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So I'm sitting here trying to find out EXACTLY how to replace a stator and reading all this chit chat and wondering when you will get to a actual replacement process and your answer in a DIY forum is to take it to a shop. Useless advice
 

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So I'm sitting here trying to find out EXACTLY how to replace a stator and reading all this chit chat and wondering when you will get to a actual replacement process and your answer in a DIY forum is to take it to a shop. Useless advice
It's not that bad - here's an approximate step by step
1. raise the car and remove the passenger side wheel
2. undo all of the clips on the front of the wheel well liner on the passenger side and tuck it back behind the passenger side brake rotor, etc. (getting it out of your way)
3. undo as many of the clips on the undercover as needed to pull it away from under where the compressor is
4. remove the serpentine belt (push the tensioner to relieve pressure, then slide the belt off one of the pulleys, then remove it)
5. using an AC clutch holding tool, hold the compressor clutch still, then use a socket (10mm, iirc) to remove the bolt in the center of the clutch
6. remove the clutch - be careful not to lose the spacer that's between the clutch and the compressor shaft (in the hole the compressor shaft inserts into)
7. unfasten the AC compressor from the engine (4 bolts) - not necessary if you have the right tools, but it really helps to be able to angle it when doing the next steps (access and visibility is pretty poor if you don't)
8. remove the snap ring holding the pulley on the compressor and pull off the pulley (may be on there pretty good)
9. remove the snap ring holding the stator coil to the AC compressor (the snap ring is recessed back in there, so angling the compressor really helps get to it)
10. unplug the connector to the stator coil and remove it from the compressor.

install the new coil on the compressor and the rest of the reassembly is the reverse of the assembly procedure.
Good luck!
 

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I hope this will help me. I also have an 07 Ody. The compressor might come on for a little while then shut off. When I try to turn on again, I hear it try to click on then goes off. Coolant is good, relays are good and fuses are good, do you think I should have the stator checked? I'll need to have someone better with the electrical components look at it. I'm just afraid its in the computer but when I check, no errors pop up so the mechanics at a loss. I'm just trying to find someone with a similar issue that might have a suggestion, thanks. I've never had any other AC probs so no past issues luckily, until now. I'd hate to take it to the dealer if I dodn't have to.
 

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If it's engaging then disengaging, I would check to make sure you have a sufficient refrigerant charge. If the pressure is out of range, the system will shut off so that might be why it's running briefly then turning off.

I am not sure what trying to click means. What I would do is test the relay (look for an open between the power terminals when the signal terminals don't have voltage across them, then apply battery voltage and make sure you hear it click and the resistance between the power terminals drops to nearly zero (well under an ohm). If that is the case, then the relay is fine (might also check it when the relay is hot to make sure it isn't acting up when it's heated) - then, while the relay is out, apply a jumper between the power terminals and make sure you can hear the clutch click closed on the compressor - if it does, then the coil is fine (again - check when it's hot, too) - if it's not clicking, verify that you have battery voltage across the power terminals to the relay.
 

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Well I guess I'm up next. Had a separated condenser fan that I replaced and still no AC. Checked clutch and no go.

First, THANK YOU to those who've posted all the valuable info here!!

Did steps and get 12 V at 1P conx to compressor, but infinite resistance in relay box test for stator, so gotta be stator. At 135K and 11 years I will do clutch as well. Bernardo has clutch for $155 and stator/coil for $69; cheapest I've found and seemingly not available locally from AZ, O'R, etc. Most of the sources mentioned on pages 1-9 (as far as I've gotten studiously) seem no longer good.

Anyone have other recent better sources for these parts?

One last question (for now): compressors run about $250-300, any reason not to consider pirating these items off a new compressor to do the on-car clutch/coil replacement?
 

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Okay, I've completed the first read of this thread and cnn's compressor swap thread - augh, more to consider! ;) and found all the parts online but I guess I cannot edit my post (?).

I found the stator (only, not kit I think) on ebay at $38.50 shipped (Chinese NIP081116S - does this have a thermal fuse?). Online honda parts outlets have the stator/coil kit for about $68-69 (majestic and bernardi within $2 of each other on both this and clutch) and the clutch kit for $154. I can get the Denso compressor on Amazon shipped for $231, so the options seem to be:

1) cheapest, least thorough - stator only at $38.50. Probably fix it but then I'd have an 11yo clutch/compressor at 135k miles. Probably won't last me 'til we sell?

2) clutch + cheap stator only - about $200 shipped

3) Honda clutch and stator kits - $230 shipped

4) Denso compressor - $230 shipped

It seems to me #4 far outweighs #3, and really #2 as well, even if I simply pirate the stator and clutch and stick the compressor on the shelf (or do the full replacement if evidence of leakage exists when I pull the old clutch/stator.


