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Discussion starter · #2 ·
Oh also remembering that I have a 22b in the van with a hole in the block.

The 22a I have just bought had been rebuilt recently new pistons, rods balanced bottom end and hasnt even been run in properly yet.

Looking at the two engines the inlet manifold looks different but that is about it.

Help please.......
 
I believe the exhaust manifold configuration is different as well. The F22A is O-O-O-O, and the F22B is O--OO--O. So, you could not reuse the exhaust manifold from the Ody. You would probably need one from a fourth gen Accord

The F22A is an OBD I, and the F22B is OBD II or OBD I, depending on the year (OBD I for 95, OBD II for 96 and up). There will be some sensor and/or wiring issues to overcome if you install an OBD I engine in an OBD II vehicle.

You will probably be sacrificing some horsepower with the F22A. Although the F22A6 was rated at 140hp, the F22a1 and F22A4 were rated at 125hp and 130hp, respectively

Don't know about tranny compatibility
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Its F22A3 and the engine in my ody is simply F22B nothing else.

Again I think with the renewed pistons etc if there is a power difference it will be negligible and also dont forget mine is SUPERCHARGED also........so I have room for improvement :)
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
But is it worth me just using the New engine as a short engine and bolting on my F22B Head, inlets etc ?

Then essentially I shoudl be running a hybrid that will run with the current ECU but have new rings and pistons etc !!!

Surely that will work ?
 
The F22B head does not mate up perfectly with the F22A block. It can be done, but it's a bit tricky. See this thread on the honda-tech forum. This guy was putting an F22B1 head on an F22A1 block, but the process should be similar for the ody, minus the VTEC hookup. The biggest problem appears to be sealing various ports to stop coolant from leaking.

You say you have a supercharger on your ody now? What kind is it? Did it have stock pistons and rings? that might also be a problem with the F22A. The stock piston/ring setup may not be capable of withstanding the boost.

Also, is your F22B a SOHC or DOHC. I know the F22B (with no number suffix) came in two versions...a SOHC and DOHC. I'd love to get a DOHC version for mine....they are hard to come by in States.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Mind you I could leave the engine as full engine and bolt on all my goodies to it and the intake.

Somebody mentioned there maybe a prob with the auto box going on to it. I cant see why ? Does anybody else have any reservations with this ?
Thanks
 
The transmissions can not handle boost either. Their great and they usually last a long time if you treat them well but I guess they cannot handle any extra force/power. You can swap it with an auto Prelude trans but thats if you want to spend more:D
 
Unless I am misundeerstanding the post, it sounds like there was some sort of forced induction already installed on the engine. The tranny held, but the block didn't. Surprising, though, because F22's are almost bulletproof.
 
It sure sounds to me your engine has a hole in the block because of bad tuning. Your new engine will likely suffer the same fate with the supercharger unless you have a good tuner for the initial break in. I could be wrong, I'm just saying it suspisciously sounds like a tuning issue.

F22's have cast iron sleeves and low compression and are supposed to be one of the more ideal Honda engines ever made for boost. Auto transmissions are a whole different story, it should had went before the block.
 
here's my 2 cents F22A was fitted to the earlier 90-93 accords in the SOHC configuration I dont know about compatability with the transmission but F22B engines are easy enough to come by so I would stick with that save all the headaches trial fitment etc...
The C's compressor supercharges were released in 1997 assuming your odyssey got its one fitted sometime around then or the years following its still atleast 5years of boosted motoring under its belt, the HKS/Trust turbo kits for the F22B also ran no intercooler (a big no no in modern circles) and were designed to provide trouble few motoring which they did also.
My standard auto trans has held upto the H22A in my van for over a year now which has 190hp realisticaly probably the same power outout as a mild boosted setup and I have had no issues yet :)
One other thing though the C's compressor has a small piggy back fuel controller as part of it which should be spliced into the loom beside the ECU this would be tuned for 100+ octane fuel which is readily availble in Japan dont knwo what octane figures are like in the UK but alot of performace imports bought to NZ need to have the aftermarket ECU's retuned for our domestic fuel

Sorry for the long post :)
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Ok just about to start removing the engine.

Are there any guides on here at all. It is 7pm here in the UK and I hope to get it out tonight. It is on the lift now and oil draining as we speak.........

Also on the C's compressor has anybody got any info at all as I have had real trouble trying to locate any information on this at all.

Thank yooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
 
Well the best guide I know of is none other than the service manual. It covers everything naturally.

You do know the engine comes out from the bottom right. Your engine lift will need to be high enough to drop it down through and back up vice versa.

The most time consuming thing if you already know how to do pretty much everything else will be disconnecting all of the wiring harness connectors and there is a ton of the damn things.

So you'll need to remove the front cross members and everything associated to allow the engine to be brought down through the engine bay.

Changed mine out about a month ago with my father and we did about 60% of everything before opening up my shop service manual I bought when we got the Odyssey.
 
The A/C compressor if you still have one stays in as does the condensor.

Hope you have a balancer shaft seal retainer to put on the new engine, or had an old one to reuse.
 
Hey man my wife is gonna be home soonish with our Odyssey and I have the shop manual in it I will scan the installation / removal pages and post them up.

There isn't many pages so it won't be a big deal definitely get at doing what you know needs to be done hopefully what I post up will remove any doubt that you might have.

Hopefully I can cram the pages on our scanner so it doesn't look like crap.

Hopefully I can remember how to make the thing work. :)
 
Dude, Photobucket is being a total wanker.

I scanned all the pages like an hour ago and still trying to sign in so that I can upload then link the pages.

I have no clue what the hell is up with it but as soon as it ceases being a total ass I will get the pages up.
 
lift van yes motor comes out from bottom ONLY
remove wheels
remove axles compleatly
remove front lower cross member compleatly with radious rods
drain all fulids
disconect exaust shift cables
go back on top disconect harness one conector on right side of motor in back corner rest on left side Pass remove batt and tray
remobe radiator
remove fuel lines
remove ac compressor and set aside (if u take out the ps and alt you can get the compressor to lift hi enuf to clear and sit on coresupport with lines still hooked up )

if u have a lift
lower van on to crate or block sit under motor and trans ( lower untill weaght is taken off mounts then remove the three remaning mounts )
slide motor 3" to the front of the van thin lift van back up and motor will be on the floor




if on stands good luck its fun
you can use two jacks to do this or use hosest tied to front crash beem to lift van up (sounds silly but it works)

tools
36mm socket for axles
10,12,14,17,19 wrench and sockets
phillips screw driver
drain pans

hope this helps
 
WooWoo obviously PhotoBucket was down for maintenance.

Here's all the stuff in order. Hope this came out alright.

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