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Go back and read read what John said previously because he has already said how to figure out which one it is. It is more than likely the one you had an issue with not closing all the way before. If you don't remember, you'll just have to wait for the door to pop out or look for a light to come on.

Reread what has already been stated because there are some really helpful tips there

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It was suggested in another thread that someone wanting to convert to manual doors, that unplugging all wiring going to the rear door latch will not cause a battery drain. I would deduce that if that is the case, it would make sense that if a bad switch in the door latch is causing a battery drain that simply unplugging the door latch wire connectors would solve it. If the drain is already there then it may take a fuse reset or battery terminal removal to reset everything but trying this might tell you if the drain is coming from the doors or not without buying new latches.
 

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It was suggested in another thread that someone wanting to convert to manual doors, that unplugging all wiring going to the rear door latch will not cause a battery drain. I would deduce that if that is the case, it would make sense that if a bad switch in the door latch is causing a battery drain that simply unplugging the door latch wire connectors would solve it. If the drain is already there then it may take a fuse reset or battery terminal removal to reset everything but trying this might tell you if the drain is coming from the doors or not without buying new latches.
The guy who owned my van before me had all the plugs unplugged inside the passenger slider. My van would drain the battery with it setup this way so my assumption is one of the circuits showing as open is an issue. I didn't dig in any further, I instead fixed the issue and all has been good for close to a year.
 

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That's why I used the term "suggested" and "might." In this other thread the guy was told by a "Honda tech" that disconnecting the rear door latch motor and switches would make the door manual and would not drain the battery, and that it's a popular option for owners who don't want to pay to fix the doors. I was skeptical in that thread and I'm skeptical here.
 

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Right. In my case the motor itself was not unplugged, they were too lazy to open up that rear cover I assume.
 

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My honda 2005 had a the same battery draining issue, we just lub all of the tracks and roller for sledding doors, and lub the gasket to doors, we have seen on a foreign language video where a guy mentioned that apparently the gasket itself has a switch inside and if not able to seal nice and smooth the switch inside that seal malfunctions. we also noticed that there was a lot of dirt and papers at the end of the track by the front side of one door and it probably was causing it not to fully close to allow the motor to go to the neutral resting position. Good luck I hope that this helps.
 

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The only seal with a switch in it is the pinch sensor in front. It won't cause a battery drain, at least not that I've ever seen reported or have experienced. Lubing the door seals is not going to fix the battery drain issue, either. It is caused by at least one of the switches in the rear latch.
 

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Odyssey 2010 bought in Fredericton NB with a 0.40 A battery draw. Spent two days at Sutherland Honda in Fredericton, New Brunswick, waiting. Result: "Sorry, can't fix it." So, went to Craig Auto Electric, reportedly pros in this kind of thing. After a full day, with the interior of the car including the dashboard completely removed, same answer: "We don't know what causes this battery draw.

Rewind.

I knew that some circuit protected by Fuse # 7 (7.5 A) in the driver's side was causing this draw. Circuits involved are sliding doors, remote control, and possibly other things unknown to me. Drove for 2 weeks handling the doors manually, with the 40 Amp fuse (in the engine compartment) removed at night. Honda people said the relay box in the back faulty. They changed the box, current draw went down to 250 mA. Unacceptable. They said: "Sorry". If you disconnected two wire harnesses from that relay box, the current draw goes down to zero. But the people at Craig think the battery draw comes from something other than the sliding doors. Both rear latch units work fine, micro switches fully operational.

After nearly $600 (all expenses included, having to rent motel, taxis, labor charges, etc), the beautiful Honda Odyssey refuses to reveal its mysteries, even to experts.

Seems I am only one of hundreds (thousands?) world wide with an unexplained battery draw. This should have been the object of a recall. Hey Honda, wake up, this is not in line with your reputation!!!
You are not the only one I have the same problem, and have pulled the fuses for the sliding door and still have the problem. If you find the answer please share.
 

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It's not a mystery. It's caused by a bad microswitch in one of the rear sliding door latches.
 

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Today
It's not a mystery. It's caused by a bad microswitch in one of the rear sliding door latches.
Thanks. Both my sliding doors are broke and I use manual. Today I took rear panels off and unplugged the harness wires to the motor relay and motor. And you are right The Amp draw went for 0.45 down to 0.14,which I hope is what it should be??? I am surprised pulling the fuses for rear door didn't take care of this but hopefully it. Thanks for replying
 

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145mA is still a tad high if everything is asleep. It should be in the 50mA range.

Often the problem is just a sticky cam in the latch and cleaning a lubrication will fix it. Sometimes it's the switches themselves that fail.
 
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John Clark
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