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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Odyssey 2010 bought in Fredericton NB with a 0.40 A battery draw. Spent two days at Sutherland Honda in Fredericton, New Brunswick, waiting. Result: "Sorry, can't fix it." So, went to Craig Auto Electric, reportedly pros in this kind of thing. After a full day, with the interior of the car including the dashboard completely removed, same answer: "We don't know what causes this battery draw.

Rewind.

I knew that some circuit protected by Fuse # 7 (7.5 A) in the driver's side was causing this draw. Circuits involved are sliding doors, remote control, and possibly other things unknown to me. Drove for 2 weeks handling the doors manually, with the 40 Amp fuse (in the engine compartment) removed at night. Honda people said the relay box in the back faulty. They changed the box, current draw went down to 250 mA. Unacceptable. They said: "Sorry". If you disconnected two wire harnesses from that relay box, the current draw goes down to zero. But the people at Craig think the battery draw comes from something other than the sliding doors. Both rear latch units work fine, micro switches fully operational.

After nearly $600 (all expenses included, having to rent motel, taxis, labor charges, etc), the beautiful Honda Odyssey refuses to reveal its mysteries, even to experts.

Seems I am only one of hundreds (thousands?) world wide with an unexplained battery draw. This should have been the object of a recall. Hey Honda, wake up, this is not in line with your reputation!!!
 

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Look at the other threads on the battery draw due to the doors. I know someone looked through everything and did end up finding a solution. And it was a pretty strange diagnosis if I remember correctly.

I'll reply with it if I find it

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Odyssey 2010 bought in Fredericton NB with a 0.40 A battery draw. Spent two days at Sutherland Honda in Fredericton, New Brunswick, waiting. Result: "Sorry, can't fix it." So, went to Craig Auto Electric, reportedly pros in this kind of thing. After a full day, with the interior of the car including the dashboard completely removed, same answer: "We don't know what causes this battery draw.

Rewind.

I knew that some circuit protected by Fuse # 7 (7.5 A) in the driver's side was causing this draw. Circuits involved are sliding doors, remote control, and possibly other things unknown to me. Drove for 2 weeks handling the doors manually, with the 40 Amp fuse (in the engine compartment) removed at night. Honda people said the relay box in the back faulty. They changed the box, current draw went down to 250 mA. Unacceptable. They said: "Sorry". If you disconnected two wire harnesses from that relay box, the current draw goes down to zero. But the people at Craig think the battery draw comes from something other than the sliding doors. Both rear latch units work fine, micro switches fully operational.

After nearly $600 (all expenses included, having to rent motel, taxis, labor charges, etc), the beautiful Honda Odyssey refuses to reveal its mysteries, even to experts.

Seems I am only one of hundreds (thousands?) world wide with an unexplained battery draw. This should have been the object of a recall. Hey Honda, wake up, this is not in line with your reputation!!!
How do you know the microswitches are fully operational? 400mA parasitic draw is almost always one of the door latches. Seen it a hundred times here. I doubt your van is something that different.
 

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How do you know the microswitches are fully operational? 400mA parasitic draw is almost always one of the door latches. Seen it a hundred times here. I doubt your van is something that different.
I agree here, it could be a pretty small difference from the factory spec but would be enough to throw it off and keep the motor trying to pull the door shut fully

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't know for sure, but I was told by the mechanic that the latches and micro switches worked fine and freely. Gotta believe them. My wife who is from Thailand decided to do a search online in Thailand about this battery draw on the Odyssey. Same widespread problems encountered in Thailand with apparently no solutions from Honda. I have used Honda products for years, cars and several motorcycles. I have to admit this is beginning to affect my admiration for this company. A car with a problem that the company itself cannot solve. Great. Honda should at the very least publish a paper on that,
 

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I would say it is not really big enough of a problem to them because they probably don't have most of the complaints directed at them any more.
Had this happened when this gen was a few years old maybe they would have done something about it but, almost 10 years after the end of the generation they're not going to do much about it. Also this is more than well documented in forums which are publicly available. If you had a shop looking at this it seems like this would be one of the first places to check by someone who knows about these or even looks online.

I'm not saying that it's not a problem but, out of 3 Odysseys in my family none of them have had this issue . They are one 2002 ex-l, one 2007 EX, and one 2009 EX-L, the 07 has had the rollers replaced after 3 years of them not working and never had switch issues. This is still a small sample size so I'm not saying it doesn't happen but a lot of people probably didn't have the issue while the van was still relatively new.

