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Here are my 2cents to add to your info.
Since you already mentioned Autel tool, I would go on and highly recommend Autel MX-One sensor.
Its a programmable universal (dual frequency) sensor. I no longer buy original sensors for every make/model.
One Autel sensor works for everything, I have not ran into a car yet that is not compatible with it.
Its a truly well thought out part. You can get them with rubber or metal stem, stems are one click install.
Best part, is that you can just clone sensor id from the dead sensor into the new Autel sensor, swap sensor out,
and it just works! No need to reprogram the car.
If you want a winter tire set, just clone exact same id's into the winter tire sensors and swap out is no longer an issue
with TPMS lights.
Autel even makes various shades of metal stems!
I am a big fan.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Here are my 2cents to add to your info.
Since you already mentioned Autel tool, I would go on and highly recommend Autel MX-One sensor.
Its a programmable universal (dual frequency) sensor. I no longer buy original sensors for every make/model.
One Autel sensor works for everything, I have not ran into a car yet that is not compatible with it.
Its a truly well thought out part. You can get them with rubber or metal stem, stems are one click install.
Best part, is that you can just clone sensor id from the dead sensor into the new Autel sensor, swap sensor out,
and it just works! No need to reprogram the car.
If you want a winter tire set, just clone exact same id's into the winter tire sensors and swap out is no longer an issue
with TPMS lights.
Autel even makes various shades of metal stems!
I am a big fan.
Great info! I didn't go w/ Autel Mx sensors due to price. But it sounds like the features are worth it in many cases. Especially on vehicles that auto sense the new position after rotation. I learned a lot about TPMS with this. But am continuing to learn a lot about it. Glad were putting it all in one place for us!
 
You would be surprised at cost of Autel sensors. They are definitely cheaper than OE sensors, and also cheaper than Aftermarket/OE sensors Denso, Schrader, etc...
My only concern is battery longevity and whether it matches up OEM sensors. That said, some OE sensors don't last long at all.
 
Thanks. How much did they charge you?
I think walmart wanted $45 a sensor if I recall correctly.
I realize this is much more expensive up front cost. I just HATE taking my vehicles to any shop for any reason at all if I can avoid it. Now I'm down to just having shops do alignments.
If I recall, it was $170 with tax.
 
You would be surprised at cost of Autel sensors. They are definitely cheaper than OE sensors, and also cheaper than Aftermarket/OE sensors Denso, Schrader, etc...
My only concern is battery longevity and whether it matches up OEM sensors. That said, some OE sensors don't last long at all.
I'm looking into TPMS now for the first time. My 2011 LX with 150k+ miles is still on its original sensors, and they are all still working. But I'll be replacing tires at some point and figure that will be a good time to put in new sensors, even if the originals are still working.

Sound good?

So, following this thread, and with a similar mindset of wanting to be able to take care of as much as I can by myself, was looking at getting:
Autel TS508WF - currently $190 at Amazon -

Autel MX-Sensor 4-pack - $91 at Amazon -

I'd plan to provide these to the shop that puts my new tires on. Would I be able to test program them to the car before installation, or do they require pressure and being driven to activate?

But then I saw something that gave me a little doubt. The Autel sensors claim 4-6 years battery life (and I'm guessing they're not underselling their product). Vs. the original ones are at 14 years and still going. Any thoughts on the actual battery life of these Autel replacements vs. the originals or Honda replacements?
 
I'm looking into TPMS now for the first time. My 2011 LX with 150k+ miles is still on its original sensors, and they are all still working. But I'll be replacing tires at some point and figure that will be a good time to put in new sensors, even if the originals are still working.

Sound good?

So, following this thread, and with a similar mindset of wanting to be able to take care of as much as I can by myself, was looking at getting:
Autel TS508WF - currently $190 at Amazon -

Autel MX-Sensor 4-pack - $91 at Amazon -

I'd plan to provide these to the shop that puts my new tires on. Would I be able to test program them to the car before installation, or do they require pressure and being driven to activate?

But then I saw something that gave me a little doubt. The Autel sensors claim 4-6 years battery life (and I'm guessing they're not underselling their product). Vs. the original ones are at 14 years and still going. Any thoughts on the actual battery life of these Autel replacements vs. the originals or Honda replacements?
Regarding your oem sensors, if you hook up a decent bidirectional scanner you should be able to see the remaining battery life on the sensors.
my foxwell scanner does this, a good test is when the temp is close to or below freezing.

