmission temperatures running temperatures?
I was looking at the scangauge for this, but they are pricey.
 
#27 ·
I've never looked at the transmission data. And currently the rear cylinder cover is off the pilot while I replace the rocker shaft holder, so I can't scan the car and tell you right now. But in the Q&A section on amazon, one of the users said that it can read trans temp.
 
#28 · (Edited)
One other thing. I believe that certain years of the Odyssey EXL (2005-07?) have the same J35Z1 engine as my son's 2006 Pilot EX 2wd. Or at least an engine that is similar enough that I can cross shop used parts. So this may be of interest to some members.

I replaced the gasket on the VTEC solenoid this summer because it was leaking. After a few months, I saw I was still getting an oil leak from the solenoid. I removed it from the cylinder head again, thoroughly wiped it down and put it on my work bench, gasket side up while I cleaned oil from the engine. The next time I picked it up, there was oil dripping down a couple sides. I wiped it down again thinking oil was leaking from the top and let it sit, again gasket/filter side up. I came back to it later and there was oil down the sides again.

I guessed the solenoid had an internal leak. Out of curiosity, I removed the three bolts holding the two halves of the solenoid together. If it wasn't serviceable, and I broke it by removing the bolts and taking it apart, it didn't matter because it had an internal leak and I would need to replace it anyway. Turns out there's an internal gasket. Also turns out that Dorman makes a gasket set for this particular solenoid. It's part number 917-268. It has the external gasket and the internal gasket. If the internal gasket works, it'll have saved me over $400. I have no information whether other VTEC solenoids are internally serviceable. Not sure if someone posted this info already, but I figured I would share my photo. His Pilot will only be driven about 6 miles or so per day to and from school. It might be a while before I know if this internal gasket is any good in the long term.

158870
 
#30 ·
GoHerdMan said:
Yeah I used 917-268 dorman on my 2006 about three years ago and no leaks.
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Just keep in mind that gasket does not work on the 2008-2017 VCM II engines.

-Charlie
 
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#32 ·
Had the piston ring bulletin completed in 2016 and just noticed the front VTEC solenoid has begun leaking, I guess when the dealership did the rings they used Honda gasket compound. Went to the dealer and these seals are not offered in California. Glad eBay has the gaskets, any ideas on how to clean the alternator? Thanks all for the assistance.
 
#33 ·
Odidude said:
Had the piston ring bulletin completed in 2016 and just noticed the front VTEC solenoid has begun leaking, I guess when the dealership did the rings they used Honda gasket compound. Went to the dealer and these seals are not offered in California. Glad eBay has the gaskets, any ideas on how to clean the alternator? Thanks all for the assistance.
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gaskets are not the recommended method for fixing this.
lots of those ebay and amazon replacements don't last a week or a couple months.
results may vary, read the reviews on amazon, lots of complaints of leaks after replacement.

The entire part is less than 100 bux on rockatuo... dont chance wasting your time doing it twice to save a little money.
your call...

regarding cleaning the alternator, best to just leave it alone.
wipe it down with a rag, maybe some compressed air on it, and leave it be.
de-greaser and hosing it down with water will certainly kill it.
 
#34 ·
I guess I just disagree. I found taking out the solenoid to be fairly easy. So if you feel it's worth saving 100-200 go for it. Again dorman and I've been using high mileage oil and 0 issues in three years. I would do it again with no hesitation
 
#35 ·
see the attachment for removal instructions...
Odidude said:
Had the piston ring bulletin completed in 2016 and just noticed the front VTEC solenoid has begun leaking, I guess when the dealership did the rings they used Honda gasket compound. Went to the dealer and these seals are not offered in California. Glad eBay has the gaskets, any ideas on how to clean the alternator? Thanks all for the assistance.
Click to expand...
this post has the removal instructions attached, along with torque specs, with the warning in point 3 that changing only the gasket could result in a leak and comeback.
www.odyclub.com

Vtec Solenoid leaking (onto alternator)

Just got back from the mechanic who wants 480 to fix the leaking vtec solenoid on to the new alternator. Looking to do this myself, and based upon the research, I had a couple of questions: Is there anything else aside from the gasket that could be leaking? Should I replace the whole thing...
www.odyclub.com www.odyclub.com
 
#36 ·
I just battled the same oil leak and here is what I discovered.

The Amazon gaskets are not the same density as the OEM. Replacing them fixed the leak, but caused P3497 code. I had both oil pressure sensors (blue) replaced with the updated (tan) ones and the computer re-mapped. No help. Disassembled the valve completely and everything moves smooth and is squeaky clean. P3497 again. I was torquing the bolts to 8.7 ftlbs or 104 inlbs per honda spec. I suspected the new gaskets were not compressing like the oem and were causing the valve body to deform just enough to cause the spool valve to stick. I re-torqued to 65 inlbs and no code for a week. The valve was seeping oil a bit, so I torqued them to the factory spec and the P3497 came back two miles into my drive. Ordered the oem part and the gaskets are not as hard as the amazon ones. Installed new oem valve assembly and gaskets, and no more leaks or codes. I assume multiple Chinese factories are copying the oem gaskets and it's luck of the draw weather you get a good or bad set of them. I noticed several folks get the P3497 code after replacing the gaskets. The lesson to be learned here is that oem parts are the best (not cheapest) solution.
 
#37 ·
Torque spec on the bolts (assuming you’re taking off the top half of the assembly) is 6 ft-lbs (72 inch pounds). Honda has so many parts are 8.7 ft-lbs, so it’s very easy to get confused!
 
#38 ·
gofastinc said:
The lesson to be learned here is that oem parts are the best (not cheapest) solution.
Click to expand...
It is almost like there is a specific TSB that covers this issue!

:unsure:

-Charlie
 
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#40 ·
While driving through the Arizona desert last month the engine light came on, no ECO mode. Took the van to the nearest dealership. Verified concerns got P3497 VPS bank two stuck off, both banks replace with updated sensors $$. Back on the road, finished college tour. The gaskets I changed earlier looked to be sealed OEM parts from Japan, matched the shape, but harder density could've been the difference. Thanks all, buyer beware on eBay.
 
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