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im new to the forum. i have 01 with a bad wheel bearing front rightside im working on it tomorrow so i need info on how to do the job or better somewhere i can find service manual for that one job. can anyone please help
 

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I replaced both front wheel bearings on my '01 a couple of years ago. it takes a very large press (I used a 50 ton press) to get the bearings out of the hubs. They are pressed in there quite hard. If you don't have access to one, I would remove the assembly and take it to an automotive machine shop and let them tackle it. Good luck!!
 

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im new to the forum. i have 01 with a bad wheel bearing front rightside im working on it tomorrow so i need info on how to do the job or better somewhere i can find service manual for that one job. can anyone please help
Good luck on the repair...
 

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The book calls for Knuckle removal from the car, then press the OUTER Race out.

However, there is another way w/o removing the knuckle. I am listing the procedure from 3rd Gen Ody, but for your 2001 Ody, it is almost identical.

Go to Advance Autoparts and RENT (free, just deposit the credit card, then they refund you the money once you return the tools).

1. Balljoint Adapter Set has all the sleeves (adapters) you need.




2. Go buy the Tie Rod Remover KDT3533 ($35 at Tooltopia.com) because Advance Autoparts does not rent this tool. This is a 5-ton puller and it good for many uses in the future.
This tool is good for:
a. Removing the balljoint from the knuckle.
b. Pressing out the HUB!

It is the same tool seen below. In that pic, the knuckle (from a Toyota) is removed to show the use of this Tie Rod Remover KDT3533, but you can leave the steering knuckle alone in the car.

The socket fits on the Hub, not the bearing Inner Race!. This way when the Hub is pressed out, The "Outer" part of the Inner Race comes out with it.

1. With Van on the ground and an assistant pressing on the brake pedal to lock the wheel:
- Loosen (but do NOT remove) the Axle Nut using 36-mm socket and 1/2" drive and a 4ft section of 1" iron pipe (the 1" iron pipe is about $8 at Home Depot).
- Another option is air tool.

2. Wheel off, van properly supported: jackstand under subframe.

3. Brake Caliper off and hang it on the spring using wire.
Then remove brake rotor.

4. Now remove the 36-mm nut.

5. Disconnect Control Arms' Lower ball joint, taking care not to damage the rubber boot.

6. Using a gear puller, press on the Drive Axle to push it inward.
Again, take care not to damage the Axle rubber boots.

7. Now Remove the Hub from the Steering Knuckle. This is the tricky part!!!
Some do it with the Steering Knuckle in place and some remove the Steering Knuckle.

- Remember the OUTER race is pressed fit in the Steering Knuckle.
- The INNER races have 2 parts, so when you press the Hub out, the INNER race's outer part comes out with the Hub.
- The INNER race's outer part stays with the OUTER race for now.

* To remove the Hub, ther are basically 3 ways:

a. "Hub Tamer": very expensive tool, the pro uses it.

b. "Slide Hammer", I never like this technique.

c. "Press from inside". The following is from a Toyota Celica but it clearly shows you how to press the Hub out. The very 36-mm axle socket usually fits inside and is pushing on the Hub itself (look in the hole with flashlight, you will see the Hub Spline inside the bearing inner race). Now the Hub should come out with the INNER race's outer part:



8. Now you can remove the circlip locking the Bearing Outer Race in place.
Then press the bearing OUTER race using appropriate plumbing reducer pressing on the INNER race's inner part (remember the INNER race has 2 parts, 1 of which already came out with the Hub).
Same technique as above Toyota Celica picture.

9. To install new bearing:
- Grease the Steering Knuckle bearing seat a bit to prevent future rusting.
- Using appropriate adapter (some plumbing "reducers"), drive the OUTER race into the Steering Knuckle, do not drive on the INNER Race!
- Install new circlip.
- Now using appropriate adapter that fits on the INNER race diameter: fit the adapter on the Inside of the bearing (from engine side), fit the Hub gently n the outside, and use appropriate adapter to seat the hub.
Whatever you do, do not apply any stress on the OUTER race at this time.
Also no need to press the hub all the way in because once you have the axel back in, you can use the 36-mm nut to further seat the Hub.
Look up the 36-mm nut torque and do the final tightening ONLY when the car is back on the ground and with an assistant pressing on the brake pedal.


The following is from Honda Accord but the guy removed the Steering Knuckle to remove the bearing:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2685054

Anyway, post some pics when you are done.
 

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If you do not have access to a large press, then just replace the hub assembly as a complete unit.
Actually the hydraulic press is used to press out the OUTER Race (via the INNER Race). This way you can keep the steering knuckle.
See the pdf files posted above by "New Dad New Van".
 

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If the Balljoint Adapter Set (listed above) does not have the Sleeves (aka Adapters) you need, then they (Advance Autoparts) also carry FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapters set, something like this.

