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Alternatives to $3200 Head Gasket Replacement? Head Gasket Sealer?

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
DIY Fan said:
I still suggest a leak down test but if you are ready to DIY then go for it. Rings can be done without removing the block. Good luck!

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Thanks for the video. Is the amount of space to work with similar to the Odyssey? I feel like the space in the Odyssey is a bit more cramped for the rear head.
I was going to do the leak down test since the tester arrived in the mail this evening. However the tool itself was leaking air and I ran out of daylight. Also, this might sound like a stupid question but what is the best way to spin the engine manually to get a piston TDC? Things look a bit tight and I was going to try to use a serpentine belt wrench to reach down there from the top side but it doesn't arrive until next week. Would it be better to remove the plastic shields on the bottom and reach upwards instead?
 
#24 ·
It's probably easier on an Odyssey. The Pilot engine is deep down in the engine bay and, in my opinion, more difficult to work on the back head.

For spinning the engine you will use the crank pulley bolt and a breaker bar/large ratchet, accessing from the wheel well. You will also need a way to get that crank pulley bolt off. That's one of the biggest challenges of the timing belt job, which you will need to do in order to pull a cylinder head.
 
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#26 ·
DIY Fan said:
If you are planning to DIY another option is to source a used engine and install it yourself. Just a suggestion.
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No way. That is a huge undertaking as the entire engine and transmission drops out the bottom with the subframe. I have a lift and it's not really something I'd want to do if I didn't have to.
 
#27 ·
I used the Lisle socket and a plug in impact rated at 440lb-ft. The crank pulley bolt came off liike butter. South Main Auto has YT videos on J35 head swaps.
 
#28 ·
DIY Fan said:
I used the Lisle socket and a plug in impact rated at 440lb-ft. The crank pulley bolt came off liike butter. South Main Auto has YT videos on J35 head swaps.
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That's what I use along with my Milwaukee high torque impact but not everybody has that stuff.
 
#29 ·
John Clark said:
No way. That is a huge undertaking as the entire engine and transmission drops out the bottom with the subframe. I have a lift and it's not really something I'd want to do if I didn't have to.
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My bad I forgot about about the radiator support which has to be removed if its lifted out the top. Some peeps have done it that way.

 
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#32 ·
Even if you don't have the tools, it may be worth investing in with the money you'd save by doing this DIY. As for the machining, it wouldn't hurt to look for some local machine shops and give them a call and ask.
 
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Discussion starter · #33 ·
Doing some planning before I attempt this larger project. I'm reasonably mechanically inclined but I'm not well versed in a project this big. One concern is that I somehow screw this up and I'm out the cost of parts ($370 for each gasket). Are there certain difficult / risky parts that I should watch out for? Or any pointers on avoiding major problems? I'm guessing the main concern is botching the timing belt and causing more engine damage since it's an interference engine. I guess one way to check is to turn the engine manually to feel for any valve collisions.

Should I do both head gaskets while I'm in there or is that unnecessary? My guess is that I might have to remove the front head to get enough clearance for the rear head.
Are there other things that should also be done while the engine is open? I'm thinking at least water pump & timing Belt and valve adjustments.
Also what are the chances that the piston rings on the rear bank are seized? I'm hoping the piston soak would relieve this issue but not sure of efficacy.
 
#34 ·
There is a gamble with anything you do but your compression is good so I don't suspect any ring issues. As long as you take your time and follow the service manual I think you'll be fine. It's not inherently difficult, just lots of disassembly and reassembly. Without the right tools the crank bolt can be frustrating. With the right tools it's not even an issue. Be sure and follow the proper sequence for removing and installing the head bolts. You'll want a full Aisin timing belt kit and a full gasket set. There are a lot of misc gaskets and o-rings that will be necessary to replace when you get down that deep. Also, it's recommended to replace the head bolts.
 
#35 ·
Consider getting a service manual to help you out.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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#36 ·
You need to research how to set the timing of the timing belt. I do not think the front head needs to be removed to work on the rear head. The intake manifold needs removal before taking off either head. Agree with obtaining the service manual.

www.odyclub.com

HELP! Here is a fun one for you - Crank turned without...

Helping my neighbor's son navigate through his first timing belt/waterpump swap. Everything was going good until I noticed he was turning the crank and the timing belt was not moving, just the crank bolt. I discovered He had accidentally dropped the woodruff key when he put the crank pulley...
www.odyclub.com www.odyclub.com
 
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#38 ·
vbvic said:
Or any pointers on avoiding major problems? I'm guessing the main concern is botching the timing belt and causing more engine damage since it's an interference engine.

My guess is that I might have to remove the front head to get enough clearance for the rear head.
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Set # 1 to TDC then place MARKS on the timing belt that align with the marks on the front cam, rear cam and on the crank with a dab of paint or fingernail polish before you remove the belt.

You will have enough space to remove the rear head without having to remove the front head.

There will be 2 metal alignment dowel pins on the lower right and left corners, don't lose those. They might come out with the head, they might stay in the block, either way, don't lose them and make sure they are in place before you put the head back on.

The service manual is extremely useful.
 
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#39 ·
Had similar issue with my 2007 Honda Odyssey. Van overheated and oil in the coolant and vice versa. Took both heads off and had them inspected and machined by a machine shop and they pressurized it and found that the front head had a crack somewhere you couldn’t see. Rear head was fine and reused it. I bought a rebuilt cylinder head from rock auto and at the time it was about $500 with a core return I also did what others mentioned…new timing belt, tensioner, thermostat etc…..the van has been running great since then put over 20k on the engine with the new head and head gaskets. Bought most parts they rock auto. It is a big job. Seemed like the hardest part was getting the rear head lined up and setting it down on the block. You’ll also have to do a valve adjustment on the new head and would recommend it done any way on the other head.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Thanks everyone for the input. After some consideration I ended up trying the K&W Permanent Head Gasket Sealer. After going over reviews online and on Amazon I didn't see any negative reviews that indicated causing other issues. Just a few saying that it didn't work. To me this seemed like a low risk and cheap attempt to fix the issue.
I went through the whole process of removing the thermostat and flushing the coolant 8 times with water to make sure there was none left that might negatively impact the gasket sealer before using it. I also removed the spark plug to the main culprit cylinder, and ran the engine for 20 minutes. At first there was a lot of white smoke. But to my surprise after 20 minutes it seems to have worked its magic so far without causing other issues. I also changed the oil in case there was some coolant and/or gasket sealer that had transferred from the cooling circuit into the oil. I'm still going through some flush cycles with water to make sure there are no residual particles that might cause blockages later. And I need to reinstall the thermostat and re-add coolant. But right now there is no longer any white smoke at the exhaust and doing the block leak test with the blue test fluid shows there is no CO2. Also I boroscoped the previously leaking cylinders and they both seemed to be dry after about 20 miles of driving. I'll report if this "permanent" fix falls apart, at which point I will re-evaluate my options.
Thanks again to everyone for your input. I know if may be disappointing to some to have gone with the cheaper fix but for me it was worth the try and seems to have paid off for now.
 
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