I'm at 135k miles on a 2005 Touring. We would like to keep the van another 4 years or so I think (at least; this is when kids graduate HS). I really would prefer to not open the system as it was cooling fine until it suddenly wasn't (lends credence to the blown thermal fuse theory as well I think), so I don't think I want to do the compressor swap - partly because of the expense but mostly just the extra hassle and the strong recommendations of changing the condenser, drier, ex valve I've seen - and iirc that's conventional wisdom wrt auto AC anyway. Any thoughts appreciated.

BTW, I have purchased the Miller tool ($50 ebay, pricey but I'm finally trying to work smarter) and am getting anxious to get this fixed (100 degrees here in the DFW!).
 

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Yep. I'm in the same boat as you and after spending an hour checking on pricing came to the same conclusions. It seems the price of a clutch and stator are just under what I'd pay for the Denso 471-1630 Compressor with the clutch and stator on there. I too plan to just use the clutch and stator and only replace the compressor (and recharge after the repair) if things are worse in there upon disassembly than expected.

Thanks to everyone for all the great tips. I'm actually looking forward to this repair!
 

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I'm taking this to the Honda Master Tech tomorrow... To clarify, the clutch is not engaging. I don't know what the click I hear is but it's the click you hear when the clutch engages except its not. Pressure is good, relays are good, fuses are good. Mechanic tells me compressor and AC system checks out except I don't know how knowledgable he is. He tried recharging as well. AC, compressor, clutch engages, blows cold air for a while and then disengages. Hope to sort this out without taking it to the dealer.
 

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Add one more to the list. My 2005 LX has been working flawlessly since its final Honda Warranty A/C replacement back in early 2007. On my way home from work, I'm talking the final 6miles the a/c quit.
I suspected the coil/stator as I was not behind anyone to incur a rock hitting the condenser or anything of that nature. Other than this issue, the a/c has been working great. I used to be a HONDA Certified technician and have since joined the military so I just take care of my own vehicles as opposed to working on them professionally.
I'll be ordering the stator today, $80 on Amazon Prime so I should have it in two days. It should be here just in time for the weekend!! The clutch air gap will be double checked upon removal and adjusted as needed. I don't forsee having to change it.

Jose
Mobile, AL
 

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Stator replaced in less than 2 hours and AC works fine. Stator from dealer was more expensive but it was available and its 95 degrees out so the whole job was $250 for the part and labor. I had the guy recharge it just to get it right, not knowing if I overcharged it to begin with but at the end all is well. Thanks for all the knowledge here!
 

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This thread has gone to 17 pages now.

I strongly believe the crux of the matter is the leaking front seal as the root cause.
So if one replaces only the stator/clutch, chances are the problem will be back.
The best long-term solution is a brand-new Denso.
 

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2 hrs!? I'm embarrassed to even say that I spent seemingly all damn day on it. I'm mechanically challenged I guess. Add to that, friggin Amazon cancelled my compressor order (that was to be delivered today) with no notification. Was gonna use the clutch, stator and new wire harness from it (or replace altogether if compressor looked iffy). Thankfully I had already rec'd the (earlier plan) order of a $39 stator from ebay.

I started with double checking the electrics and finally determined for certain that the stator was shorted. This because unfortunately my wiring looked very suspect so I had to remove the ground to pull the stator wire and connectors to examine and test it. It was ok but had some exposure so I had to wrap the exposed portion and tweak the connectors (naturally I misplaced one and so that took a good 20 mins to find). Anyway of course that meant the alternator had to be loosened completely and then it took 45 mins just to finally get the right positioning and screwdriver with enough force that I was somewhat optimistic that I wouldn't strip the phillips head screw. The clutch bolt came right off with an air ratchet and the short alternator bolt threaded into the clutch eased it right off (couldn't pull it). Snap rings weren't too bad (meaning only about an hour spent to remove/replace them) since I got the Miller tool - how in the hell did you guys get those without it!? Pulley req'd a bit of gentle hammer tapping on one side (car front, pulley rear) combined with a small pry bar pivoted on the tensioner bolt to the pulley back.

Thanks to Amazon's fail though, I had to reassemble with the old clutch for now and will replace it very soon as I don't wanna fry another stator. Thankfully doing just the clutch should be relatively easy. The compressor looked pretty good (no noticable leakage anywhere) so I'm hoping that a new stator and clutch will buy us a few years.

Oh, at least I also replaced my wasted rear shocks and rotated my tires during my marathon today too :)

Thanks so much again for all the info presented in this thread. I'd have definitely sent it to the shop and probably been out $1200-1500 for a new compressor, et al without this thread.
 

