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Performed this repair on my wife's van yesterday, driver's side. Used the 1/2 OD nylon spacer, ground down to about 3/16 long.
It might be easier just to purchase a 3/16" long spacer, as those seem to be readily available online. Used a dremel with a flat disc cutter to ground away the retaining ring.

Looks like the original parts are all metric, but good luck trying to find a 14mm OD nylon spacer! A 9/16" OD spacer would match better, but again, hard to find. You can get 4mm e-clips though.

Thanks to the OP for saving me a LOT of time and money! :)
 

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02Honda02,

I did it!!!! You're the MAN!!!

First of all, many thanks for the great post on doing this repair with very little cost ($2.39 sales tax included) and easy to do. Also, thanks to rtw_travel for the nice photos on how to remove the side panel.

I used a sharpie to mark the original mounting location of the roller assembly on the door before removing the 2 bolts holding the roller assembly to the door. After removing the 2 bolts, the roller assembly came out of the track almost on its own. As you said, I left the auto-door cable attached to the roller assembly, then began removing the existing ring on the roller post. I used the Dremel with metal grinding wheel (about 1/16" thick). At first I used thicker grind wheel and noticed that it was grinding off the head of the post just above the groove.

Next, I shortened the length of the Nylon Spacer by about 1/8". I couldn't find my file, so I ended up using a 150-grit sandpaper instead and it worked just as well.

Replaced the roller and snapped-in the E-clip. Applied some grease on the roller and along the track, and voila....it works like a charm. My wife couldn't believe that a $275 job (Honda dealer quotation) was done so quickly (about 45-minutes) and so inexpensively ($2.39 including sales tax).

Pioneers like rtw_travel laid out a nice detailed photo procedure, but you took the entire process and shrunk it to almost nothing (dollar-wise and workload-wise).

Once again, many thanks to you and everyone else who've posted great tips and details.
 

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Whoever came up this repair is the king!!! I changed the front roller in less than 30 minutes yesterday. I have a small problem now...maybe some of you have had this happen. The door is closing too far forward....leaving a wider gap at the rear and tight at the front….not by much….. but the rear gap is at least 3/8 of an inch....definitely wider then the other side. Not a super big deal.....the door still closes…..I'm just concerned about water and wind. Anybody know how to adjust the door?
 

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Dear rwv512,

If you're door was closing nicely before, the issue you're having may be due to not re-attaching the roller assembly at the exact same spot on the door. I think that's why people usually outline the roller assembly onto the door to make sure they re-assemble it at the same position.
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Sliding Door Alignment

Try this:

Open the door and mark the bracket with a sharpie or marker. Loosen the bolts that attach the bracket to the door just enough to move it. Move the bracket on the door in the appropriate direction a small amount and snug up the bolts. Check the door operation again and repeat if necessary.

Let us know if this worked.
 

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Thanks a million for the step by step instructions on fixing the power sliding door. I pressed fit the spacer and tried it about 10 times to see if I have to file it and insert the e-clip; so far, it is working normally. Hopefully it won't come out from the post. Even if it happens, it shouldn't take me too long to redo the job. Thanks again!
 

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I think I have the taillight removal figured out, looks like just 2 bolts... (shop manual)

Beyond that and the front bolt on the small panel that covers the slider, is there anything else that holds the side panel on?

I'm going to lowes to pick up the parts tonight and want to do the job tomorrow, but don't want to get stuck with the job half done because there is something I have not thought of.

I did check the shop manual, but there are no specifics I can find on removing that panel that covers the slide rail.
 

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Re: Repair Complete

dcandmc said:
Last night I tackled the door roller repair on the right slider, using the parts obtained at Lowe's pictured in post #3 above. Once I got everything taken apart, sure enough, it was obvious that the rollers were the problem. One of the two was completely gone, and the other one was so shot that it could just be lifted off the post, and probably would have fallen off soon on its own. See the link below for a picture of what I found.

When I took off the trim panel that covers the slide track, I discovered that the bracket that the panel bolts to at the front was no longer attached to the van. It's a spot weld that is supposed to afix the bracket that had failed at some point. The van has 146k miles on it, so I'm not surprised. It shouldn't be a problem, as the trim panel can still be securely attached with the two screws in the back and three plastic fittings along the length of the track that fit into keyways on the back of the panel.

