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Bob2011TE

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Hello all,
Long time visitor here and first time posting, I’ve really enjoyed all the information from this site and I wanted to share my concern about a CV axle replacement instructional video on YouTube I came across. The author of the video states several torque specifications that don’t match Honda’s information. Examples: wheel lug nut torque of 80 ft lbs. vs. 94 ft. Lbs. passenger side axle carrier bolt torque of 40 ft. Lbs. vs. 22 ft lbs. , and axle nut torque of 181 ft. Lbs. vs, 242 ft lbs. I know it may not be concerning to some, but I had a mechanic ruin an axle carrier on my 2011 that I’ve owned since new and I decided to change the axle myself this time only to find the past mechanic overtorqued the bolts and ruined the aluminum threads on carrier. I had to drive 120 miles round trip to the only Honda dealer with one in stock to continue with the axle repair.
Here’s the link, and let me know if I’m incorrect please:
 
The inaccurate torque specs are certainly worrisome! Your numbers match my service manual. And a lot of pros just use impact wrenches and never bother to check the torque specs. This is particularly problematic with aluminum parts.

Unfortunately no one will monitor/correct inaccuracies or bad advice in youtube videos, so use at your own risk. IME the videos by 1A-Auto, TRQ, Eric the Car Guy, and South Main Auto are good, but I still check the service manual just because...
 
People like ETCG don't even typically include torque specs.

With that said not sure what you expect us to do about it.
 
People like ETCG don't even typically include torque specs.

With that said not sure what you expect us to do about it.
Yeah its probably best for a youtuber to NOT show torque specs, just to encourage DIY types to use the service manual. Their demonstrations of the procedures are helpful, though.
 
People like ETCG don't even typically include torque specs.
or Eric at SMA... his torque specs are click click or dugga dugga.
:ROFLMAO:

I do the same, with the exception of steel bolts into aluminum threads.
even then, I just use my 1/4" drive mini stubby ratchet and go by feel most of the time, so im not wrenching those aluminum threads.
 
Hello all,
Long time visitor here and first time posting, I’ve really enjoyed all the information from this site and I wanted to share my concern about a CV axle replacement instructional video on YouTube I came across. The author of the video states several torque specifications that don’t match Honda’s information. Examples: wheel lug nut torque of 80 ft lbs. vs. 94 ft. Lbs. passenger side axle carrier bolt torque of 40 ft. Lbs. vs. 22 ft lbs. , and axle nut torque of 181 ft. Lbs. vs, 242 ft lbs. I know it may not be concerning to some, but I had a mechanic ruin an axle carrier on my 2011 that I’ve owned since new and I decided to change the axle myself this time only to find the past mechanic overtorqued the bolts and ruined the aluminum threads on carrier. I had to drive 120 miles round trip to the only Honda dealer with one in stock to continue with the axle repair.
Here’s the link, and let me know if I’m incorrect please:
Passenger side axle carrier is known to break on these when trying to remove, so im not sure the last guy in there is fully to blame.
Since replacement part availability is non existent, you should have your answer as to how often this is happening to people when removing the passenger side axle.
 
or Eric at SMA... his torque specs are click click or dugga dugga.
:ROFLMAO:

I do the same, with the exception of steel bolts into aluminum threads.
even then, I just use my 1/4" drive mini stubby ratchet and go by feel most of the time, so im not wrenching those aluminum threads.
I’m also very careful with bolts into aluminum, otherwise I also go by feel. 35 years of full time paid experience.
any DIY video should not give out torque specs. It would protect you from lawsuit
 
Although I enjoy TE videos very much, his methods demonstrate how things are done at the dealerships.

efficiency and get it done as fast as you can, and using a milwaukee m12 ratchet with 60+ ft pounds of torque on 10mm bolts into aluminum.

i'm sure he's going "by feel"

:ROFLMAO:
 
lol, this is a shit can anyway you look at it.

noway to monitor videos for correct specs

Love Eric O, and his click torque wrench sound effects, he makes sure to satisfy torque n**is by saying that he went over and torqued everything to spec off camera.
But guess what, I subscribe to AllData info and find incorrect torque specs there as well, not 1-2 lbs off, but when its blatantly wrong that its obvious.

One thing with pro's, ie those that do this for living, you get to understand what different sized bolts require for torque, ie 6mm bolts (10mm head) are typically between
7-9 ft lbs. m8 (12mm head) is around 16 ft lbs, m10 (14mm head) are 26-44 ft lbs range, so on. This does not apply to fluid drain bolts and just my estimates too, don't go
torquing anything based on above.

I personally go through trouble of looking up every torque spec in Alldata and use that. It makes me sleep better at night, call it torque n**i or amature.
 
Although I enjoy TE videos very much, his methods demonstrate how things are done at the dealerships.

efficiency and get it done as fast as you can, and using a milwaukee m12 ratchet with 60+ ft pounds of torque on 10mm bolts into aluminum.

i'm sure he's going "by feel"

:ROFLMAO:
I recently started watching him on FB, and his video's have a certain trance quality, I like them, even though I don't find any useful info there.
Between music, comments and video flow, it just jives.
 
Youtube university has helped us DIY folks come a long way.

I know folks in the trade that hit the interweb when in doubt.

I appreciate all of their contribution.

Like and Subscribe...

;)
1000%, its a game changer at this point in time. Pro or beginner, the amount and quality of content on automotive repair is unreal. As much as these forums are useful, YT is whole another level.
Simple example is, book times and repair job descriptions require certain steps, and thats how the job is listed in AllData.
Case in point, was working on 2008 BMW x3 that had a bad crank sensor, by the book, you were suppose to remove intake plenum, starter and a whole lot of BMW plastic mess.
Not only would it take a ton of time, it would also put the success of the job in jeopardy, because Euro plastic and old cars just don't mix well.
I watched a few YT vids, and found one where guy replaced it from the bottom, without any disassembly at all. Yes, you are working mainly blind, and difficult to reach area, but
I will take that chance, and did! Job went well, no bmw plastic was broken that night and car was fixed.

Now just to be clear, any mechanic would still charge the book time on that job and likely more, but thats an entire different topic.
 
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