Never used the autel clonable sensors, but know others who have and speak highly of them.
Just clone your replacements with your OEM sensor ID's for an easy swap.
The autel tool should be able to activate the sensors, I have done this on the bench before with various brand sensors.

my 2011 TE stock alloys are still on the originals.

Lifespan likely increased due to annual winter tire swaps.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
@oldskewel
To me the Autel sensors weren't worth the extra coin, but I don't swap winter/summer wheels so I have no reason to clone them. You can activate the sensors and test them prior, even with no pressure on them. They'll show 0psi. And I'd highly recommend doing that before you have someone put them in.
If you program their locations prior, you'll have tons of flashing TPMS lights. I personally would program them after you have them swapped, then take it on its test drive from the shop to make sure the lights clear.
 
I'd plan to provide these to the shop that puts my new tires on. Would I be able to test program them to the car before installation, or do they require pressure and being driven to activate?
yes, these sensors are programmable on the bench, no need for any pressure to be present.

But then I saw something that gave me a little doubt. The Autel sensors claim 4-6 years battery life (and I'm guessing they're not underselling their product). Vs. the original ones are at 14 years and still going. Any thoughts on the actual battery life of these Autel replacements vs. the originals or Honda replacements?
Thats really my only concern as well. So far, I had not had any mx sensors come back with dead battery. Again, convenience factor of being able to stock one sensor negates the potential of slightly shorter battery life. I have seen OE sensors fail way too soon, so 14 years is really great.
 
@oldskewel
To me the Autel sensors weren't worth the extra coin, but I don't swap winter/summer wheels so I have no reason to clone them. You can activate the sensors and test them prior, even with no pressure on them. They'll show 0psi. And I'd highly recommend doing that before you have someone put them in.
If you program their locations prior, you'll have tons of flashing TPMS lights. I personally would program them after you have them swapped, then take it on its test drive from the shop to make sure the lights clear.
I am not sure why you keep saying this. Autel sensor costs around $25 retail, cheaper in bulk.
You are also not correct about locations, as long as you match original ID's, it truly makes no difference if location of the sensor does not matches what the car thinks.
It happens every time you rotate your tires, at least on plain odyssey. Some have systems that automatically relearn new locations, not sure if Odyssey has this system, mine is so ancient, it had no tpms from the factory. But definitely no flashing TPMS lights if locations don't match.
Also, highly recommend programming on the bench before, in case you get a bad sensor, otherwise you will be taking that tire apart again.
 
Regarding your oem sensors, if you hook up a decent bidirectional scanner you should be able to see the remaining battery life on the sensors.
my foxwell scanner does this, a good test is when the temp is close to or below freezing.

Never used the autel clonable sensors, but know others who have and speak highly of them.
Just clone your replacements with your OEM sensor ID's for an easy swap.
The autel tool should be able to activate the sensors, I have done this on the bench before with various brand sensors.

my 2011 TE stock alloys are still on the originals.

Lifespan likely increased due to annual winter tire swaps.
Thanks for the tip on the scanner. I never would have thought ... My Foxwell NT520 Pro does go into the TPMS section, and tells me all 4 sensor battery levels are "Normal." Could be worse, I guess.

BTW, my car here is a 2011 LX, which I think came with steel wheels, but when I bought it in Feb 2013 with about 20k miles, it had 17" Alloy wheels from an EX or higher, so the actual age of the TPMS sensors is at least from Feb 2013 but maybe not all the way to 2011.

I did see all the senor IDs, photo'ed them, in case I need to clone as you say.

So do you have an Autel TPMS scanner, but got your sensors elsewhere such as from Honda or RockAuto?

