[PJO]

New to this site...sorry if this topic has been beat into the ground.

I'm trying to change the serpentine belt, but I can't find a manual showing pics/diagrams of how best to do this. What direction does the tension pulley go when pressure is applied? Up, down, etc. Any special tools required? I'm having a little trouble getting a wrench in there.

Am I suppose to use the torque head hole on the pulley itself, or the nut that is just off to the side of the pulley?

Clearly I am a novice, so thanks in advance for the help.

PJ

 

[cnn]

Here you go:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/77121-power-steering-pump-replacement-diy.html


http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/85488-serp-belt-tensioner-pulley-help.html

You can use the trick I posted in threads #13, 14, 15 above.
This trick uses the Sears 14&15mm wrench combo and 1/2" breaker bar.

Or better yet: buy the Harbor Freight tool #66344 for $15: this tool is worth every penny, highly recommended!
Serpentine Belt Tool Kit

 

[DrD]

you push the top pulley away from you to take the tension off the belt (for putting it on, get it around everything except the power steering pump, then push the tensioner away from you (towards the van) slip the belt over the PS pump, then gently release the tension) You can do it with a 14mm socket and a breaker bar, or get a serpentine belt tool (basically the same thing, but lower profile) - also, it helps if you remove the PS resevoir and put the lines out of the way to get yourself some space.

edit - just noticed the serp belt tools were mentioned above - if you have the time, and they are longer than whatever breaker bar or socket wrench you have, I'd get the tool.

 

[PJO]

Thanks a ton to both of you for your replies! I just bought this van last week, and we are hopeful it was money well spent.

I may try to move the ps reservoir as you suggested.

 

[cnn]

Thanks a ton to both of you for your replies! I just bought this van last week, and we are hopeful it was money well spent.

I may try to move the ps reservoir as you suggested.

Better yet, REPLACE the PS Reservoir, it is cheap at $13! See this:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/77121-power-steering-pump-replacement-diy.html

 

[PJO]

CNN-

Just now starting to have the problem with the psp whining. It was just like described in the TSB: 30 minutes or longer run time in temps between 30?-40? degrees.

My question: Where did you find the ps reservoir for $13? O'reilly's and napa can't get the reservoir seperate from the pump. I don't have access to many parts stores, as I'm in a town of 3000 and roughly an hour from any "bigger" communities.

Thanks,
Phil

 

[Coopers_Dad]

My question: Where did you find the ps reservoir for $13?

Thanks,
Phil

You can get it directly from Honda for that price. Don't forget to get a cap as the old one is a different size.

 

[PJO]

Thanks a bunch!!

Do you recommend using honda's fluid when I flush the system?

 

[cnn]

You are in Kansas, so you can either buy the reservoir:
a- Local dealer closest to you.
b- Online:
Honda Automotive Parts

It is funny that "Coopers_Dad" said:
"You can get it directly from Honda for that price. Don't forget to get a cap as the old one is a different size."

After I replaced the PS reservoir, I noticed the factory red cap fits somewhat loosely (not snug as in the factory reservoir). I called the local dealer and they say the cap should be the same size.

Anyway, I will pick up a new PS Reservoir cap today for $1.50 and report back. Interesting issue!

PS: For now use Honda PS Fluid. Although many people have used Dexron-III fluid in Accord, Ody w/o issues (search internet and you will see).

 

[Dirkdaddy]

CNN-

Just now starting to have the problem with the psp whining. It was just like described in the TSB: 30 minutes or longer run time in temps between 30?-40? degrees.

My question: Where did you find the ps reservoir for $13? O'reilly's and napa can't get the reservoir seperate from the pump. I don't have access to many parts stores, as I'm in a town of 3000 and roughly an hour from any "bigger" communities.

Thanks,
Phil

On my '06 I got a bad moan sound, replaced tank, fluid, pump and still moans. Drove it like that after replacing an idler pulley, front altenator bearing searching for moan (both items were by sound needing replacement compared to neighbor's same van). Still moaned. Yesterday I put on a lift and looked and saw fluid on the oil pan, found it came from front end of engine, traced it to the return hose plastic fitting with an o-ring. Suction is letting air in. Have not repaired yet, but FYI. I may just carefully put some RTV on outside of o-ring fitting and assemble, let cure.

 

[cnn]

...Yesterday I put on a lift and looked and saw fluid on the oil pan, found it came from front end of engine, traced it to the return hose plastic fitting with an o-ring. Suction is letting air in...

Could you take a picture of EXACTLY what you mean and post it?
Thanks!

