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dntboles

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Question up front: Should I be checking more than the alternator?

My wife started the 2007 EX-L RES and heard a weird chirp. She drove it for maybe 15 - 30 seconds then the dashboard lights lit up. So she decided to keep driving and LUCKILY, it died right at the exit from the high school. Additionally, we have Priority Start, which is a device that disconnects the battery mechanically when the voltage drops below 11.7 volts.

I showed up a few minutes later, tools in hand, and saw Priority Start had done its job. I made it reconnect but then as I went to use a battery tester, saw smoke from the front let side. I disconnected the negative battery terminal quickly. Then I tested the battery and it was good, but needs a recharge. I reconnected the negative terminal just long enough to see a little smoke, coming roughly from where the battery wire connects, but I can't be sure. I disconnected the battery completely.

I removed the alternator using the video @MrRangerZr1 made. Thank you!!! One trick that helped me was to move the belt tensioner back (looser) to provide a little more room to wiggle the alternator out of its position. Every little bit helps.

I have a Denso on the way to NAPA tomorrow but wanted to know should I check anything else? The wiring harness didn't appear burned. I don't have the spool valve on the front, so nothing dripping on the alternator.

Thanks, y'all!
 
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I don't have the spool valve on the front, so nothing dripping on the alternator.
You might not have the spool valve, but a leaking front valve cover gasket can have the same effect.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I’ll check that tomorrow morning.
 
Did I miss the mileage?

" Saw smoke." o_O

If saw smoke sourced from under hood, with hood closed, you have potentially serious other issues fwiw.

Having said that;

Check battery terminal connections first. - Easy
Should be tight.

Did you replace battery?
Just replace battery, with a good one.
If battery 3 years old, replace. imo.

Check all ground wires.
Sounds stupid, but, look at them. Pull on them.
Sometimes they just pull/fall apart. Corrosion.

There is a couple on top of motor.

There is a whole ground ensemble below radiator on both sides.
4 wires on right irrc, 5 on left.

Need to pull lower splash guard to see/access grounds easily.
Doesn't mean bad, just pointing out.
Notorious for corrosion at some point.
Although you may not be there as indicated.
Especially in TX.
But you never know till inspected. - Easy check
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
157K miles.

Smoke was just after reconnecting (through Priority Start) the battery. The hood was up and I was standing in front, checking the drive belt.

The connections were tight with no visible corrosion. Battery tester said battery was good but needed a charge.

I will look up the ground locations.

NAPA guy called and said he had their brand alternator in stock a little cheaper but could order the Denso. I said “only Denso.” Given the option I’ll choose “good” rather than “fast and cheap.” This time the breakdown was in a pretty convenient spot and time, as opposed to on a family road trip.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
LOL. I’m not a fan of smoking cars but very glad it wasn’t with the hood closed. I’ve only had that once and it was a little steam from a cracked radiator on our Honda Stream in Italy.
 
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It most likely, is only the alternator. One of the cheap remans of my Maxima did that. As soon as you started the car, smoke would slowly rise. Since it was an extra car, I was dragging my feet and had it parked in my garage. BUT. We would fire it up and move it in and out as per needs. A couple of times later, I had the hood up and fired it up and I was the wiring in the alternator get red hot. Could see the red/orange glow. Of course along with the said smoke.
Once I replaced it, all was well again.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
This van evidently likes to stay at the high school. A few years back my oldest son was leaving the school and heard a thud, then a weird screech, then the dash lit up. He stopped right there. The original harmonic balancer split at the rubber and fell off.

Part of me wishes I'd tested it more while still installed, but I was concerned about 1) fire and 2) shorting out/frying something else.
 
Part of me wishes I'd tested it more while still installed, but I was concerned about 1) fire and 2) shorting out/frying something else.
Good call. That fire risk is high (very high) on a bad alternator. NOT worth the risk at all.
 
FWIW, I do remember a thread on the Piloteers forum about someone experiencing an alternator failure and the connection to the alternator getting completely melted.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Installation took 1 hour 45 min, including chatting with the lady across the fence who wondered why I was out there by her back yard at 9:30 last night. Gravity helped with lowering the alternator into position and it was MUCH simpler than fighting to raise it out of the tight spot. Battery tester rated battery health at 88%, charging normally. And no smoke!

