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I am resurrecting this thread because I have had weirdness with my overhead lights. First, the drivers side map light was out. I assumed burnt bulb. When I got to checking it a few days later, I jostled the bulb and bingo, it came on again! All was fine until yesterday, when BOTH the front map lights were inoperative. Huh. So I get up into there to rejigger the bulbs and I get a tiny flash of light but then nothing. So I stick my screwdriver up in there and then must have shorted something because now NONE of the interior lights work, at all.

But it was SUPER HUMID last night so I'm wondering if it has something to do with heat/humidity maybe fouling a connection somewhere.

I will also check the drivers and passengers door switches as mentioned here.

Luckily I am still under warranty but if it's an easy fix I'd rather just do it rather than dropping car at dealer, going without car for a day, etc.
 
New here, but I've been using the info in this thread to help me out. So, I was having the same front map light issue ( on my 2008 EXL). First, the driver side map light would not turn on with the door (passenger side ok) or dim, but the switch worked on the light itself to turn it on. Then, a few weeks later the passenger map light went out completely. I tested both bulbs and they were fine. So, I ordered two of the mentioned switches from Mouser: http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductD...688-SPED210200

I got them today and took down the map light assembly and replaced both switches (very easy). Now, both of my lights are fixed and dim properly and operate properly. Thanks for everyone's suggestions...I really appreciate it. I hope this helps someone else out
 
lwong or lee330 - how did you replace the switch on the base unit? I removed the base unit from the car to inspect it and it appears the backside looks somewhat like a circuit board. I was afraid to fiddle with anything for fear of snapping one of the aluminum metal pieces. Is there a trick to replacing only the switch on the base unit?
 
I don't know if you got a response to your question, but I fixed this problem in my van today. I didn't even need new switches. Once you remove the overhead unit, you can pop out the map light and homelink module. The switches slide out to the right and left. I noticed corrosion on the middle pin on both sides, which is the ground conductor. I scraped the corrosion off, reassembled everything, and it's as good as new.

lwong or lee330 - how did you replace the switch on the base unit? I removed the base unit from the car to inspect it and it appears the backside looks somewhat like a circuit board. I was afraid to fiddle with anything for fear of snapping one of the aluminum metal pieces. Is there a trick to replacing only the switch on the base unit?
 
I am new here and having the same issues with my map lights. One went out, then the other. If I were going to try to replace the bulbs first, what kind of bulbs do I need? I just ordered bulbs from mouser.com to replace the climate control lights that are out. However, the switch is no longer available for purchase.
 
The bulbs in the map lights are special 8W bulbs and only available from Honda. You can put a 10W in there from the auto parts store that Sylvania will tell you is the right bulb but you'll find after a few months that the 10W bulb has melted your plastic dome light housing.

The way to find out if you need a bulb or if there is another problem is to test the bulb with an ohm meter and/or test the bulb socket with a test light. If someone has replaced the bulbs once before look up in the socket closely and see if there is plastic melted down over the bulb socket contacts.
 
So I thought I would post the link for a PAIR of switches. Way cheaper than just one from Honda. I had one out in our 2008 Odyssey and just spent 15 minutes replacing both this evening. I will keep the single working switch as a spare now. I found these switches from a google search online so I felt it was appropriate to post here to help others. For our van it worked great. Let's hope it lasts.

I will post the link in the next post as my post count is to low to attach links.
 
Those, if they work out of the package, will probably give you a year or two before breaking again. In my experience, Dorman electrical parts are usually junk.
 
Just FYI: For my 2006 Odyssey EX-L, the replacement AMP part # was SPED210203 (connector attach), _not_ SPED210200 (PCB attach) as noted in previous posts. Check the specification photos on the AMP site to make sure you’re buying what you need. I’m a newbie & can’t post links, so I’ll defer to others for that if I’m not off base.
At only 86¢/ea + $8 shipping for the AMP versions from Mouser, I didn’t bother with the questionably-reviewed Dorman clones on Amazon.
Thanks OdyClub!
 
From www.mouser.com I ordered two of the switches ALPS SPED210203. Each switch is $2.78, for a total of $5.56, plus $4.99 shipping for a grand total of $10.55. The $4.99 shipping is for residential deliveries, takes 3-10 days, and is listed at the very, very bottom of the numerous shipping options. Faster shipping is available. On my 2006 LX one switch is not working, and since they're so cheap I thought I'd replace the other at the same time. My local dealer in O'Fallon, Illinois whose parts department is quite helpful, unfortunately can't order the switches by themselves as others have mentioned. Pricing as of 9-24-2018. THANK YOU to all the OdyClub members who post helpful information!
 
Just spent a few minutes with the same problems cited above with map lights on my 2010 Ody. Removed the overhead module and checked that voltage was getting to the map lights/switches. There was, so I took out the switches, sprayed in contact cleaner, worked it several times and they came back to life. Easy fix, not sure how long this will last, but not complicated. Thanks for those that contributed to this thread.
 
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