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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
07 touring, Pass side door.

I have searched and not clearly found a thread with my issue...Actually using the search got me to this point.

Original Problem. Occasional Door sticking on pass side.. We would hear the occasional grinding noise followed by beeps. 80% of the time an additional push of button would open, 100% of the time after second push or handle pull door would open.

So after reading all of the threads I tried all reset/reohm procedures, Problem still persisted although it seemed to be less>>Possibly placebo effect.

I read some more and saw where the latch Actuator could be a cause of this issue. I was able to easily replace that last night. then reohmed the doors..(Old actuator did have some dead zone in the gearing) definately was part of problem and possibly all of it.

Since replacement of actuator the problem is GONE. I checked all wheels and all were good while door was apart.


***However this is where Im at. I noticed drivers side door is silent when opening... it makes no noise... PASS SIde where I just replace actuator still kind of POPPED if you will when opening. Nothing like before but still not silent as other side... So I isolated the sound to the REAR latch mechanism... the rear latch seems to create the POP if you will, almost like latch is not fully opened or has too much preload? Its not handing the door up but my issue is my replacement of actuator caused the INverse problem of what I attempted to fix.. When door was sticking the front would not always unlatch...Now the front unlatched immediately and the rear seems latent and preloaded...

My question is I could not see how to Adjust the rear latch. The FSM is very iffy about the adjustment. It basically says remoce latch and measure distance between cable ends and bracket.. is there as easier way to adjust or some instructions on how to get to that latch? I see 3 bolts, but can i jjust remove and pull through door? or must I remove Window Etc?? Since the door works I hesitate to tear to far into this but would rather be proactive about maintaining the door versus waiting for it to break and then fixing it(Which usually happens when its _40 outside). LOL'
 

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Had the same thing on my '07 EXL a couple months ago. The dealer was worthless. I took it to a Honda Tec friend & he showed me how the roller was going bad. Tilt your head back from the inside & look at the roller when it moves compared to the other side. The problem should be obvious. It's not a difficult fix if you know how to take the panels off. He only charged me $160 to change it. The dealer quoted over $600. Find a Honda tech. in your area that's willing to work on the side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Which roller?? I looked at Upper which seemed MONEY, MID which seemed Fine**Mid is harder to visually inspect without removal.*** and lower which seemed OK. It also moved freely when power is turned off.. I would expect a roller issue to be easily identified when power is off.. But maybe Im catching it at the early stages. ??:huh:
 

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The Mid. If you lean forward & tilt your head around you can see it while the door moves. Compared to the other side the difference was clear. My experience only but the symptoms were the same as you described.
 
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