I had a bit of trouble when I unbolted the roller mechanism from the door. I had a floor jack positioned (with a piece of 2x4 and padding) under the back corner of the door, but the door slipped off the jack. If possible, I recommend having a helper to make sure the door is secure and stable during and after the unbolting.
Does one have to loosen the tension on the door cables to get the bracket assy to rotate into the shown in picture orientation?
 

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I had all those problems. I was able to drill a hole in the rail and bolt the tab back on, but I kept running into interference problems.. It can be done, but the bolt has to be very short.

You do not need to loosen the cable, there is enough slack to pull it out.

And my door fell off the jack also. no harm done, but annoying.
 

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Re: Re: Repair Complete

m3clubracer said:
Does one have to loosen the tension on the door cables to get the bracket assy to rotate into the shown in picture orientation?
No; there is no need whatsoever to mess with the motor or cable tension. Once unbolted from the door, the bracket will just hang on the cable as shown.
 

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Re: Re: Re: Repair Complete

dcandmc said:
No; there is no need whatsoever to mess with the motor or cable tension. Once unbolted from the door, the bracket will just hang on the cable as shown.
Thank you. I will try this and hopefully publish the fix today.
 

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Worked perfectly!

Successfully replaced two rollers on passenger side door without any difficulty. Used a floor jack to secure the door - no issues.

Used a small palm sander on the plastic roller to get it small enough to slide the e-clip over, then sprayed some liquid wrench to get it moving freely once placed on the metal shaft on the door hinge.

I wasn't able to readily find the parts in Canada. I contacted the international shipping department for lowes.com (American site) and they were able to put me in touch with an associate in one of their Ontario (Toronto) area stores. Although this store was not in the business of shipping items, because I lived about 18 hours (driving) from Toronto, they agreed to ship it to me. The shipping was about $13 CAD and the parts about $8 (I bought extras to do the other door whenever it fails).

Thanks to everyone for saving me well over $350 at my Honda dealership!
 

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Thanks for this; I repaired the passenger side sliding door this weekend for about $6 and 30 minutes. Would have been a bit cheaper if I didn't drop two e-clips that I couldn't see on the driveway!
 

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dcandmc said:
We've had a problem with both sliders on our '03 EX for a while now. The wife (who is the main driver) finally got fed up and threatened to take the van to the dealer for repairs. Ouch $$$$. So, I got motivated and read through many threads last night. When asked to close, the right door moves in violent jerks, and usually gives the three beeps and then retreats to the open position. Based on what I've read here, it sounds like a busted roller, although I haven't confirmed that yet. I happened to be at Lowe's today, so I picked up the parts mentioned above by 02honda02. Grand total was $2.19, plus tax. See attached photo. If the problem is a busted roller, I will attempt to repair with these parts and report back here. If not, the parts go back to Lowe's for a refund and I will continue to diagnose.

The left door I'm not sure about. It opens and closes fine when commanded by either the dash buttons or the button on the remote, but it rarely reacts to a pull on either the interior or exterior handle. I'm thinking that the handle mechanism itself may have a short or otherwise be defective. Has anyone else had a problem with an EX slider like this?

DC
I have a door similiar to your left door, it doens't react to the door pull, does anybody know the reason for this?
 

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Thank You for the money saving idea. I replaced the roller on my 01 LX last night with parts from Lowes. The biggest challenge was removing the old clip. Entire job took less than 90 min. (includes thorough cleaning & re greasing)and I did not shorten the spacer or use the E clip. I broke two metal clips that are welded to the track. (one in the front for bolt & one in the rear for plastic clip) but the two screws and remaining two clips are holding the track cover good.
 

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My door bracket was w/o a roller for so long that it scrapped the side of the van. I had to replace the entire $55 bracket. Took the prescribed 1.5 hours.

Weenie wheels...just like this weenie transmission.
 

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Awsome post...you saved me $94! The only difference on the '99 is that I needed to drill the center out to 7/32" and then rather than grind it the spacer down, I countersunk it to make room for the e-clip. Thanks again!
 
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