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DIY-J

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I just bought my 3rd used odyssey in 15 years.
We still have our 2011 odyssey with 240k miles. The “new” one is a 2018 with 90k mikes.
Compared to the 2011 odyssey the engine sounds a little rough. Idle and acceleration definitely sound rough. Also, acceleration feels a little sluggish compared to the 2011.
when are plugs supposed to be replaced? Should I also replace cylinder coils?
Any other thoughts?
 
Could also be the EGR being dirty or stuck. Possible Mass Flo Sensor (might be able to clean this). Have you tried hooking up a OBD2 scanner to see if it is giving you a code?
 
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@DIY-J
Too bad, the code didn't make it for Service Bulletin 21-010 for a 10 year warranty...
I would try Sea Foam IC5 Fuel Injector Cleaner. Make certain you have a full tank, drive it home, take out the special gas funnel that came with the ODY, insert it and add this injector cleaner. Give it the full tank to do it's job before deciding if it worked or not. If at the end... worked, problem solved. If not --- fuel injector replacement time.
This is normally caused by bad fuel. I understand that you are not the original owner and perhaps the owner before used gas from the corner Gas N Go store which was not a Top Tier gas station rated it is not just the station but the fuel they sell also. The pump housings will have this rating printer on it.
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If Seafoam won't work as you hope and before you spend money on new injectors, consider cleaning injector by any professional shop "near you". There are a few shops that you can send your injectors to and they will clean them (some even paint them after the cleaning process) and return for about 14-20 dollars apiece. These shops clean and test them and provide you with a printed "report". New injectors (6) may cost you over 250.00. If you remove injectors, replace FI o-rings.
EDIT: on some Honda sites the FI are backordered...
 
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@wwdwgs
I would agree with you about having the injectors cleaned and tested by a injection pump and fuel injector shop, the majority of these places do Diesel which is their main business. They do a very good job of it, but do not expect to get a over night job from any of theses places... they can take up to several days to weeks to do the work as they are always in demand. The will tell you also if the injectors are bad and cannot be repaired as well. This all being said they may not even clean or repair your fuel injectors for the Honda engine, myself... I do not know. Most auto (gas injectors) are not worth their time, as the cost of this service may exceed the cost of a new injector. But there is only one way to find out is to call a shop. In Omaha, NE such a shop is named Diesel Specialties.

While working for the Federal Aviation Administration, they had sent me to a 2 week class in Dallas, TX. It was for a Stanadyne/Bosch fuel injection pump and fuel injectors. It was a relatively easy class to go through explaining how to tear apart pumps and injectors, soaking the parts in a large sized ultrasonic cleaner overnight. The next day you would measure and clean out any small holes like the injectors have on them. If it was still dirty, you would run them through a second cycle of ultrasonic cleaning. Then you would pressure test the injectors checking their spray patters and if any drips would appear. Also the solenoids would be tested to hold the spray on the injector. The injection pumps took the longest and everyone would rebuild several different types of pumps. It was a enjoyable class, well taught and gave me enough experience to do this work for the engine generators we maintained. Although were I am at, we only had diesel engines no gasoline engines.
 
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Sometimes repairing costs more than the part's price or close to it. Sometimes original parts are still better than the new aftermarket ones and, if the original ones are no longer made, the rebuilding seems much better option. I usually try to service an existing part, if it's worth it. If something goes wrong, there's always a "last resort" - to buy a brand new part.
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone. Before I saw the replies, I added a bottle of Lucas Oil fuel injector cleaner to half a tank of gas and have driven about 30 miles. Is it bad that I didn’t fill up the tank with the additive? I assumed the more potent mixture was Better… no?
 
Generally, it's better to stick to manuf. recommendations. It's like social Friday - a couple of brewsky is good, but a dozen may upset you....
 
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@DIY-J
Sorry did not mention that part... Whatever the Sea Foam of whom ever brand you use, follow the instruction on the bottle. There is 2 sizes of bottles of Seafoam Injection cleaner, 5 oz. and 20 oz.. Both of them you can put in with a minimal amount of gas in the tank, But if I was to use the 20 oz, I would fill the tank, but that's just me.
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This sounds more like an air flow obstruction. If it were injectors then the mix would be fuel lean not fuel rich.

I would start by replacing the engine air filter. While you are at it check the entire airway for obstructions like critter nests. They can get in through the air intake. I found a hoard of acorns below the air filter the last time I changed mine.

At 90K miles it would not hurt anyway to clean the mass air flow sensor and throttle body as recommended above especially since you can't know if the previous owner(s) used Top Tier gasoline or not. Do use Top Tier gasoline in the future. Costco sells it at a significant discount in most markets. I'd also toss in a bottle of Techron at your next complete fill even having already run Sea Foam through it.

You might pull the front plugs just to inspect them. Plug fouling can cause rough idle, and fouling would be expected when running fuel rich for a long time.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Soooo…. New problem. I tried cleaning the MAF sensor with CRC electric connector spray. Now I’m getting Code P0102, and my dash lit up like a Christmas tree. And I’m still getting the P0175 code. what have I done wrong?
 
@DIY-J
Oh no, you should not use an electrical cleaner on a MAF sensor, you could have blown it off or sprayed it with a MAF sensor cleaner. @wwdwgs is correct about that. It probably damaged the physical metal strip in the MAF sensor and electrical cleaners have a tendency to slight acidic to clean contact connections.
 
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