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topflite2673

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Good day, need help... The Radiator Fan is not working during Normal Engine Run, but when i Turn-ON the AC, the Radiator Fan and Condenser Fan is working synchronously (Start and Stop at the same time). I could not locate the Radiator Fan switch?

Secondly can someone help me for i want to install RPM Tachometer Gauge, Lube Oil Press Gauge, where can i put the following sensors / gauges?


JAPAN MADE ODYSSEY
Est. 1995 Model
Converted from RHD to LHD
 

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Good day, need help... The Radiator Fan is not working during Normal Engine Run, but when i Turn-ON the AC, the Radiator Fan and Condenser Fan is working synchronously (Start and Stop at the same time). I could not locate the Radiator Fan switch?

Secondly can someone help me for i want to install RPM Tachometer Gauge, Lube Oil Press Gauge, where can i put the following sensors / gauges?


JAPAN MADE ODYSSEY
Est. 1995 Model
Converted from RHD to LHD
It sounds like there is a problem in your main thermo-switch circuit. It could be the switch itself has gone bad, or it could be a problem in the wiring to the switch. The main thermo-switch for the cooling fan is located on the thermostat cover where the lower radiator hose attaches to it. Check that the wiring connector is firmly connected to the switch and that the wire itself is in good shape. This thermo-switch is set to close the circuit to ground when the coolant reaches about 200 deg.F. The secondary thermo-switch for the cooling fan is located where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine. It does not close the circuit to ground until the coolant reaches about 225 deg. F. This is the switch that will keep the cooling fan running after the engine has been turned off if the engine is really hot.

A cool way to add a tachometer is to swap in a gauge cluster from a 1996 Acura TL. Here's a link to the Odyclub thread about doing this cluster swap:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/28-1995-1998-odyssey/152446-how-convert-96-tl-cluster-95-odyssey.html

Good luck!
 
Are you testing the fan while the vehicle coolant temperature is hot enough to cause the fan to come on? In other words, are you trying this while the vehicle is cold or after you have left it warm up or driven the vehicle?

jonblack
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
@ Tallra1
I already checked the wirings, and its all in good shape, but i havent check yet the main thermo-switch.

@johnblack
I checked it while it is on cold state, but then when turn the AC ON the Radiator Fan turn on, so I let the AC ON while i drive my car, after 30mins driving if i turn the AC OFF, the RADIATOR FAN still dont work, even the Radiator Temp was hot.
 
The coolant temp has to be hot for the fan to come on. Yes, the fan will come on when you turn the A/C on, so that proves the fan works. Leave the A/C off for the rest of the test.

Start your vehicle, and let it idle for 10-15 minutes. Depending on the ambient temperature in your location, this should be long enough for the coolant temp to get hot and the thermostat to open up. Watch the vehicle and see if the cooling fan comes on.

Driving your car is a good way to get the coolant temp hot. But, you are also forcing cool air through the radiator while you drive, which is cooling the coolant. So, the coolant might not be hot enough to call the cooling fan to turn on.

You can also drive the car a few miles, bring it back home, leave the A/C off, and leave the car running in the driveway. If you leave the hood closed it will keep everything hot. But, you will then have to listen for the cooling fan to come on.

My best guess (over the internet) is that you would be overheating if your cooling fan was not working, especially if you drive in stop-and-go or traffic conditions.

Let us know how it goes.

jonblack
 
It sounds like there is a problem in your main thermo-switch circuit. It could be the switch itself has gone bad, or it could be a problem in the wiring to the switch. The main thermo-switch for the cooling fan is located on the thermostat cover where the lower radiator hose attaches to it. Check that the wiring connector is firmly connected to the switch and that the wire itself is in good shape. This thermo-switch is set to close the circuit to ground when the coolant reaches about 200 deg.F. The secondary thermo-switch for the cooling fan is located where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine. It does not close the circuit to ground until the coolant reaches about 225 deg. F. This is the switch that will keep the cooling fan running after the engine has been turned off if the engine is really hot.

A cool way to add a tachometer is to swap in a gauge cluster from a 1996 Acura TL. Here's a link to the Odyclub thread about doing this cluster swap:

How to convert the 96 tl cluster to 95 odyssey

Good luck!
Dear Tallra1,
Thank you for your above post.
It was extremely helpful for debugging my thermostat-switch!
Take care.
 
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