From what I've seen this seems more like a wear issue than a flawed design.
Sorry for the long kinda rant

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I don't know for sure, but I was told by the mechanic that the latches and micro switches worked fine and freely. Gotta believe them. My wife who is from Thailand decided to do a search online in Thailand about this battery draw on the Odyssey. Same widespread problems encountered in Thailand with apparently no solutions from Honda. I have used Honda products for years, cars and several motorcycles. I have to admit this is beginning to affect my admiration for this company. A car with a problem that the company itself cannot solve. Great. Honda should at the very least publish a paper on that,
Again, I've seen it a hundred times here. A 400mA draw on that fuse is one of the sliding doors. The only way to know if the switches are working properly is to look at their status on an enhanced data scan tool. If they didn't do that then there is no way they know if they're working or not. When the base position switch sticks in the wrong position it causes a 400mA parasitic battery draw. Seen it many times. Have you ever seen the "Slide Door" light on the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The only times I saw that light was when the door was not fully closed. The mechanic says he did run a scan on both latches. Extremely frustrating. Now the mechanic says Fuse 7 covers a whole bunch of other things. He dismantled the dash and I told hum to stop. On the basic 2010 model, Fuse 7 covers only the sliding doors. What a mess. Nothing like that ever happened to me with any other car, ever...
 

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The only times I saw that light was when the door was not fully closed. The mechanic says he did run a scan on both latches. Extremely frustrating. Now the mechanic says Fuse 7 covers a whole bunch of other things. He dismantled the dash and I told hum to stop. On the basic 2010 model, Fuse 7 covers only the sliding doors. What a mess. Nothing like that ever happened to me with any other car, ever...
The ONLY time you will see the message that says "SLIDE DOOR" is if there is a malfunction in the door circuit. It is not a door open light, though it is indirectly. A slide door that doesn't shut all the way is another indication of a problem since you don't slam these doors to shut them. An electronic latch with four different microswitches in it pulls the door shut. If there is a problem in the rear latch the door will often pop back out about a 1/2" or so. It can also give the 400mA parasitic draw. I can almost guarantee you have a slide door rear latch causing your drain. Do you remember which door didn't shut all the way? I'd bet my lunch money that's probably the latch causing the issue.

If you have pulled the fuse, disconnected the battery, or cleared the codes since since that happened there may no longer be a code stored but lets go ahead and check just in case. Take a piece of wire, preferably stranded wire, and jump the #4 and #9 pins on the DLC like the pic shown below.



Now turn on the key. You can scroll through the B-CAN codes on the gauge display. Post any codes you have listed there.
 

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Odyssey 2010 bought in Fredericton NB with a 0.40 A battery draw. Spent two days at Sutherland Honda in Fredericton, New Brunswick, waiting. Result: "Sorry, can't fix it." So, went to Craig Auto Electric, reportedly pros in this kind of thing. After a full day, with the interior of the car including the dashboard completely removed, same answer: "We don't know what causes this battery draw.Rewind.I knew that some circuit protected by Fuse # 7 (7.5 A) in the driver's side was causing this draw. Circuits involved are sliding doors, remote control, and possibly other things unknown to me. Drove for 2 weeks handling the doors manually, with the 40 Amp fuse (in the engine compartment) removed at night. Honda people said the relay box in the back faulty. They changed the box, current draw went down to 250 mA. Unacceptable. They said: "Sorry". If you disconnected two wire harnesses from that relay box, the current draw goes down to zero. But the people at Craig think the battery draw comes from something other than the sliding doors. Both rear latch units work fine, micro switches fully operational.After nearly $600 (all expenses included, having to rent motel, taxis, labor charges, etc), the beautiful Honda Odyssey refuses to reveal its mysteries, even to experts.Seems I am only one of hundreds (thousands?) world wide with an unexplained battery draw. This should have been the object of a recall. Hey Honda, wake up, this is not in line with your reputation!!!
Hah, I am from SJ, NB, same problem here. I already gave up after testing all the fuses and relays, still couldn't find the problem. my solution is pull out 40A fuse in the engine compartment box every time I park the car.
 

