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Thank you very much for this information.

I would like to add-

On the 2002 you do NOT have to do ANYTHING to the inside. Simply open the hatch, find the covers for the tail light screws next to the tail light, pop the covers off, take the tail light off. Then you'll find the 2 screws for the cover at the back. Then the bolt at the front. Then the 2 off the door. Door isn't heavy enough to bother with a jack so support it with your foot until you get the 2 bolts off and then slide the door back in so the door is almost "closed". Then find the correct bushings from Lowes- the short ones they have don't remember what size but the first thread should tell you. Modify them in a drill press with a larger diameter bit as they will be a little bit tall. Just drill them out about 1/8" and put the step down. Drive them on with a socket extension and the socket. Clip on the E clips, reassemble and you're good to go.

This job literally takes 5 minutes from start to finish and costs less than $4 for both doors.
 

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Cable on my 03 passenger door ripped. What's the best way to fix
replace the whole mechanism. on this forum there are instructions. some of the plastic is a pain to remove... but you can have it done in about 2-3 hours. check online dealers... i don't think and aftermarket unit is available... and i don't think you can repair/replace the cable.... my take, if the van his high milage... just turn it into a manual door.
 

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replace the whole mechanism. on this forum there are instructions. some of the plastic is a pain to remove... but you can have it done in about 2-3 hours. check online dealers... i don't think and aftermarket unit is available... and i don't think you can repair/replace the cable.... my take, if the van his high milage... just turn it into a manual door.
I don't mind it being a manual door but right now it's basically stuck in the open position
 

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The door gets pulled open and pulled shut. Much like a window regulator. If it's the shut cable that is broke then follow the directions in this post to get the cable off of the rear roller bracket. If it's the open cable that's broken can remember where it connects but it should likely be as easy to remove or just cut with a small set of bolt or cable cutters.
 

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Forgot to mention. ..took the door off last night to see what's happening..I desparately need to replace the rollers mechanism . Once that's changed it Wil slide much better manually .
 

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Not really. This fix lasts you a year tops. I speak from experience. Btw the Dorman aftermarket part for the passenger door works great. Much less expensive than the OEM part.
 

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I just did this to my 2002 EX. I did one side the "proper" way - sanding down the Lowe's nylon and using an eclip...and then spent over an hour trying to adjust the door properly so it would close!
On the other side, I just took the little nylon guys out of the bag, shoved them down on the post (no sanding, no clip) and buttoned it up - VOILA perfection.
This fix is so cheap and quick (I think I could easily do a door in under 10 minutes from start to finish) that I don't care if it only lasts a year. The hassle of opening up all the interior plastic, AND the cost of the replacement part will never beat 10 minutes and under $5.
Thanks all!
First time Odyssey owner and new member Bill in Maine
 

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I'll be using a bearing not a plastic wheel. Plastic is the devil!!!
Or maybe not....
Lost one of the rollers last week, started scraping the pop off panel, thought about going to lowes looked at the time "rush hour" looked at the box in the closet :d replaced the assembly with the new unit I purchased months ago. Had one heck of a time unhooking the first cable, and a similar struggle to get the last one hooked back into the roller assembly.
 

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Sliding Door Fix- 2003 Manual

Hi,

Over the past months I noticed that our passenger side door was starting to make a clicking sound when closing or opening in the rail area. I kinda knew trouble was coming, but a few days ago the passenger side almost stopped in the middle of opening, so I slid it closed, and then started researching the fix. I decided to try to the $5 fix, with new nylon spacers.

The best tip was use a marker to outline the original position of the bracket on the door! Lifesaver! Because we have a 2003, and no power doors (we actually bought the base model specifically because almost everyone we knew had expensive repairs to the power doors!), it seemed pretty easy to do the repair based on the different comments, videos, and photos.

The three toughest parts were finding the parts. Finding the Nylon rollers at Home Depot was tricky, simply because of the way they labeled the parts, where the bag was named differently then the drawer label. I've attached a photo to help others. Next was the 5/32 e-clip. It turns out that Lowes or Home Depot doesn't carry them anymore, nor does Autozone. So, I kept searching and it turns out that PepBoys carries them, way overpriced, but oh well.

The last difficult part for us was filing the nylon spacer to fit. We finally found an approach that worked. I put the center bracket in a vise, then after cutting through the old retaining ring (a total pain) with some cutters, I used the now empty post to hold the new spacer and used a needle-nose pliers under the spacer to bring it the right height. So, now the spacer had a post to hold it, and the pliers kept it just high enough that I could use a flat-file to take off the extra nylon. Much better then using a grinder, sander, or trying to hold the spacer with the vise, pliers, or hands. Nothing like a jig that works!

