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Converting 2008 Hydraulic belt tensioner to spring loaded

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broken bolt hydraulic tensioner
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would you be interested in doing this?

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ISTVAN

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I had enough! After having the broken bolt problem twice in two years, I feel like I am driving a ticking bomb. Loosing power steering on an Ody EXL is pretty dangerous. Second time I watched the mechanic do it and religiously followed the steps.
So I would like to start a new thread to convert my Ody to the spring loaded one. I compared the 2008 parts to the 2013 ( when Honda has given up on the hydraulic one).
I feel that a compressor bracket from a 2013 Part Number: 38930-RV0-A00 might be able to replace the Part Number: 38930-RGM-A00 form 2008. Some of the bolt lengths are different, but the belt is the same, the compressor is the same, and the alternator from 2013 seems to have a pulley with "clutch", but other then that seems the same.
I am thinking to try the tensioner from 2013: Part Number: 31170-RV0-A01 ( which seems to be more expensive then the hydraulic one:)
Any thoughts? Can somebody confirm that the bracket from 2013 can be mounted on 2008?

PS. The only reason I chose 2013 is that it seems that in that year Honda has completely switched to spring loaded tensioner. The bracket and tensioner are the same between 2011-2017, so if anybody has parts from any of these years, that could also be used to test this.
 
#2 ·
Wouldn't it be easier to try and fit one from a 3rd gen LX/EX? The hydraulic tensioner is limited to the VCM models.

In any case, if you're still having the broken bolt issue, there's something else going on. Even the hydraulic tensioner setup is quite reliable when handled correctly. You must make sure the correct belt length is used and that the proper bleed procedure is used with the tensioner.
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
It might be reliable, but I don't trust it. Imagine trying to find a shop that can replace it. Canada is very big, and this can happen very far. I almost ran out of gas the other weekend afternoon. Closest open gas station was at 100 km, or wait a day till the local one opens next day. Getting CAA there takes 2-3 hours, to tow a car. The hydraulic tensioner exposes the bolt to cyclical bending with a pretty high torque. Also the length of the screw does not help, acts a as prybar. Cyclical means fatigue. The spring loaded one only exposes the bolt to axial tensioning and almost no cyclical fatigue. The fact that even Honda repaired ones fail sometimes pretty fast, is a bad sign. Yes they give you warranty, but how far could the next dealership be? The fact that Honda abandoned the solution is not a good sign either. By the way I have one year on the latest bolt, but I also replaced the bracket last time. The reason I started the thread is that I am sure there is somebody who has access to both parts, and can do a comparison of:
-Mounting holes of the bracket to engine
-Position of compressor on the bracket
 
#4 ·
Like WiiMaster says, get the tensioner from the '08-'10 LX/EX instead of crossing to the next generation. And cross-check if the belt is the same.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
kernel said:
Like WiiMaster says, get the tensioner from the '08-'10 LX/EX instead of crossing to the next generation. And cross-check if the belt is the same.
Click to expand...
The reason I thought that 2011-13 would be a better choice is that I chose the ones with VCM engines. The spring tensioner seems redesigned, it is more expensive then 2008
 
#8 ·
ISTVAN said:
The reason I thought that 2011-13 would be a better choice is that I chose the ones with VCM engines. The spring tensioner seems redesigned, it is more expensive then 2008
Click to expand...
It is also a very different engine, even from the 3rd gen VCM engine. The J35A7 and the J35Z8 do share some similarities but they have many differences too. Not really a fair comparison. Definitely not a ton of similarities to the J35A6.
 
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Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
Juggawut said:
What are you torquing the tensioner bolt to?
Click to expand...
I followed the Honda service manual. I also made sure bolt is oiled and torqued before priming the tensioner. I watched the mechanic do it.
The main issue here is psychological and is risk. The number of tensioner bolt issues seems very high. I had no stress till the bolt did not break first, and I experienced the loss of power steering. I frequently do long trips, I can not afford a newer car. I always maintained my cars well. But the feeling that your life might hang on a thread is not a good one. By the way, I had a broken tensioner spring on my 1999, at least on that one you did not loose power steering, was able to safely drive off the driveway. That was the only time when one of my cars experienced a serious problem while driving, in about 600k miles.
I don't think that there is anything related to the hydraulic tensioner that would reassure me, unless Honda issues a service bulletin with an updated part, and that will not happen for a 2008 car. Maybe should switch to an electric power steering pump? That could help you get out safe of the highway, but still could leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. Maybe then I should carry a compressor bracket with the tensioner installed on it as a spare part? I hope this gives you an idea of my mental state regarding the tensioner.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
does anybody have access to both compressor brackets for 2008-2010, the one for hydraulic tensioner and the one for spring loaded?
would be nice to see them compared. I find it interesting that the post 2013 tensioner, that is spring loaded for all engines is almost twice as expensive as the one for 2008 spring loaded one. It means that Honda designed a very special tensioner for the VCM engines. Would be nice to see one taken apart..
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
It seems I will give up on this. I noticed that harmonic balancer is also different on VCM engines, although this is probably to handle the extra vibration. I do have a question though: If the bolt brakes when you drive, how long can you drive the car without the alternator charging? In my case it happened close to home, so I did move the car a couple of times. I have a new battery on the car. I found some 10.9 bolts at Boltsandnuts.com: M12F100BF10Z/J. I probably replace them preventively every year.
 
#12 ·
ISTVAN said:
If the bolt brakes when you drive, how long can you drive the car without the alternator charging?
Click to expand...
Depends. At night when you need your lights on and stuff probably not too long. But if it's during the day you can likely get away with it for a little bit if you turn all accessories off.
 
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Discussion starter · #13 ·
WiiMaster said:
Depends. At night when you need your lights on and stuff probably not too long. But if it's during the day you can likely get away with it for a little bit if you turn all accessories off.
Click to expand...
Obviously would turn everything off, unfortunately I have Canadian daytime running lights always on, I am looking to put an emergency switch on that one too. I have long wanted to buy a DC clamp amp meter, maybe now I have an excuse to get one.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I measured about 10 amps with DRL on, no alternator. Everything else turned off. But with the very hard power steering when the belt is broken, just get of to the side of the road and call a tow.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
By the way I found and ordered bolts: M12-1.25x100 Class 10.9 JIS Hex Flange Bolts Zinc Plated. I will put one in the car, I probably will replace t every 1-2 years. I also bought a left hand drill and extractor set, will put it in the car too. I checked with the Dewalt right angle adaptor, seems to fit in. On long trips I will carry the cordless, torque wrench, a spare tensioner and belt and a printed copy of the instructions. I am compiling the exact inventory for the emergency kit. I do not want to do this in bear country, but you never know. Even if I go to a mechanic, having all the parts can save days. Please chime in with what else should I carry with me.
 
#17 ·
Were you able to convert from the hydraulic to the spring loaded? I have a 09 and both the nuts on the hydraulic tensioner are stripped. I've bought a spring loaded tensioner was wondering if it bolted right up!!!!
 
#18 ·
Also O'Reillys had a spring loaded tensioner for a 2009. I'm hoping like hell once I remove the hydraulic tensioner the spring loaded will mount up. I've been searching the internet for the answer but no luck
 
Discussion starter · #19 · (Edited)
You probably need a compressor bracket from a model that has the spring loaded one. The brackets are relatively cheap. I crashed my car so I never got to do it. But I still remember the uneasy feeling of imagining that I loose the power steering in the Appalachians.
Here is a link to the bracket 38930-RV0-A00 - Genuine Honda Bracket, Compressor
 
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ISTVAN
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