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if anyone needs passenger door (driver side) latch (OEM #[FONT=&quot]72650-SHJ-A22), i can sell one for $130. it is taken from 06 EXL. Works perfectly.[/FONT]
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Conclusion

My 2010 spent 2 days at Honda Sutherland in Fredericton, NB. Nothing found, still 0.40 amp draw. They tried a new control box (at right rear of car), to no avail. Then, the car was examined by Craig Auto Clinic, also in Fredericton, NB. They are specialists of electrical problems. They removed nearly all the plastic covers from the interior, checked all sliding door micro switches with a scanner. All operational. After nearly 12 hours, I told them to stop to cut costs. The mystery remains, indeed, forever. Instead of removing the 40 amp fuse in the engine compartment, or the 7.5 amp fuse #7 on the driver side, i disconnected two wire harnesses controlling the sliding doors from the control box in the back. Still have a 0.15 amp draw, which was not there before all these inspections took place.Honda can't do it, a car electric shop can't do it.Never saw such thing before in any of my 40 cars...What's wrong with the Odyssey? What's wrong with Honda?
 

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My 2010 spent 2 days at Honda Sutherland in Fredericton, NB. Nothing found, still 0.40 amp draw. They tried a new control box (at right rear of car), to no avail. Then, the car was examined by Craig Auto Clinic, also in Fredericton, NB. They are specialists of electrical problems. They removed nearly all the plastic covers from the interior, checked all sliding door micro switches with a scanner. All operational. After nearly 12 hours, I told them to stop to cut costs. The mystery remains, indeed, forever. Instead of removing the 40 amp fuse in the engine compartment, or the 7.5 amp fuse #7 on the driver side, i disconnected two wire harnesses controlling the sliding doors from the control box in the back. Still have a 0.15 amp draw, which was not there before all these inspections took place.Honda can't do it, a car electric shop can't do it.Never saw such thing before in any of my 40 cars...What's wrong with the Odyssey? What's wrong with Honda?
I'm done helping. I've given you the reason for the draw but you refuse to believe me. If it were me, I'd replace the rear door latch on the sliding door that wouldn't close all the way and turned on the "Slide Door" light. But good luck with it.
 

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I agree with John. Based on his experience he told you what the likely cause is and what to do to fix it. Seems like you spent a lot of time and money on diagnostics but did not take the step to implement the fix suggested to you. This is a common problem with an easy fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Dear John...

I really appreciated your help, no doubt about that. But both of my doors close properly, no light appears on the dashboard, and all four micro switches on the latches are said to be operational. I told both the mechanic at Honda, and the one at Craig Clinic that the problem is with the rear latches. I am not competent to replace the latches myself (and assume the additional costs), so I must rely on experts. I told both mechanics about this forum, i showed them the YouTube video of how to repair the micro switch levers. What more can I do? Both mechanics are incompetent or liars?
 

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I don't think the parasitic 0.4 amp battery draw caused by the faulty door latch can be detected by any diagnostic. I could be wrong. People that have had this identical issue replaced their door latch and the issue was solved. You could ask your mechanics to replace the door latch. This may not be your issue, but there is a good chance that it is.
 

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You followed none of my instructions so not sure why you even post here. You decided to spend hundreds/thousands of dollars on diagnostics when I told you how to check for codes for free...even if there may not be any because they've been cleared. I also told you about the "Slide Door" light and what it means and that accompanied by the 0.400A parasitic draw tells me you have a sliding door rear latch problem. It's been posted here so many times that as soon as someone says 400mA or 0.4A draw it's a dead giveaway. Instead, you chose to take it to another shop and a Honda dealer who couldn't determine the problem. Honda dealers, or any dealers, are some of the worst diagnosticians because their techs don't get paid for it so they want the car out of their bay.

Also, for reasons unknown to me, a faulty switch doesn't always turn on the slide door light. The only way to know is to watch all four switches on a scan tool and see what they're doing when the door opens and closes. A code for base position switch (that is the switch that usually fails and causes the amp draw) is another dead giveaway but the lack of a code doesn't mean anything either, especially when the codes have been cleared during troubleshooting.
 

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Also, they are definitely incompetent, or at least ill-equipped, if you bring your car to a shop and the shop cannot fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How do I know which side to replace? As I said, my problem shows no symptom other than a 0.40 amp draw: no light, doors close well, and tech did scan all 4 switches. I'm willing to try to replace the rear latch, but how do i know which side? And, of course, thank you.
 
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