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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got an '07 Odyssey EX and the A/C is plenty cold, but it doesn't blow as much air as it should. I can turn the blower up and down and it does adjust how much air comes out the vents, but on high it's only about as much air as it should with the air about '2-3 clicks on' if that makes any sense.

I'm guessing it's the blower, but it's been working this way for 3 months and it does blow more/less air depending on the setting so it seems weird that it would be bad. I suppose there could also be some sort of blockage as well, but don't really know how or where to check either. Can someone give me an idea where to start? Thanks all.
 

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- Check fuse 30 (10A) inside the drivers under dash fuse box.

- A blower motor transistor or resistor is often to blame when the front fan quits.
- First, let's make sure the blower works, left side of the blower motor in the blower case.

- Verify that when the Blue/Black wire is jumped to the Black wire, the blower motor should run on high speed. If not, the blower is bad. Blue/Yellow wire with a voltmeter. Turn the ignition off and the climate control off, then start the vehicle, turn on the climate control blower, and see if there is voltage for a few seconds on the Blue/Yellow wire. If there is voltage and the blower motor did not work, the power transistor is faulty. The reason the voltage may only last a few seconds is that as soon as the climate control head sets the code "C", it may stop trying to operate the blower motor.

- Also remove the Blue/Yellow wire from the connector and leave the power transistor connected, then using an old style bulb test light, apply voltage to the terminal of the blower power transistor that the Blue/Yellow wire was connected to. The power transistor should turn on the blower motor. If it does not, the blower power transistor is faulty.

- The OE part number is 79330-SDG-W41.



 

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Have you checked the cabin air filter behind the glove box and ensured it is not restricting flow? Easy to check. Remove it and see if things improve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try to look at it tomorrow. I've seen those other threads, but didn't know if it would be the same thing since their blower didn't work at all, and mine at least works at about 30-40% strength I would guess. I suppose I should also add that when the fan is on high - it actually sounds as it should when it's on high. Thanks again - I'll update the thread after I get a chance to look.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try to look at it tomorrow. I've seen those other threads, but didn't know if it would be the same thing since their blower didn't work at all, and mine at least works at about 30-40% strength I would guess. I suppose I should also add that when the fan is on high - it actually sounds as it should when it's on high. Thanks again - I'll update the thread after I get a chance to look.
If you search the internet, this is rather common in cars with 8-12 years old.
Toyota Camry has this issue, BMW has this issue etc.

Also the resistor can fail in different ways:
- Not working at all.
- Fan at not working Low speed; but OK at high-speed only
- Fan at not working at High speed; but OK at low-speed only

etc. etc.

If you have a similar Ody as a donor car and after the swap, your fan works fine then this is a good diagnostic trick.

Please update.
 

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No cold air coming from my 2005 touring A/C. 80K miles. I went to a local garage and they checked the compressor and the compressor is not frozen. Can be turned manually but not responding to the A/C on/off switch.

Belts are good. No leaks. Power is coming up to the compressor.

So, they said the fault is with the condenser and changed the condenser and put new refrigerants. Still no cold air is coming. The compressor is not triggering due to some reason. I am not sure whether the problem is with the compressor or with any other part. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Belts are good. No leaks. Power is coming up to the compressor.

So, they said the fault is with the condenser and changed the condenser and put new refrigerants.
Wow they just assumed the condenser must be leaking with out even testing it? Did they hook up gauges to it?

Still no cold air is coming. The compressor is not triggering due to some reason. I am not sure whether the problem is with the compressor or with any other part. Any help is greatly appreciated.
There are several things that cause the compressor clutch not to engauge. The low pressure switch is what I would have checked first. If you have over 25psi on the low pressure side then the switch should close and enable the clutch to engauge. The high pressure switch is a similar operation where if the pressure gets too high the switch will open disengauging the compressor clutch.

They should have checked the basics first. Also how were they able to refill the system when the compressor would not turn on?
 

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dayasarath,
One thing you might try is measuring the resistance of the clutch coil. Disconnect the power connector and attach a DMM across the terminals to read resistance. It should only be a few ohms. If it is very high or close to ininite then it is open and your clutch coil is bad.


You can also test the relay that drives the clutch. Swap it with another relay and see if the clutch engauges again. Another test you could do is jump the contacts in the relay base to apply 12V to the coil. I would only try that with the engine off and just listen/watch for the clutch to engauge.
 

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Thanks Blake
Yes the mechanic told me the problem is with the low pressure switch and it is attached to the condenser. That is why they changed the whole condenser.

As your second suggestion I am trying to locate the clutch coil and the relay that drives the coil. I'll let you know what happened when I locate the coil and the relay.
 
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