RESOLVED: Parasitic Battery Drain of 250mA on Fuse 7 7.5A . Could it be something else besides door latch?

fatlard · Jul 27, 2022

Hello all,

Last couple of days the van had a dead battery.
Day one. Jumped and assumed it was an issue with door lights since I had the sliding door open mid/half way on the passenger side to address rust.

Day two dead again. Jumped and dead again later at night.

I measure the parasitic battery drain. It was 267 milliamps. Seeing many threads on the sliding door draining batteries, I pulled fuse 7 with the 7.5amp fuse. The draw went down to 17 milliamps.

I seen other threads listing the draw to be about 400mA if there is an issue with the sliding door latch.. give mine issue is 250mA draw... should I be focusing my attention elsewhere that shares the fuse 7 circuit?

Sliding door opens and closes fine. I hear the latch engaging.

Thanks!

fatlard · Jul 27, 2022

I pulled the fuses 23-26 which controls the other items linked to fuse 27... still a parasitic drain
pulled the AC relay .. there is still a parasitic drain.

In my tinkering and playing around today of I am seeing 370mA parastic drain now....

So as everyone says, parasitic drain is one of two items. AC relay or sliding door latch.

Time to take apart door and clean switch.. replace switch or replace latch.

thscott · Jul 27, 2022

fatlard said:
I pulled the fuses 23-26 which controls the other items linked to fuse 27... still a parasitic drain
pulled the AC relay .. there is still a parasitic drain.

In my tinkering and playing around today of I am seeing 370mA parastic drain now....

So as everyone says, parasitic drain is one of two items. AC relay or sliding door latch.

Time to take apart door and clean switch.. replace switch or replace latch.

You're getting close to the 400 mA drain which is indicative of a bad rear latch.

fatlard · Jul 27, 2022

I am digging in and looking to buy parts.

I hear these two switches from digikey referenced. How many are needed for each side. i want to buy enough for both doors. Thanks!

ABJ363860 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. ABJ363860 – Switch SPST-NO Chassis Mount from Panasonic Electric Works. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

ABJ362860 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. ABJ362860 – Switch SPST-NC Chassis Mount from Panasonic Electric Works. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

thscott · Jul 27, 2022

Those are the correct switch part numbers.

There are 3 of these blue Panasonic switches in each latch. I do not recall which are NO vs NC; I know you need both. I would recommend you buy 2 of each for each latch; 4 of each for both rear latches (both doors).

hpark21 · Jul 27, 2022

fatlard said:
I am digging in and looking to buy parts.

I hear these two switches from digikey referenced. How many are needed for each side. i want to buy enough for both doors. Thanks!

ABJ363860 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. ABJ363860 – Switch SPST-NO Chassis Mount from Panasonic Electric Works. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

ABJ362860 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. ABJ362860 – Switch SPST-NC Chassis Mount from Panasonic Electric Works. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

See my earlier posting with picture of the latch with which one is which (NO/NC):

2005 Odyssey Sliding door problems

1-Drivers side has no power. 2-Drags hard in manual mode and will actually stop to where you have to lift up on the door to get it to slide the rest of the way, either direction 3- It does not always-"suck in to close"- like it should, and if it does it comes back open after a few seconds. On...

www.odyclub.com

You will need one of each on each side, just to save on shipping, I would buy 3 each JUST IN CASE you mess up 1 of each and save $$ in shipping cost.

fatlard · Jul 27, 2022

Thank you both! I will wait for shipping and hope this fixes my issue.

fatlard · Jul 27, 2022

Well… …
Drove to autozone to test battery, alternator and starter. All tested good…

now after I returned home…car would no longer start… after one hour…when I returned home there was 12.4 on battery… an hour later… I was down to 10.4 volts…

I am so confused… how did my battery drain so fast?

hpark21 · Jul 28, 2022

fatlard said:
Well… …
Drove to autozone to test battery, alternator and starter. All tested good…

now after I returned home…car would no longer start… after one hour…when I returned home there was 12.4 on battery… an hour later… I was down to 10.4 volts…

I am so confused… how did my battery drain so fast?

I would think that your battery is suspect maybe it can't hold charge well if it was drained few times.

fatlard · Jul 29, 2022

Hmmm

hpark21 said:
I would think that your battery is suspect maybe it can't hold charge well if it was drained few times.

that would stink. Looks like I got the battery in 2017 so it may be time for replacement but i will wait until this drain is resolved…

still waiting on parts. What a pain on this parasitic drain

car died on while I went into gas station to get gas… just insane

fatlard · Jul 30, 2022

Pulled these codes… no codes indicating the microswitches.. would this also cause a parasitic drain

hpark21 · Jul 30, 2022

fatlard said:
Pulled these codes… no codes indicating the microswitches.. would this also cause a parasitic drain
View attachment 169626

As far as I know, none of those codes will cause parasitic drain.
If drain is stopped by Fuse #7 pull, then it most likely is the door latch.