Harbor Freight sells this tool for $90, but I believe you can rent it from Advance Autoparts instead.

FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapters


 

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I replaced both front wheel bearings on my '01 a couple of years ago. it takes a very large press (I used a 50 ton press) to get the bearings out of the hubs.
So, can I use a 5-ton tie-rod puller like CNN or do I need a 50-ton press? I can afford the 5-ton puller but hard to justify a 50-ton press.
 

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This is what I do for bearings or other components that need to be pressed in...
Remove the knuckle from the car... Go to a machince shop and pay them to press it in... Cost should be between $5 and $20 depending on how much the shop wants to gouge you.
Works for struts too, I remove the old ones, take them to sears and they take the springs off the old ones and put them on the new struts. $15 a piece.
 

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Hello, one year later... left wheel bearing went bad when repair shop could not take it out? they said it was fusioned or stick together, broke the "spindle", now waiting for the part so they can continue... after market bearing plan with Honda specs... sounded like they were trying to hammer it out, we are now in Texas, but bought the car in Western New York and spent 2 winters with Great Lake's effect snow... Ody 2007; 93,000 miles
 

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I too had one fused together between the axle and the hub on a none Honda in the past. I tried with different presses and torches until the knuckle broke. So it ended up replacing the whole CV axle and knuckle assembly. But if I cut the axle along the green line shown in pic I might be able to save the knuckle. Advice is if you can't press it out the first try, go ahead and replace the whole thing because it is not worth the time and effort.

 

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"Remove the knuckle from the car... Go to a machince shop and pay them to press it in... Cost should be between $5 and $20 depending on how much the shop wants to gouge you. " - Naim

I went to a local shop and got both sides pressed for 40. Thought that was ok since he had to cut the bearing race that comes out with on hub. I would have done this myself if I had those tools shown above but figured this is a time saver as well.

Both were toast and had black grease all over the area. I cleaned it before pic.
20150912_111513.jpg
 

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"Remove the knuckle from the car... Go to a machince shop and pay them to press it in... Cost should be between $5 and $20 depending on how much the shop wants to gouge you. " - Naim

I went to a local shop and got both sides pressed for 40. Thought that was ok since he had to cut the bearing race that comes out with on hub. I would have done this myself if I had those tools shown above but figured this is a time saver as well.

Both were toast and had black grease all over the area. I cleaned it before pic.
View attachment 69961
Surgeon, did you notice that the front end quieted down after wheel bearing replacement? I sure did -- did not realize how much growling/hum that I had become accustomed.
 

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Ron777, OMG. It is night and day. I guess for many people it is one bearing and preference to replace one or both. For me, both went. The ride is so different now. I still have a little of the tire noise because of bad strut (bearings) issue. In addition to being accustomed, we did not have a new (or newer) car for so long that we had nothing to compare to also.
 

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Looking at post #6 above, the inner bearing race is still on the hub. How is the inner bearing race removed?
Do not see how here. Service manual says use special too. See picture.
Elsewhere, it said use a grinder and grind a diagonal slot in inner bearing race, hit with chisel until inner bearing race cracks, remove inner bearing race. inner wheel bearing race and remove with special tool.jpg
 

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+1 for the grinding a diagonal slot - use a dremel or similar small-radius grinding tool. You just have to take it slow to avoid grinding into the knuckle. I have a 20 ton press for doing wheel bearings and still prefer to pop the races out by grinding.
 

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Which side of wheel bearing toward differential closer to ABS sensor

DSCF0362 TIMKEN BEARING.jpg DSCF0366 TIMKEN BEARING.jpg TIMKEN 510059 HONDA ODYSSEY ALL 99-04.jpg
Which side of wheel bearing toward differential near middle of car closer to ABS sensor?
See pictures of both sides of new bearing.
One side has black ring that looks like grease seal.
Other side almost all metal color.

Right front wheel bearing needs to be replaced. 2002 Odyssey
Bought Timken 510059 made in USA.
Which side should be toward center of car so ABS sensor will sense correctly?

On some bearings, might see line pattern like rays on side toward ABS sensor. Or paper clip will stick to side toward ABS sensor. Do not see either feature in this bearing which Timken recommends for all Odysseys 99-04. Sent question to Timken but will be days for reply to come back.

Thanks
 

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Which way does bearing go? Found answer. '99-04, front bearing black seal side goes outside, mostly metal side goes toward center of car. See image from service manual. Bearing mounting direction might have nothing to do with ABS as axle has tone ring already and sensor is in knuckle right over tone ring.
 

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I was looking for this answer about a week ago...match, you are a hero. :cheers:

This is such a good thread. So much information. I'm just starting to get a little noise from one of the front wheel bearings on my 2003 EX.

Have a good 4th of July. :cool:

OF
 
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