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Yesterday I unlocked my 2 week old '02 EX and pressed the open driver's sliding door button on my remote. The Ody responded with a beep tone which usually indicates that I didn't unlock the doors first (don't even get me started on how stupid that is). So, I unlocked the doors again and tried one more time. Same deal. ARGH!
I then manually pulled on the handled which opened the door the first little bit and it happily slid back under power. I tried to close it and the door closed almost entirely but then seemed to stop where it usually pulls the door in and latches it. I listened closely and realized that the latching motor section (the one that kicks in after the door has slid the full distance) was not coming on at all.
Great! I thought two weeks old and my power door fails. I was all set to take it into service when it occured to me that earlier that day I had removed the POWER WINDOW fuse because I just had the front windows tinted and didn't want to wreck the tinting by absent-mindedly rolling the windows down. It didn't make any sense for that fuse to effect the power doors because there's a separate fuse for the power sliding doors. Anyhow, I replaced the fuse and voila... the power door was working again.
The point of this post is only to let you know that the power sliding door fuse on the '02 supplies power to the entire motor section of the passenger door, but only the slide motor for the driver's door. The latch motor is tied into the POWER WINDOW fuse. Huh?... that certainly seems strange wiring or at least strange fuse labeling on Honda's part.
The only explanation I can come up with is that the latch motors are probably the highest current motors for the power doors and running both from the same 40A fuse would probably blow it if they both engaged at the same time. That's one reason I never engage both doors simulaneously anyway.
In any case, I thought some of you might find this a little interesting. Others may wonder why they read all the way to the bottom of this post.
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Scott
I then manually pulled on the handled which opened the door the first little bit and it happily slid back under power. I tried to close it and the door closed almost entirely but then seemed to stop where it usually pulls the door in and latches it. I listened closely and realized that the latching motor section (the one that kicks in after the door has slid the full distance) was not coming on at all.
Great! I thought two weeks old and my power door fails. I was all set to take it into service when it occured to me that earlier that day I had removed the POWER WINDOW fuse because I just had the front windows tinted and didn't want to wreck the tinting by absent-mindedly rolling the windows down. It didn't make any sense for that fuse to effect the power doors because there's a separate fuse for the power sliding doors. Anyhow, I replaced the fuse and voila... the power door was working again.
The point of this post is only to let you know that the power sliding door fuse on the '02 supplies power to the entire motor section of the passenger door, but only the slide motor for the driver's door. The latch motor is tied into the POWER WINDOW fuse. Huh?... that certainly seems strange wiring or at least strange fuse labeling on Honda's part.
The only explanation I can come up with is that the latch motors are probably the highest current motors for the power doors and running both from the same 40A fuse would probably blow it if they both engaged at the same time. That's one reason I never engage both doors simulaneously anyway.
In any case, I thought some of you might find this a little interesting. Others may wonder why they read all the way to the bottom of this post.
Scott
