Honda Odyssey Forum banner

Did this help you?

  • Yes

    Votes: 158 83.2%
  • No

    Votes: 5 2.6%
  • Not sure yet

    Votes: 27 14.2%

  • Total voters
    190
121 - 140 of 174 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Tackled this job last week. One of the rollers was completly missing and half the post was shaved away. Decided it would be better to get the whole unit. Rockauto.com sells a replacement for $30. took around 20 minutes to swap the part out. Door closes without any probelms now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
I inspected all of the rollers on my 2001 and found no problems. Lots of bearing grease quieted the sliders. Shortly after, one of the connectors of the door jamb switch failed, breaking away from the plastic. Last night I did an epoxy fix and today it's back on duty...but who knows how long that will last. I have several extra McMaster spacers now for cost+ship.
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Do you have the part name or number? I checked on Rockauto and could not find it. I'd really like to buy a new assembly. I put new rollers on last year and I've got to put new ones back on now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thread bump: Found y'all on the net (1st post) - the part number references 2002-2003 model year Ody's.

Is the part universal for the entire generation?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
You guys are awesome!! That is all :)

fixed mine with this very method in an hr (most of it was sanding the nylon washers down)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
608 Posts
The reason for sanding is to make the washer fit the space on the top of the post. If you drill out the washer to fit the post, you do not have to sand it. You do not drill it all the way through to the larger size, just deep enough to fit the shape of the post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
The washer did need to be sanded down to fit the post. If you do not sand it down (not the OD but the width) it will not allow you to secure the eclip. Drilling through the ID is not needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
I went ahead and ordered the honda part. I wasn't sure about the Doorman part. Is it easy to put the hinge on the doorman one? I figured the honda part lasted 230K, so
OEM may be the safest way to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
just repaired my drivers side sliding door with the OEM honda part. had I known how easy the pin was to remove, I would have bought the Dorman part. Anyways, pretty easy repair,
had no issues lining up the door. Unfortunately, me and plastic retaining clips don't get along well, but no one will notice missing, broken clips.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Door not opening...

I got the drivers side door fixed in 30 minutes...thanks all for the help. However, also decided to replace passenger just because. For some reason this door did not go back together the same. Door will not open once closed...it seems to get stuck as it tries to open. Tried adjusting the hinge on the door up, down, back and forward and can't get it to work properly. It closes / opens in manual mode. What else can I do to the door to fix...help and thanks.:huh::huh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Thank you so much for this. Our 2006 odyssey has had this problem with the passenger sliding door for about a year. My husband fixed it this weekend using your instructions and a trip to Ace Hardware.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Both doordoors bad so I disassembld both to find the nylon cover also missing from the big roller on the bottom of one. The other won't come off for me to measure anyone know the size?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Just wanted to add my thanks to the contributors of this thread. Both of my sliding doors had one missing roller. Interestingly the front one was missing on the driver's side and the rear one was missing on the passenger side, but both doors are rolling smoothly now. I was hoping that this repair would also fix an annoying rattle coming from the mid/rear of the van, but the search for that continues....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I did the same fix yesterday. I got the rollers from McMaster. I did it to the driver side door. Easy fix. It took me less than half an hour. I tried doing the same to the passenger side door. It was done already by the previous owner. Thank you OP.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
In response to the earlier poster who suggested using bearings rather than nylon spacers, I liked this idea, but 16 x 5 is too big (also expensive)--I bought these and they do not fit. I went with a 13 x 4 (common size and only cost CDN $2.85 each) instead. They seem to work fine, although there is a little more room in the track. I would suggest trying a 14 x 5 if available. I live in a small city and there are two bearing supply places, so worth looking it up. You need TWO of these for each door.
Just so that people who aren't familiar know what the measurements are, the 5mm is the diameter of the hole in the bearing (this probably needs to be correct), the 13mm is the diameter across the bearing, and would probably also be OK at 14mm, and 5mm (or 4mm is what I used) is the height (thickness) of the bearing.
One more note--getting those clips off is a pain. I originally thought that they were part of the post. Wire cutters didn't work and I needed to use a little cut-off disc on a dremel-type tool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Thanks so much for this info! I was able to source these parts for $2. :)

Getting the clips off was a real PITA. That is the most time consuming part of the repair. When doing this, be careful to not damage the top of the post that holds the roller on.

Also, I found that they wouldn't slide on easily, and reamed the holes out just a bit with a drill bit of the same size (just wiggled it around a bit in the hole).

Great post, great advice here and a great fix for a common problem.
 
121 - 140 of 174 Posts
Top