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Hello, I've seen variations on this mentioned a few places. I have a 06 Honda Odyssey with 209K miles on it. A few months ago my side passenger door started having the alarm go off intermittently. Sometimes it did and sometimes it didn't. It would always stay going off or stay on until we turned the car on and drove it around for a while and then when we would get back in sometimes it was still triggering the alarm and other times it magically wasn't. It made it a bit hard to troubleshoot. Now the door won't work intermittently having the same behavior. When the door doesn't work the battery seems to drain. I don't think it is the other way around after watching it for a while. If the door doesn't work the battery lasts about 2 days without being driven.

I have tried the fuse pulls, replaced the actuator, battery cable pull, pulled the door apart to see if anything seemed loose, I don't have an error code. These forums have saved me a few times, but this is my first post. Thanks for any help and thanks for all the help over the past few years!
 

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So, what you describe is very common and posted on this forum almost everyday. There were 2 threads about this same issue today. I think you have a faulty rear latch module. It causes door operability issues, random alarms, and a 0.4 amp parasitic drain on battery. A new part costs about $200. Some people have been able to repair the part. Search just a few threads past this one and you will learn more.
 

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Thanks I will dig into those!
So, what you describe is very common and posted on this forum almost everyday. There were 2 threads about this same issue today. I think you have a faulty rear latch module. It causes door operability issues, random alarms, and a 0.4 amp parasitic drain on battery. A new part costs about $200. Some people have been able to repair the part. Search just a few threads past this one and you will learn more.
 

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My passenger sliding door started to act up 6 months ago. I watched the youtube videos on fixing the actual switch instead of replacing the $200 part.I bought the switch on Amazon and planned on removing the module and replacing the bad switch. It's been 6 months and the problem just went away completely. I expect it to resurface at some point but crazy how it just disappeared. I didn't have any battery drain from it however.
 

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I'm going to look into this too, for our 2006 Touring. We have had intermittent door alarm issues the past 2 winters, seems to only happen when it's really cold (i.e. under 35 deg F, this is Michigan). But the doors always seemed to latch and operate properly, just the tone alarm would sometimes go off, but the dash wouldn't indicate an open door. The doors function properly when used manually, however sometimes they get frozen shut and that's a whole 'nother issue.

But just two weeks ago, the battery drained out of nowhere (new battery, pos batt cable, and alternator just two months ago). I have traced the parasitic draw to the magical No. 7 fuse in the drivers fuse panel (7.5 A). It was showing somewhere around 520 mA draw.... not good. Unfortunately pulling the fuse also kills:

  • GPS/NAV (whole screen and clock)
  • both power sliding doors
  • power tailgate
  • power door locks
  • dome lights on the door switch setting (they still work when turned to ON)
Too much stuff on this circuit due to the nifty computer. We could live without the power doors but there's too much tied to this one problem that makes using the van with kids difficult, so I need to see about fixing it.

The other problem that started right after this is the driver's power sliding door does not operate at all. I've tried to reset/re-home, visually checked what I can, checked the fuel filler door switches, and checked the parasitic draw against the power slider dash switch - no avail on the battery draw - so seems have to tear into the door. When you close the door manually, it latches really tight (the door panel pulls in tighter than the main rear body), and then a few seconds later it releases to make the door flush with the body.

I have the Honda service manual and it first says to check the codes of course with the magical HDS, well my el cheapo scanner comes up empty so I'll try with my Autoenginuity program but if I can pull the door panel and look at the Rear Latch Assembly , sounds like a good place to start I guess.
 

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Does turning off the interior lights stop the parasitic draw? It did on my '99 until I fixed the issue causing the door not to close properly. Not sure if it applies to 3rd gen.
There is this post in the thread "Slide Door" idiot light is on showing how to retrieve the code(s) for the sliding doors. It is possible to repair the rear switch assembly that frequently causes these issues with the sliding door.
With my '99, the center roller assembly had a stiff hinge. Once I freed it up and lubed it my problems went away and I had light at night!
 

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Nope, it's not the dome lights. We usually have them off anyways. First thing I did when I bought this van in 2015 was replace all the interior lights with LEDs, but regardless -- it's not the draw. Something was clearly wrong with the power door, and those things can drain juice because there are so many electro-mechanical parts and sensors and switches.

From another thread on here with the same issue, I believe I've fixed it.... just by removing the bolt for the rear door latch (the bolt closest to the body, but I did both top bolts for giggles), and spraying Silicone spray in there. Put the bolts back in. Opened/shut the door manually a few times. Then again with garage door lube just because I had it lying around close by. The door works fine now! Both manually and powered. When powered, it doesn't pull in too tight and then releases 2 sec later like before. It closes more like the other door now. (I cleaned and lubed that one, too)

The mV draw through the No. 7 fuse went from 6.2 mV down to 2.3, so I believe that is the majority of the issue there. There's so much else on this circuit this is probably not a big deal, but I'll repeat the current draw test later this week. For now I'm telling the marital unit to use the thing normally and go from there.
 

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Well I replaced the latch assembly on Saturday morning. I did the whole assembly, I didn't try to single switch replacement because of time, and so far everything is working perfectly. I just wanted to update everyone. Thanks for the discussion. This has always been a great community.
 
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