After filing to fit, we lubed the shaft, put the spacer on, and then the E-Clip. It runs a bit too tight, but I think that time will loosen it up. In fact I know it will.

We did both the driver and passenger doors.

One thing that was interesting is that unlike a lot of folks, our nylon rollers were still in place and working. But, they were either very loose and wobbly, or worn. But they were still there, on the posts and rotating. The new ones had no play, just ran smoothly after we were done, but it reminds you of how close tolerances are, even for something that doesn't seem that critical.

The funny thing is that I found the old nylon ring that once fit on the main roller bearing. Since there doesn't seem a way to replace that nylon, it means the door is now riding on metal to metal contact. This is an interesting point. I noticed that the original design is for the nylon to make the slide both quiet and without the need for lubrication. Now, with metal on metal contact it seems important to have some grease along the tracks. We used some Valvoline, and put grease on all areas, from the top of the door, to the center, and the bottom. Not sure it needed grease on the top and bottom slides, but thought it wouldn't hurt, and it did seem to make the door run smoother and quieter.

My friend took off with the jack, so we used some small buckets and a 2x4 to support the door, when we unbolted the bracket. We did pull the tail light, and also the trim panel over the track. The first repair till we figured out a workflow took over an hour. The drivers door took under 20 minutes.

I'm not sure how long this fix will last, but I think it will be a while. There is no load-bearing stress on the nylon sliders, they seem more to be locator in function to keep the main weight bearing roller bearing on the track in proper alignment. Either way, our dealer quoted us $90 for a replacement bracket, and with labor to install, around $350 per side to repair. An hour or so, plus $10 bucks for the parts, including a new container of grease, is a pretty serious savings. I wish there was a way to replace the nylon ring on the center bearing, but I doubt there is a way. But, hey, now that the e-clip is in place, if the rollers start to wear, just buy a couple of more! The toughest part was filing the spacers and getting the old retainer ring off, but now that is done, replacing a roller can be done in minutes!

One post I saw on YouTube suggested putting some tape around where the door slide is, and I think it's a good idea. It's very easy to nick the paint when handing the roller bracket. We used painter tape.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions, and details. I was pretty stressed going into this, but i took careful notes, printed them out, and all went well. Now... maybe we should all start advertising our "Sliding Door Repair" business. Just pay in decent Bourbon, Scotch, or Beer and save hundreds of bucks over the dealer!


2003 Spacers Home Depot.jpg
 

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I hope it's ok to post my link here, I put pictures and a description of how I replaced my 99 sliding door rollers. Big thanks to 02honda02 for putting this post together.
 

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i just replaced passenger center roller on my 2000 ody with 192,000 on the clock. took me roughly 25-35 min. pop out tail light, open door all the way, remove two rear screws then the one up front. dont take off just yet. closed door then pop off part (so ya dont scratch paint) open about half way. i pulled (open) cable til it stops then clamped it with vice grips (not to tight) then did the same to (close) cable giving enough slack to remove roller.(i used needle nose vice grips) placed 2x4's with folded rags under door then removed cables from rollers. replaced roller i got from pic a part which i paid around $10 plus change. i did use soap stone to mark hinge before taking off. greased rollers (not too much cause will attract dirt) then hit the dash switch and watched it open and close without any problem. then reattacthed metal cover and tail light. good to go. hope this helps out. im sure replacing just the nylon wheels will work as well but i already had part. i have a passenger door actuator problem and passenger slinding door (pull to close then motor takes over) i'll be working on them next week or so. i'll remember to post pics thanks guy's
 

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Capt-Morgan, your actuator problem might be with the switch located by the bottom rail at the back of the opening. The arm (finger) that actuates the switch could have broken off. Both the inside and outside door handles push on a cable that triggers the switch. Your donor van at the pic-a-part should have a replacement. I you can't find the switch, I can post a pic later today.
The bottom roller bracket hides the switch when the door is fully open, have to move the door forward a bit to see it and look from outside looking up as I recall.
 

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Here's the picture I promised. You can view the switch to see if the finger is broken. If you need to, compare it with the other working door. To pull the switch, the door sill needs to be removed, then you'll see the two bolts holding it.
2016-06-09 16.01.55.jpg
 

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Going to do both doors on my 2003 this weekend
 
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