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Did you TEST the NO/NC switches from digikey to CONFIRM their operation? NO switches (Normally Open) = if that little button is NOT pressed then there will be no continuity between the 2 leads.
NC switches (normally closed) = if the little button is NOT pressed, then there WILL be continuity between the 2 leads.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Did you TEST the NO/NC switches from digikey to CONFIRM their operation? NO switches (Normally Open) = if that little button is NOT pressed then there will be no continuity between the 2 leads.
NC switches (normally closed) = if the little button is NOT pressed, then there WILL be continuity between the 2 leads.
Yes and tested fine. I did am sure they are in the right location now…. I also swap the cables around and it did not make a difference…. Still at 770ma draw….
Biggest issue is now the latch is no longer working and fully engaged…with the door fully shut…


I cannot open the door manually and or using the motor. It sealed and no longer opens. The door panel is still open so I can access all the cables…but there is no way for me to unlatch the door. I cannot get the to 3 bolts holding the latch from the back of the door

even if I wanted to order a full OEM latch…. I cannot get the door open to get this latch out…

I am DOA and will most likely bring it into the dealer tomorrow :(
 
Yes and tested fine. I did am sure they are in the right location now…. I also swap the cables around and it did not make a difference…. Still at 770ma draw….
Biggest issue is now the latch is no longer working and fully engaged…with the door fully shut…


I cannot open the door manually and or using the motor. It sealed and no longer opens. The door panel is still open so I can access all the cables…but there is no way for me to unlatch the door. I cannot get the to 3 bolts holding the latch from the back of the door

even if I wanted to order a full OEM latch…. I cannot get the door open to get this latch out…

I am DOA and will most likely bring it into the dealer tomorrow :(
can't you manually pull the cable to disengage the latch?

Disconnect the power going to the latch (A):
Image


Then, monitor to make sure that the latch cables are moving when you pull the out side door handle - and is properly attached.
If needed, try to PULL on the latch cable (there are 2 of them) - to see if it will manually unlatch - while pushing the door out - assuming front latch is working:
Image
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Well this super sucks.. I took the dealer's word for it that the parasitic draw is gone...

Van would not start today. Measure the amp draw on the negative battery. ~260mA draw. WTF.

Called dealer and we have to schedule a follow up visit...two Monday's from now.
 
Well this super sucks.. I took the dealer's word for it that the parasitic draw is gone...

Van would not start today. Measure the amp draw on the negative battery. ~260mA draw. WTF.

Called dealer and we have to schedule a follow up visit...two Monday's from now.
Bummer. Sadly dealerships are bad for doing complex diagnostics. Perhaps your other latch is bad?
 
I did not go back and reread your thread, but have you already ruled out the other very common cause of parasitic battery drain - the AC clutch relay?
 
purchased a new AC relay just for giggles and swapped it out. Issue still persists
You did replace the correct relay, yes? There are 3 of them that are all interchangeable but only one of them typically causes a draw. Should be the black one closest to the front of the van.
 
Discussion starter · #36 · (Edited)
Yes, correct. I pulled the one between the two blue taller relays. It is the one labeled with the snow flake.

I went on a detaching spree.

Removed hardwire dashcam. It is now powered by USB.
Disconnected driver window and lock switch
Disconnected passenger window and lock switch
Disconnected rear sliding door window switch for both sides
No change in draw.


Disconnected SVCM. 8 milliamp drop.

I guess I am dreading taking this back to the dealer. They are going charge me $180 to diagnosis but I am hoping to convince them they did not fix the original issue. On the dealer invoice notes they explicitly state they have a drop from 700mah to 29mah...
Image


Btw.. how long do you have to wait for deep sleep on the Odyssey to take a reading? I am still reading 260 milliamps after about 30 seconds
 
Yes, correct. I pulled the one between the two blue taller relays. It is the one labeled with the snow flake.

I went on a detaching spree.

Removed hardwire dashcam. It is now powered by USB.
Disconnected driver window and lock switch
Disconnected passenger window and lock switch
Disconnected rear sliding door window switch for both sides
No change in draw.


Disconnected SVCM. 8 milliamp drop.

I guess I am dreading taking this back to the dealer. They are going charge me $180 to diagnosis but I am hoping to convince them they did not fix the original issue. On the dealer invoice notes they explicitly state they have a drop from 700mah to 29mah... View attachment 169761

Btw.. how long do you have to wait for deep sleep on the Odyssey to take a reading? I am still reading 260 milliamps after about 30 seconds
I think you have to wait a couple hours.
 
Your problem is being compounded because of a bad battery. Get a new battery so you have 1 less factor on your plate. I have a hardwired dashcam too, and it could stay on for a whole day without depleting my 800 CCA battery.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Took the car for a 500 mile drive and unplugged the fuse just in case

Came home last week and the car is operating normally with fuse 7 plugged in. Battery did not drained overnight.

So, I am going to chalk this up to poor battery performance, inexperience DIYer and possibly a latch issue.

I am going to mark as resolved.
 
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