At this point, I've seriously been considering going all in on this, doing my own tire mounting and bubble balancing. It's about the last thing on cars that I don't already do. I know it probably does not make sense, but I like the self-reliant aspect of it, and I do have a lot of cars.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I am not sure why you keep saying this. Autel sensor costs around $25 retail, cheaper in bulk.
You are also not correct about locations, as long as you match original ID's, it truly makes no difference if location of the sensor does not matches what the car thinks.
It happens every time you rotate your tires, at least on plain odyssey. Some have systems that automatically relearn new locations, not sure if Odyssey has this system, mine is so ancient, it had no TPMS from the factory. But definitely no flashing TPMS lights if locations don't match.
Also, highly recommend programming on the bench before, in case you get a bad sensor, otherwise you will be taking that tire apart again.
Because I got 4 sensors for $30... so $8ea vs $25ea, evidently autel sensors are on sale now for $20ea (see link below).
The scan tool showed my locations and pressures which were in the wrong location. It said I had a dead front driver side sensor when I scanned it. When in reality the rear driver side sensor was the one that was dead. So at least on my year and trim, it does need programing to know the exact locations. Probably doesn't matter beyond scanning though, since this doesn't display pressure on the dash display.

 
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Because I got 4 sensors for $30... so $8ea vs $25ea
good luck, ebay and amazon are off limits for this stuff, fake/counterfeit products. I have never seen prices cheaper than $25 for legitimate sensors.
Not going to argue that $8 is cheaper than $25 :cool:

The scan tool showed my locations and pressures which were in the wrong location. It said I had a dead front driver side sensor when I scanned it. When in reality the rear driver side sensor was the one that was dead. So at least on my year and trim, it does need programing to know the exact locations. Probably doesn't matter beyond scanning though, since this doesn't display pressure on the dash display.
so your flashing TPMS light was due to dead sensor, not wrong position.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
@maxud
I'm well aware of the counterfeit stuff on fleabay and amazon. This isn't a critical part. It will be fine.

As I said. TPMS light was due to a dead sensor. And when I scanned it via the OBD2 port, it read that it was the Driver Front sensor not reporting a tire pressure. However upon scanning each sensor the Driver Rear sensor was UN-responsive. Which would indicate that the vehicle notes the sensor serial number locations and tire pressures associated with those specific wheels in the ECM, upon initial programming. Thus requiring re-programming locations upon a tire rotation.
 
As I said. TPMS light was due to a dead sensor. And when I scanned it via the OBD2 port, it read that it was the Driver Front sensor not reporting a tire pressure. However upon scanning each sensor the Driver Rear sensor was UN-responsive. Which would indicate that the vehicle notes the sensor serial number locations and tire pressures associated with those specific wheels in the ECM, upon initial programming. Thus requiring re-programming locations upon a tire rotation.
here is what you said.

@oldskewel
......
If you program their locations prior, you'll have tons of flashing TPMS lights. I personally would program them after you have them swapped, then take it on its test drive from the shop to make sure the lights clear.
I am done replying.
 
Thus requiring re-programming locations upon a tire rotation.
Why? There is no way to display the pressures via the dash in anyway. As long as the TPMS reports that something is wrong, that's all that you need to know. If one tire is low, you should check/add to all of them. If one sensor is dead, you should check the condition of the other 3. No work saved when something goes wrong, just extra work during tire rotations that isn't needed.

-Charlie
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
@maxud
There seems to be a disconnect, at this point I don't know if I was being unclear or either of us are just confused. lol

I was answering @oldskewel's question.
"I'd plan to provide these to the shop that puts my new tires on. Would I be able to test program them to the car before installation, or do they require pressure and being driven to activate?"

If you were to program new sensors to the ECM UN-installed, then drive up to the tire shop to have them installed. You're going to have a flashing TPMS light because, they need to move within the wheel wells in-order to report to the vehicle. Just watch the end of my video after I re-programmed all 4 of mine. The van was mad, it had flashing lights and an annoying audible noise as well until I hit about 25mph and they reported to the ECM.
Should you activate them and test them, absolutely! But I wouldn't recommend programming them to the ECM and replacing them in the ECM for the currently installed sensors. If you were cloning the already installed, it wouldn't matter if you cloned them prior.

@phattyduck
That way if the TPMS light comes on, I can just plug in the scan tool to the OBD2 port, hit scan and see which sensor is dead. Alternatively I'd have to go around to all 4 sensors to find the dead one. But yeah, not 100% necessary since this vehicle has no in-dash display. On other vehicles with a dash display, I'd absolutely be in the habit of re-learning locations after tire rotations, or your dash display would be off. I'd just reprogram locations to save myself time later. But also to stay in the habit so I do it on my vehicle that does have in dash tire pressure display.

Either way this vehicle does store which sensor is in which location and the tire pressure and battery status of each specific sensor, within the ECM. What it does with that data isn't clear.
 
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