 

[PJO]

CNN-

I just used your write up for changing the reservoir. Thanks much! I found that as I was "manning up" to turn the steering wheel lock to lock without running the engine that fluid was still pumping. I only had 5 qts., so I don't think I got a "complete" flush, but the new fluid definitely looked "cleaner" than the old.

I was reading on a different post where you had used a extension magnet on a filter that is suppose to be in the reservoir. Upon inspection, after removing the old reservoir, I didn't/couldn't see any kind of screen/filter. Does this mean somebody took it out? Also, and I realize this shows my lack of knowledge, but does bleeding the system of air simply require going lock to lock?

Thanks,
Phil

 

[cnn]

Does this mean somebody took it out? Also, and I realize this shows my lack of knowledge, but does bleeding the system of air simply require going lock to lock?

Thanks,
Phil

The PS Reservoir definitely has a fine mesh at the bottom. Use a pencil to probe the bottom of the old PS Reservoir and you will see it.
I doubt if anyone removed the fine mesh.

Re: PS bleeding in 99% of cars out there. The procedure is very generic: run engine, and turn steering wheel completely (R) and (L) a few times, this will expel any air in the Steering Rack back to the PS Reservoir.

 

[PJO]

Thanks.

 

[Dirkdaddy]

Instead of a tool for the belt - this is on the EXL that has the hydraulic tensioner - I have used a 1/2" breaker bar, AND a big box end wrench stuck on the end for additional leverage! I'm not a whimp but its a bit of a push and leverage helps. Also, be prepared to curse the living daylights out of packaging genius's at Honda who put the 1. hood prop 2. AC lines right in the front "work zone slot" of the engine. Add in the PS lines and its much more awkward than it needs to be.

CNN, I have been searching for a proper tool to remove the fitting I mentioned and finally found one that fits w/o removing the whole pump or even the pulley & belt. I'll post a picture as its worth lots of words. I have a friend who has a set of these and dang they are very handy, going to lose some $ and buy a set.

 

[cnn]

...CNN, I have been searching for a proper tool to remove the fitting I mentioned and finally found one that fits w/o removing the whole pump or even the pulley & belt. I'll post a picture as its worth lots of words. I have a friend who has a set of these and dang they are very handy, going to lose some $ and buy a set.

I already mentioned the serpentine tool above:
Serpentine Belt Tool Kit

 

[Dirkdaddy]

CNN - re-read before posting LOL The tool is for the PS fitting, not the belt. Yea, thanks for posting picture I was wondering what it looked like.

The PS thing in question is a 10mm bolt below the plastic fitting on the return line, just after the return hose ends going into the pump. Basically, the hose does not attach to the pump but to a removable fitting that looks like the pump. Where it attaches to the pump, I have a fluid leak. Funny thing is, I replaced the pump and the O ring looked good. Oh well. I think since fluid can get out, air can get in, and that is causing the noise. The 10mm is below the fitting and tricky to get to, I've tried sockets, offset wrenches, everything I had. Finally tried a very slick set of "gear wrench sockets" that pop into the gear-wrench (or in this case Craftsman) and make a very low profile ratchet wrench. THAT fits and the fine teeth make it possible to get it loose. But it started raining today and I ran out of time - but it did fit!

Here is what I'm talking about as far as tools, you can seemingly only buy each or with the wrenche$ - but these are SWEET. I work with a buddy's car collection and he has the full set - dang, I use these wrenches first choice, then and only then, something else if there's exceptionally high torque or they don't fit, etc They have a silky feel, very fine ratchets, work very smoothly. Only gripe...the lever requires the gear to move a bit to be able to switch directions, you can't do it one-handed before you put on a fastener. but you learn to just flick it after getting it on.

Craftsman Wrench Sockets

 

[cnn]

...The PS thing in question is a 10mm bolt below the plastic fitting on the return line, just after the return hose ends going into the pump. Basically, the hose does not attach to the pump but to a removable fitting that looks like the pump...

Could you post a picture of exactly what you are talking about?

 

[JamesInLV]

Anybody what the suggested service interval is for the serpentine belt? I've got an '07 with ~53k miles. Most have gone 60k+ in my cars before anybody, dealer service or otherwise, said anything about it in my vehicles.

 

[maxud]

Anybody what the suggested service interval is for the serpentine belt? I've got an '07 with ~53k miles. Most have gone 60k+ in my cars before anybody, dealer service or otherwise, said anything about it in my vehicles.

While I can't answer your question directly, the belt is easy to inspect and see if it has any issues, like cracking, separating or chafing.
Beyond that, I would recommend replacing it as part of Timing belt job, every 105k miles.

My 05 van has nearly 90k miles and recent inspection showed no issues.
Max