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I’m curious too.
Sachs is a very well respected company. They are OEM to many high end brands including BMW. I would not hesitate to buy them (in fact those are the only ones I buy for my BMWs). The ride should be very close if not identical to the original shocks/struts when new.
 
I second christos. I use the clutches made by Sachs. Only this years I've heard a "report" of one damaged Sachs clutch (the cause is still unknown).
AS a rule, if the manufacturer supplies high-end car makes (like BMW, Porsche, MB) many, many decades, there is a chance that said manuf. is a good one. They may, just may, produce 1-st class and 2-nd class items (like Blum hinges and drawer slides), but even the "seconds" are still better that generic (autozone, etc) brands.
Many owners, who installed KYB struts/shocks, do say that they are slightly stiffer than OEM.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
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Items
2/3 and 12, needs replacement for sure.
10 - Almost never.
1/4 i guess we can reuse it.
7/8 - yes.
9/10 - Check and replace.
13/14 - Check and replace. Seems Honda's mounts/bearing are good quality.

I will be doing replacing 7/8 (strut soon). Will update the forum once done.
 
Somewhere in the repair manual there was a suggestion to replace the pinch bolts (#15) and the nuts (#18). Personally, I don't adhere to this suggestion. Also, check the proper torque of the top strut and it's corresponding center nut (#16).
I hope that you have proper tools to compress/decompress the coil springs.
 
I am planning to rent the spring compressor from autozone. Used it once in my bmw.
Can you do a DIY video or pictures? I may opt for this for the old Infiniti I picked up for the kid a couple years back. Shocks are shot.
 

When using rented spring compressor, get 2 pairs so that you can use 3 per some suggestions/issues with them. If the lock pick and condition good, I guess that works. This is what I used first time (on 00 corolla) and then got the jaw type compressor from harborfreight. I got to use this on 4 cars multiple times. It was $55 at that time and it was time-saving. Odyfamily once showed a really nice one in 2nd gen forum too...

Btw, struts in 04 camry were Sachs (orig/oem). I replaced them with kyb Gr2 when they went bad at the time. Kyb's are the stiffest of the bunch but settle after 3000mi though. Sachs may be softer.
 
Can you do a DIY video or pictures? I may opt for this for the old Infiniti I picked up for the kid a couple years back. Shocks are shot.
If you don't mind spending a bit extra and keeping another tool in your garage, look at this, or a similar one. I bought it about a year ago and used it on a BMW and a Porsche 911 so far. The springs on the 911 were really stiff, I doubt the Odyssey springs are stiffer.


The only challenge is finding the right position for the jaws, but once done, I felt this tool was safer and much faster than the standard spring compressors with two coil hooks. Don't ignore the safety chain that comes with it. I also added four rubber feet for extra stability. Had to enlarge the holes a bit.

 
I really like this spring compressor set. Used them on a Ford Expedition, Toyota Sienna, and the 2007 Odyssey. The threaded rod is encased making it clean no oil on your hands, and smooth operation.
 
Definitely replace that rubber spring seat (#9 in the diagram). You won't regret the $15 or so, considering how much effort you have to put in to tearing the strut apart. It's a reversible part, so buy two. Anything rubber or plastic ought to be replaced except for the bump stops (and if yours are knackered, you're probably abusing the hell out of the odyssey).
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Replaced both sides yesterday night and today morning. Both sides were shot. No leak, but when i press on it, it is not coming back. Mostly it was easy, i removed the cowl first which made it lot easier, especially when holding it with one hand and tightening one nut on top. Started with passenger side, it was tough to align the holes on knuckle and strut. Had to loosen the control arm bolt, especially with the poly bushing i have. Once loosened, it made it lot easier.

Except the strut and strut below, all the parts were in excellent shape. Even the rubber padding on the bottom. The bearing (kind of white plastic disc), i cleaned it and used some white lithium grease (looks like that's what it had from factory). The Sachs struts i ordered, i got the TRW brand from RockAuto and is made in USA.

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Overall, here is what i did

1. Removed the cowl and wiper blades
2. Loosen the 3 nuts on the strut top
3. Remove wheel
4. Disconnect the abs cable(clip) and the brake line (bolt)
5. Raise the knuckle at control arm and removed the sway bar link nut.
6. Remove 2 X 22 mm nut. Top bolt will stay because of the angle
7. Loosen the control arm bolt (the middle one)
8. Press down on the knuckle and remove the top bolt
9. Remove the strut out of the van
10. Compress the spring until the mount is loose to turn
11. Remove the strut nut
12. Clean everything.
13. Install new strut and strut below.
14. Tighten strut nut and remove the spring compressor.
15. Re-install the struct. Had to press down on the knuckle to align it.
16. Re-insert bolts, raise van to ride height and tighten everything.

@dvpatel - See the picture below. I used the Autozone strut compressor. worked fine.

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How do they feel? I was thinking of just replacing mine with KYB strut plus but since I have a shop that doesn't charge an arm and a leg to do this, I may just order the Sachs and new mounts. What all parts did you use (other than the Sachs)?
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Didn't drive much. But one thing i noticed is, it was hard on even small bumps. That is greatly reduced. It used to felt like driving my bmw, now lot better. I didn't realize that the strut were completely shot. 2010 model with ~144k on it now.

I used Sachs strut and KYB strut below (they were in bad shape). Everything else, i reused and all were in excellent shape. Had to use some white lithium grease to lubricate the white plastic bearing..
 
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