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CV Axle Replacement Preferred Method

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allenjpl

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've got quite the shudder going under acceleration. I rotated and balanced the tires, then took an extra long look at the CV boot. Yep, it's torn, and there seems to be play there. Time to replace the axle.

After extensive forum searching and watching many a Youtube video, it really seems as if there are two ways to go about this. One is the method recommended in the service guides, and that is to disconnect the tie rod and the lower ball joint. The other is to remove the two bolts on the upper strut. Either method will let you move the hub out of the way and pry the axle out.

The second method seems to be easier, but will likely require an alignment afterwards. Disconnecting the ball joint without damaging it seems to be harder, but no alignment necessary.

What's your preferred method? I haven't done this before, so I don't know how long I should expect to take. Am I really just overthinking a process that will only take me a couple of hours anyway, or does the choice of method have a major effect on the job?
 
#3 ·
Recommend that you do both sides and install genuine Honda axles. About $200 each from discount places such as Majestic or Bernardi.
 
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#4 ·
allenjpl said:
After extensive forum searching and watching many a Youtube video, it really seems as if there are two ways to go about this. One is the method recommended in the service guides, and that is to disconnect the tie rod and the lower ball joint. The other is to remove the two bolts on the upper strut. Either method will let you move the hub out of the way and pry the axle out.

The second method seems to be easier, but will likely require an alignment afterwards. Disconnecting the ball joint without damaging it seems to be harder, but no alignment necessary.
Click to expand...
Why would the second method require alignment?
I had GREAT difficulty last time undoing lower ball joint and that was about 60k miles ago so if anything I would suggest that you do the second method.
 
#7 ·
Second method is good and support that with your floor jack.
As for overthinking time, subjective. It depends on axle being nice to you and you not having any other problems or tool issues.
 
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#10 ·
Strut bolt is the way to go. No alignment needed and you don’t ruin your bell joint rubber boot in the process. Also you can have someone turn the steering wheel to help move the hub in and out when removing the axle.
 
#12 ·
I’ve replaced my driver side CV axle twice and both times used the strut bolt removal method. I was too worried I would bust the ball joint boot trying that method. I can always get a bolt out reliably.

First time I did it, I had no issues removing the axle from the transmission with prying it out. Second time I had to cut the boot and rig up a contraption with lockable pliers and threaded rod in order to pull it out of the transmission. Of course you’ll have this potential issue regardless of which option you chose.
 
#13 ·
allenjpl said:
I've got quite the shudder going under acceleration. I rotated and balanced the tires, then took an extra long look at the CV boot. Yep, it's torn, and there seems to be play there. Time to replace the axle.

After extensive forum searching and watching many a Youtube video, it really seems as if there are two ways to go about this. One is the method recommended in the service guides, and that is to disconnect the tie rod and the lower ball joint. The other is to remove the two bolts on the upper strut. Either method will let you move the hub out of the way and pry the axle out.

The second method seems to be easier, but will likely require an alignment afterwards. Disconnecting the ball joint without damaging it seems to be harder, but no alignment necessary.

What's your preferred method? I haven't done this before, so I don't know how long I should expect to take. Am I really just overthinking a process that will only take me a couple of hours anyway, or does the choice of method have a major effect on the job?
Click to expand...
That is the easy part. If you are doing the passenger side axle, getting the axle out of the bearing carrier is what you need to worry about. It is very difficult. When I changed my axles that took most of my time. I almost gave up.
 
#14 ·
I use a pry bar that is like the longest one in this kit: https://smile.amazon.com/4-Piece-Me...H6,B07TZKV3Q8,B0093NZ6LI,B008M23DIE,B000RLHURS,B08546ZDC2,B07MLXWTWV,B001M0O1MU

I don't use it to pry it out but I position it to be able to hit the end of the CV axle near the transmission. I snake it through the exhaust to where the handle side is near the back of the driver's side tire and put the tip on the bottom of the axle end, then hit it a few good times with a 3lb hammer. The other key is to keep tension off of the axle - so you can't have it dropped out of the hub and putting tension on the joint. I usually use a bungee cord to tie the loose end up to the coil spring so that the axle is horizontal and the bungee is pulling it out of the transmission slightly. Once it is lined up like that, then a few hits with the hammer on the long pry bar, and it comes out. I've done this on 3 different vehicles about 10 times and it seems to work well.
 
#15 ·
Separating the control arm without damaging boot is real tough. The ball joint separator tool i tried (from HF Tools) does not work properly. To make it work, it needs to be slightly modified. I can imagine that same will happen with tie rod end also.
 
#16 ·
Separating the control arm without damaging boot is real tough. The ball joint separator tool i tried (from HF Tools) does not work properly. To make it work, it needs to be slightly modified.
Click to expand...
Yeah. I modified that HF tool. Been working great since. I use it on all our cars I work on. Best $20.
www.odyclub.com

DIY Front wheel bearing 2008 Touring

Had to replace wheel bearings on 2 vehicles so I thought to try on vehicle (in-situ) using just wheel bearing kit. No slide hammer. I did not use any air/power tools so all descriptions will be manual. Tools: - Axle nut socket set (rented at Pepboys) -Wrenches mm 10, 17, 19 -Sockets mm 10, 12...
www.odyclub.com www.odyclub.com
Image
 
#17 ·
As for getting the axle out, I found a fat cold chisel works great. It wedges between the axle and engine, so hitting it puts more force on separation. Banging on just the axle with a pry bar tends to bounce.
 
#18 ·
thscott said:
Recommend that you do both sides and install genuine Honda axles. About $200 each from discount places such as Majestic or Bernardi.
Click to expand...
I am curious why there is no discussion about replacing just the torn cv-boot and not the entire axle. I always replaced the boots when torn on my other cars and it worked just fine. Are boots hard to replace on the Odyssey?
 
#19 ·
If you already have the shudder, as the original poster does, I think it's too late to replace the boot.

FWIW, I got the shudder in my old van and the boots were still intact, but had apparently lost their grease.
 
#20 ·
christos said:
I am curious why there is no discussion about replacing just the torn cv-boot and not the entire axle. I always replaced the boots when torn on my other cars and it worked just fine. Are boots hard to replace on the Odyssey?
Click to expand...
Boots are easy enough to replace, but odds are, if you’re at that point, damage has already begun to the joints. So for the minimal extra labor and relatively low cost of a new axle, why not just replace the whole assembly and be done with it for another 100k miles?
 
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