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Also, I seem to remember you can get a check engine light if you connect one of these devices on a warm engine. I'm not clear about how one could use a switch on one of these units without setting one. Are the electronics on them more sophisticated than the resister ones?
With S-VCM you would re-enable VCM by disconnecting the wire from the + battery terminal (physically disconnecting, using a switch, removing fuse). It would stay wired in between ECT1 and the cars' wiring harness, so it should not trigger a code / CEL.

Similarly, with VCMTuner II you could re-enable VCM by grounding a green wire to the chassis (physically or using a switch). It also would remain wired between the ECT1 and wiring harness and should not trigger a CEL either.

Finally, yes these are more sophisticated than the resistor ones. In normal operation, they will always indicate a temperature of about 162F unless they detect and overheating condition, in which case the actual resistance for the temperature sensor will be passed to the computer and register on the dash gauge. The resistor muzzlers are passive and the same resistance is always added to the actual ECT1 resistance so even in an overheating condition, the computer will believe the temperature is lower than it actually is. I noted with the VCMTuner II when it sat for over 2 minutes running when fully warmed up, my OBDII scan tool showed the temperature increased by 36F (162F to 198F) but there was no change in the temperature gauge needle position.

I kind of disagree with your first statement. VCM may not be active for as long of time periods, it will still go back and forth turning on and off cylinders which can impact the active engine mounts. In this scenario, VCM probably is having very little benefit for improved fuel economy, so I suspect you are better just leaving it disabled.
 
No no - you've got it backwards. You have to disconnect the muzzle device for the idle relearn to happen. The idle relearn process is part of a few different repair/maintenance procedures like throttle body cleaning, coolant replacement and some others - it's not caused by connecting or disconnecting a VCM disable device and it's not something that has to be done frequently (or at least you'd hope not).

One of the prerequisites of this idle relearn process is for the engine to be fully warmed up. So as long as a VCM disable device is active and functioning, the idle relearn can't happen because the PCM never gets a high enough temperature reading to know it's OK to start the process. So when an idle relearn is part of the service that is going to be done to your van, the VCM disable device needs to be disconnected or turned off, one way or another. The VCMTuner II can turn itself off automatically because it can tell when the van has been stationary for more than two minutes, which its programming interprets as a sign that the van is being worked on. The S-VCM controller cannot turn itself off - it requires someone to actually either pull out the inline fuse (which they now seem to come with) or flick the switch (if equipped) or undo the connection to the battery terminal. But with either of them (S-VCM or VCMTuner II), the process of shutting off the disable device shouldn't cause errors.
Idle relearn, will this just naturally happen? I read online in other places you need to rev up to 3K rpm and the fans are suppose toturn on .... I just did a TB job, replaced coolant, and disconnected battery when doing the thermostat...
 
Idle relearn is only required after a throttle body cleaning or replacement.

-Charlie
I heard if you unplug your battery or replace engine coolant.. which i both did ... so
See pst 3, OP said it should relearn automatically... this was also for an older Odyssey, is this needed for a 2013?

 
There are seemingly a million "manual" ways out there to do the idle relearn. But when you do need to do it, you have to use a scan tool.
 
I am trying to decide which one to get, S-VCM vs VCM Tuner II. I am kind of new to this idea...

Is there a chance that the engine will be overheated and I won't see the actual temperature (on the temperature gauge)?
Or the fan won't kick in?

Once a while during the summer time the van can idle (parked) with ac on for 15-20 minutes.
 
I am trying to decide which one to get, S-VCM vs VCM Tuner II. I am kind of new to this idea...

Is there a chance that the engine will be overheated and I won't see the actual temperature (on the temperature gauge)?
Or the fan won't kick in?

Once a while during the summer time the van can idle (parked) with ac on for 15-20 minutes.
These questions have been asked and answered in the VCM sticky thread. The short answer is no, not with the SVCM and VCMTunerII. I prefer the VCMTunerII as I think it does a better job but I believe both have a provision in them to report actual temp over a certain threshold.
 
I am trying to decide which one to get, S-VCM vs VCM Tuner II. I am kind of new to this idea...

Is there a chance that the engine will be overheated and I won't see the actual temperature (on the temperature gauge)?
Or the fan won't kick in?

Once a while during the summer time the van can idle (parked) with ac on for 15-20 minutes.
That is the point of both of those, reporting actual temps in a (rare) overheat situation. Even the dumb ones still show engine temp, just offset. The best way to keep a Honda from overheating is to leave the coolant alone until scheduled replacement and then only use real Honda long life coolant.

John Clark: Does the ECU set codes for failing electric cooling fans?
 
I guess all people who purchased S-VCM, purchased it from svcmcontroller.com, right?
Is it the correct website? Looks a bit weird, just one page, no contact us, nothing, except "buy now".
That's the one and only place to get it and the whole ordering process is easy as pie, especially since you're in Canada.

The website isn't weird - it's just very simple and functional and not flashy. A lot like the S-VCM Controller itself.
 
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