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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched pretty extensively and can't find anything directly related to this.

Bought the van 3 weeks ago and had only used the FOB. Went to a locksmith today to have an extra key made/progammed. In the process he discovered the original key with the van won't open the door. It turns the ignition just fine, but the key won't budge when we put it in the lock itself. We sprayed inside the lock to loosen any "junk" that had collected.

If this doesn't work, can someone point me in the direction of how to disassemble the door handle in order to get access to the lock? We noticed a plastic plug on the end of the door, removed it, and saw a screw. Too scared to remove it without knowing what we were getting into.

Thanks,
Phil
 

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To remove the front door panel, you need to remove the switch control panel. This part is tricky as you don't have a lot of space to put a flat head under to pry it up. It's held in by plastic clips. Start with the bottom edge of the grab handle area and work it's way up. Then remove one phillips screw that's behind the switch panel.

Next remove one phillips screw under the grab handle. There is another phillips screw behind the chrome door pull release handle. To get to this one, use a small flat head and pop open the plastic cover behind the handle. After all 3 screws are out, then use your hand and carefully pull off the mirror cover (held in by 2 clips).

Now you can begin pulling on the bottom edge of the panel to release the clips and work your way around to the side clips. Once all the clips released, then push the panel upwards to get it off the window edge. If you need to completely remove the entire panel, then remove the mechanism holding the door pull release handle and also disconnect the light at the bottom.

Some pics to help you.











 

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Does it work in the glove box or the in-floor storage door?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ody2oddy- Thanks for the details on how to remove the door panel. I'm assuming the lock mechanism can be removed?

cntrtwnltd- We hadn't thought about trying it on the glove box/floor panel. I'll do that when I get a chance today and report back with what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I tried the key in the glove box and it worked just fine.

I'm going to contact the lock smith and use the directions from above to see if we can figure out what the problem is.

In the meantime, I just hope the battery doesn't die in the FOB at a bad time!!!
 

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Maybe some kids insert a foreign object in there.

1. Try to see if you can fish it (the foreign object) out with a pick tool.

2. Or remove the cylinder lock for an exam and surgery.
Worst case scenario: new cylinder lock from dealer.

PN is 72185-SHJ-A01 $40 at dealer, of course you need VIN number to match the key.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

Search under "Front Door Locks - Outer Handle", Item #36 is 72185-SHJ-A01.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well folks, I'm finally reporting back on this. The locksmith I'm working with had some trouble coming up with the proper parts that we thought we would need, but we finally tackled the problem and won.

Long story in a nutshell: the lock cylinder wasn't working because one of the wafers was stuck on the cylinder. Once we were able to get the actual cylinder out of the door handle, he saw the problem immediately.

Some of the factory grease had hardened (almost like candle wax) and was keeping one of the wafers from being able to move freely. We cleaned up the cylinder and it worked perfectly.

It was too tight and dark inside the door to take pics, but I'll throw out some tips that might help anyone in the same position. The hardest part of this job was getting the lock assembly free from the door handle.
1. Once the door panel was removed, I loosened the bolt that holds the assembly in place, disconnected the wire that attaches to the back of the cylinder, and loosened the screw that secures the assembly inside the door.(this is accessible by pulling the black plug on the end of the door and using a phillips to remove the screw. The helms manual says the screw will stay in place when it is loosened, but I found this to be inaccurate, so a telescoping magnet is nice to have handy!!)

2. Once this was done, I disconnected the two rods that are connected to the assembly. The plastic pieces flip over and the rods pull out.

3. Loosen, but don't take out the bolt that attaches to the front of the outer handle. You only need a little movement, not much.

4. It is great if you can have an extra set of hands. Have someone gently pull out on the outer handle assembly...you don't need much. If you have a pen light, you will see that the bottom of the outer door assembly has a 45 degree angle and then a plastic tab. The outer handle needs to be pulled out far enough that you can move the lock assembly towards the back of the door and past the 45 degree angle. If the door handle assembly isn't pulled out far enough, the lock assembly catches on the angle and it can't move freely.

5. With the door lock assembly removed from the door, we were able to access the lock cylinder. You can remove it by taking the retaining clip off. When it was cleaned up properly, the wafers moved freely when the key was inserted into the lock cylinder. The internal parts(wafers) can't be accessed with cleaner/lubricant by spraying through the key hole, so the cylinder has to be removed in order to fix this particular problem.

Installation is in the reverse order.

I have encoutered one problem since this was done. I can unlock the doors with my FOB, but I can't lock the doors with the FOB. I'm guessing I just need to have the locksmith reprogram the FOB, but I don't know for sure.

Thanks again to those of you have gave suggestions. I hope this is of help to anyone with a similar problem.

Phil
 

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periodic lubrication.?

In light of this, and for other ody users, would it be advisable to periodically operate the lock with key, and lubricate properly (with?) ?
 

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In light of this, and for other ody users, would it be advisable to periodically operate the lock with key, and lubricate properly (with?) ?
YES!

In the BMW forums (especially the E39 series cars), people find out the hard way: they use their FOB remote for 10 years without ever opening the door via the key. With time/winter/salt corrosion etc.....10 years later, gunk builds up inside the door lock cylinder.

Guess what, when the battery goes dead (yes battery can go dead), the BMW owners could not open their door manually!

So the bottom line is that: the FOB remote has made us (myself included) lazy.

So twice a year, I lubed all my car locks (doors + ignition) with "liquid graphite", which costs a few bucks at autoparts store. And yes, once in a while, stop being lazy and give the door locks a mechanical workout LOL.
 
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