WiiMaster · Jul 30, 2022

B1222 is very common on Odysseys at this age. Luckily it hasn't gotten to mine yet.

fatlard · Jul 31, 2022

Well... one of the worst things about DIY is going in with a plan and then things actually worst after you execute the plan

We started off with a parasitic drain... today I replaced both latch microswitches and put it all back together and as of now there is still a parasitic drain (higher now at 790mA) and now the power sliding door no longer works. UGHH

Question 1. Here are the switches i took out of the van. They have both NO and NC on them... but they are different.. Where does the NO and where does the NC from digikey go on the latch assembly? I put the NO on the flat side of the latch. I put the NC one on the angled area

Question 2. For soldering in the new switches... do you need to connect black to black and white to white and then black to black and red to blue? I followed the orientation of the wire existing the switch and did the solder job below.

black to white
white to black

black to red
blue to black.
Did I mess this up? Edit: I think I messed up here. I should have done black to black and then white to white and then red to blue and black to black?

Question 3. Did I head down the wrong path chasing this parasitic drain? I do not have any body codes that point to b2038 or b2088... Did I screw up?

I will be cracking this open again tomorrow to fix this. Any suggestions??? I am so out of ideas and feeling pretty inept right now.

fatlard · Jul 31, 2022

@hpark21 Looks like I am following your footsteps.

Another power sliding door problem

I have a 2006 Ody. I have read this forum. I have watched YouTube. I have Googled. I feel like I have tried all of the simple stuff. My passenger sliding door will not stay closed. It pushes it back out after manually closing. It will not work at all with the power button next to the steering...

www.odyclub.com

WiiMaster · Jul 31, 2022

Drain higher and doors not working sounds like incorrect installation of the switches to me.

fatlard · Jul 31, 2022

WiiMaster said:
Drain higher and doors not working sounds like incorrect installation of the switches to me.

It definitely looking like it… appears with microswitches… common applies power and it toggles between NC and NO. I am getting to feeling that I solder the wrong cables in.

I imagine I had one faulty switch to begin with to get me to ~400ma draw…. Due to incorrect wiring of both microswitches… I effectively doubled the draw to ~790ma…

gonna rip it apart and try again tomorrow

kernel · Jul 31, 2022

fatlard said:
Question 1. Here are the switches i took out of the van. They have both NO and NC on them... but they are different.. Where does the NO and where does the NC from digikey go on the latch assembly?

As I recall, working with microswitches years ago, one of the three legs (or in this case wires) gets cut off or not installed. If the leg is by the NO mark, the switch is Normally Open. By the NC the switch would be Normally Closed. This can be confirmed with a multimeter.
In your picture, the top switch is NO. I would assume the wire on your bottom switch is over to the left side for the NC connection.
Once you've identified which switch is which, refer to hpark's referenced thread as to which goes where!

BTW, these are SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) switches. There is also a variant with all 3 wires- SPDT or Single Pole Double Throw.

fatlard said:
Question 2. For soldering in the new switches... do you need to connect black to black and white to white and then black to black and red to blue?

For this application, it doesn't matter which wire goes to which side of the switch. The switch is either closing or opening the connection between the two wires.
Just be sure not to swap a NO switch with a NC switch (or vicey versi)!

fatlard · Jul 31, 2022

kernel said:
For this application, it doesn't matter which wire goes to which side of the switch. The switch is either closing or opening the connection between the two wires.
Just be sure not to swap a NO switch with a NC switch (or vicey versi)!

Got this image from ebay… and if the digikey siwtchred/black cable is NO and the white/black switch is NC and this link from @hpark21 Convert automatic sliding door to manual. Any gotchas

fatlard · Jul 31, 2022

I am continuing down this rabbit hole to try to fix this. I am also mentally prepared to buy a new full latch and swap out the whole thing if my attempts are not successful today.

I am pretty sure my switches are in the right spot based on the images from eBay and images from @hpark21 I have the NC at the top of the latch. The NO is by the rear latch mechanism. So no change there.

@kernel mentioned that since these switches are SPST and for this application it does not matter which way I connect the wire... I full agree with him because it is either close or open. However, I am kind of at of lost on my next steps. I looked at the datasheet and found these diagrams embedded in the document. Looking at these diagrams the COM is on the side closest to the switch. on both NC and NO. If we are following to the letter of the diagram then I have these miswired. (again I agree with @kernel that it should not matter) However, I am not sure what the Honda computer is interpreting and reading and what resistance

Please jump on me if I am looking at this incorrectly. I really got no other option at the moment. Thanks for everyone's input.

RESOLVED: Parasitic Battery Drain of 250mA on Fuse 7 7.5A . Could it be something else besides door latch?

fatlard

fatlard

thscott

fatlard

ABJ363860 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey

ABJ362860 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey

thscott

hpark21

ABJ363860 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey

ABJ362860 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey

2005 Odyssey Sliding door problems

fatlard

fatlard

hpark21

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hpark21

WiiMaster

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Another power sliding door problem

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kernel

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