Rock Auto would have been about $150, with the part arriving Thur night, but I couldn't work it Fri or Sat and didn't want to leave the van on the side of the school road all week. NAPA was about $250 and available this morning. It was worth the extra $100.

Difficulty rating: 3/5 -- relatively simple, with minimal tools and I was able to do this by myself, BUT getting that alternator out of the tight spot was a pain.
 
Seems a bit odd to think about, but the Accord V6 seems to have more room for an alternator job than the Odyssey and Pilot do. Enough of a difference that I'd probably be willing to give the alternator job a try on my Accord if needed, but I wouldn't dare attempt it on my Ody.
 
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I just did the alternator on my van in May. It is not as bad as the videos describe but then again I am a Mechanical Engineer by trade and was a mechanic in the Air Force. Not much bothers me. Mine was evidently fried by the spool valve leaking which I had previously corrected before that but apparently just enough oil got onto the alternator to cause it to go bad. I also ended up installing a new hydraulic tensioner because mine had rounded-off points to get the belt off. I moved the power steering container out of the way which was the biggest aid for space. It eventually came out. I did as well order a Denso from NAPA. My closest NAPA had it in stock. The alternator grounds to the engine and frame so you need to make sure you have everything bolted up well including the shim on the big bolt. New battery in April, alternator, belt, and tensioner in May. I should be good for a number of years.
 
Seems a bit odd to think about, but the Accord V6 seems to have more room for an alternator job than the Odyssey and Pilot do. Enough of a difference that I'd probably be willing to give the alternator job a try on my Accord if needed, but I wouldn't dare attempt it on my Ody.
Well. My non-mechanically talented friend tackled the alternator on his 2007 on his own. This was a year or two before COVID. I had asked him to call me when he started, he never called. By the time I made it to his place, he was putting it all back together. He went by the videos and removed the washer tank to tackle the job. He is approaching 250K on his. I believe 235K and counting.

If he can do it, you and I, @WiiMaster, can definitely do it though I am spoilt with @John Clark being local to me. :D
 
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Well today my alternator decided to take up smoking! I only had the battery light come on. After pulling over and opening the hood, smoke was coming from what looked like the cable connecting on the back side that leads to the fusebox. I suspect the alternator shorted, and once the battery was drained the smoke cleared. To bad I didn't have my tools with me, would have liked to have removed the + battery cable.
On to search for a Denso replacement, and review MrRanger's video. I do have a spare battery, just put it on the charger. Pleasantly surprised that after sitting 2+ years it was at 10.7 volts!

edit- Anybody know the difference between a Denso 2100580 and 2100575? They are both 130 amp, the *575 is a bit more and only fits '05-'07 Odys and the *580 fits a few more years ('03-'09) and includes Acura and Honda Pilot and Ridgelines.
 
Well today my alternator decided to take up smoking! I only had the battery light come on. After pulling over and opening the hood, smoke was coming from what looked like the cable connecting on the back side that leads to the fusebox. I suspect the alternator shorted, and once the battery was drained the smoke cleared. To bad I didn't have my tools with me, would have liked to have removed the + battery cable.
On to search for a Denso replacement, and review MrRanger's video. I do have a spare battery, just put it on the charger. Pleasantly surprised that after sitting 2+ years it was at 10.7 volts!

edit- Anybody know the difference between a Denso 2100580 and 2100575? They are both 130 amp, the *575 is a bit more and only fits '05-'07 Odys and the *580 fits a few more years ('03-'09) and includes Acura and Honda Pilot and Ridgelines.
Likely a difference in the pulley. It’d be important to purchase the one that’s designed for you vehicle or the belt may not align properly.
 
edit- Anybody know the difference between a Denso 2100580 and 2100575? They are both 130 amp, the *575 is a bit more and only fits '05-'07 Odys and the *580 fits a few more years ('03-'09) and includes Acura and Honda Pilot and Ridgelines.
Wouldn't surprise me if the one only for 05-07 Odys is for VCM engines and the other is for non-VCM engines since that would have a wider application.
 
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