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P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire

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11K views 34 replies 12 participants last post by  Michelle1166  
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#1 ·
I am having very constant misfires only resonating from cylinder two. At this time, I’ve changed all 6 spark plugs, the coil pack on cylinder 2 (swapped to cylinder 4 and still misfire on 2), all 6 injectors, removed and thoroughly cleaned Throttle Body and Mass Air, Replaced from valve cover and spark tube seals, Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor. I’ve even ran High Mileage Seafoam through over a week ago. At this point I’ve exhausted all options that I can think of. I’ve had compression test done and I’m not mixing oil or coolant nor am I burning oil or any out the exhaust.
The misfire happens when the cars sits, it can be an hour or two or more and it will misfire. The misfire ONLY is happening on cylinder 2. If I crank the car and mash the pedal down, I can force it to rev high and eventually the rev will stop the misfire and it runs fine. I can even drive it as long as I want without any misfire until it sits again. I’ve exhausted so many options and I’m not sure what to fix or even look at next. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
#23 ·
Have you figured this out? I had this issue on my '12 also. Researched and found out it's the ECO feature fouling the plugs... Anyway, I bought a device someone created (for those of us who were no longer eligible for the repair) that trucks the ECO system. I'll find a link and attach it. It stopped the misfires. Easy peasy to install, too.
 
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#10 · (Edited)
I think you should disable VCM, but don't think that is your problem here.

Checking on your problem description - the problem existed before changing plugs, swapping coils, and changing fuel injectors, right? Plugs can be fake. Safe to assume no codes or other problems with the car?

Maybe the biggest clue here is that it runs fine after misfiring for a little while, and that it needs to have sat for 2 hours before the problem appears. So my suggestions follow that ...

Head gasket issues are rare on these cars, but it could be that there is a leak that allows pressurized coolant to be slowly forced back into cylinder #2 after shutting the car down, while the hot engine cooling system is still pressurized. Then when starting up, the coolant causes misfires until you blast it all out of there.

A leaking fuel injector would have been a similar suspect, except you had the problem before and after replacing the FIs.

Simple, direct way to check would be to get the car in a situation where you think it will have this problem - e.g., driven until hot, shut down, waited 2 hours. Then remove the #2 spark plug and stick in a Q-Tip on a stick or something like that, toward the bottom edge of the cylinder, and see if it picks up any coolant.

Just in case that is not conclusive, briefly crank the engine over with the spark plug still removed and see if any fluid blasts out the hole. (stand back)

A more involved, related test, which may be better or worse than this, would be to start with a cold engine and pressurize the cooling system with a cooling system pressure tester. That might force coolant into cylinder #2. Then you could use an endoscope to look in there, and possibly see coolant dripping in there. Benefit to this is that you can add pressure for as long as you want, and that the engine would be cool and easier to work on because of that. Downside is that the problem may require the engine to be warm for the leak to be present.

Simple test here, may give a negative result, but that would be progress.
 
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#16 ·
I legit have the same problem replaced the coil pack and spark plug on cylinder 2 and put 6 brand new injectors in and it still misfiring. just did that today. runs rough blinking engine light. cant find the problem I mean the next step is compression test. maybe a sticky or stuck valve? or bent or burnt? I'm done standing in the garage scratching my head.
 
#18 ·
drydenmichael049 said:
I legit have the same problem replaced the coil pack and spark plug on cylinder 2 and put 6 brand new injectors in and it still misfiring. just did that today. runs rough blinking engine light. cant find the problem I mean the next step is compression test. maybe a sticky or stuck valve? or bent or burnt? I'm done standing in the garage scratching my head.
Click to expand...
You should have asked around before firing the parts cannon. Now you wasted money on parts and didn't fix the problem.
 
M
#20 · (Edited)
UPDATE: 12/18/24 - PROBLEM SOLVED: purchased and Installed VCM tuner 2 To disable the variable cylinder management.
Original Post: I am having the same problem on my 2011 Honda Odyssey 3.5 l cylinder number 2 misfire flashing check engine light. What was this guy's problem and what was the solution? I'm here I have not thrown any money at it yet. I have not thrown any parts at it yet. Help me out!
Here is the explanation of the cause and the solution:
 
M
#32 ·
#25 ·
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#30 ·
All these details are in the 1st posts VCM Mega-thread referenced above.
And if you click the 3 dots on the upper right corner of your post you can click Edit and correct your post(s).:giggle:
 
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