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Small update: Was able to remove the clutch cover, pulley and stator. Unfortunately, the clutch and pulley didn't fare so well. I've ordered the replacement.
I hope to post pictures of the failed items for reference by tomorrow.

can: I understand your point. However, the DIY will not have access to an A/C machine to recover/charge the a/c system. Replacing the clutch/pulley and stator is a "weekend project" and worth the time spent, IMO.
 

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ALL IS GOOD!!! Received the updated 38900-RGM-505 Clutch Set today and it went on like a breeze. Double checked the gap and it was spot on. I ended up using the original spacer along with two of the thicker ones in the kit. Overall a simple install.

Jose
 

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- No need for the Autozone tool Clutch tool, instead use the 16-inch screwdriver trick (see post #139 above).

- Snap Ring Pliers: see my previous trick, attach the 45-degree tips on only 1 side, allowing the pliers to open much wider.

- Since your AC Clutch does not work, a reading of 80-90 psi (static pressure) is normal for virtually all cars out there. If the AC works as designed, once the AC compressor runs, the low-side pressure is between 30-50 psi.

- I strongly recommend that you replace all 3 relays!
I found standard size screwdriver works of you rest it on the frame member infront and below of the pulley. i had to drill through the inner spindle, and the outer bracket to secure them together with an awl on account of the rubber being separated. I would thank Denso personally for their innovations in making cheaper and less reliable clutch, but sarcasm would probably not translate to the same.
 

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Okay, I've completed the first read of this thread and cnn's compressor swap thread - augh, more to consider! ;) and found all the parts online but I guess I cannot edit my post (?).

I found the stator (only, not kit I think) on ebay at $38.50 shipped (Chinese NIP081116S - does this have a thermal fuse?). Online honda parts outlets have the stator/coil kit for about $68-69 (majestic and bernardi within $2 of each other on both this and clutch) and the clutch kit for $154. I can get the Denso compressor on Amazon shipped for $231, so the options seem to be:

1) cheapest, least thorough - stator only at $38.50. Probably fix it but then I'd have an 11yo clutch/compressor at 135k miles. Probably won't last me 'til we sell?

2) clutch + cheap stator only - about $200 shipped

3) Honda clutch and stator kits - $230 shipped

4) Denso compressor - $230 shipped

It seems to me #4 far outweighs #3, and really #2 as well, even if I simply pirate the stator and clutch and stick the compressor on the shelf (or do the full replacement if evidence of leakage exists when I pull the old clutch/stator.


I'm at 135k miles on a 2005 Touring. We would like to keep the van another 4 years or so I think (at least; this is when kids graduate HS). I really would prefer to not open the system as it was cooling fine until it suddenly wasn't (lends credence to the blown thermal fuse theory as well I think), so I don't think I want to do the compressor swap - partly because of the expense but mostly just the extra hassle and the strong recommendations of changing the condenser, drier, ex valve I've seen - and iirc that's conventional wisdom wrt auto AC anyway. Any thoughts appreciated.

BTW, I have purchased the Miller tool ($50 ebay, pricey but I'm finally trying to work smarter) and am getting anxious to get this fixed (100 degrees here in the DFW!).
Check out ackits.com i got new clutch for about $15 before shipping. beats my first choice of hulking a reman ac compressor from autozone for $250. and of couse my wifes first idea of trusting a "master mechanic" that said the compressor,dryer, and expansion valve all failed/needed to be replaced...
 

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I think I might be looking at a compressor clutch on my '05 Odyssey as well. 160k, never done any A/C maintenance.

Here's what's happening:

- Racket from underhood -- this has been going on longer than the A/C has
- Measuring high-side, I get ~150lb of pressure with the A/C off.
- Engage A/C, high side slowly trickles down to ~50lb. Rev engine, it rises to over 100lb, then drops again.
- Around town, blows ambient while moving, maybe slightly above ambient while idling.
- On highway, blows slightly cooler than ambient.

More info:
We heard the rattle that started/stopped with the A/C for months before now.
We recently took a trip to Glacier National Park and went down some fast dirt roads, over some bone-shattering washboard. The symptom of not blowing cold occasionally started after that, and has just gotten progressively worse. Did I beat a failing clutch to death on those dirt roads?

Bonus question:
If I replace the A/C clutch now and it fixes the issue, am I still going to be looking at replacing the whole compressor in a year or two? How long do these compressors last?
 

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I have a 2005 Odyssey and looking for the AC clutch on ackits.com, but I only could only find the coil. Does anyone know the part number for the clutch on that site?
 

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cnn, I've got 12 v hot to relay bottom slot. However, with key in position II a/c on i get nothing on top right relay slot. What would be the next step, what fuse/control gives it power with ignition on? Oh, 07 no navi.
 
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