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Buy a scanner or take to autozone

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Discussion Starter #1
Hello there!!!!
Hope you can help. Bought an 09 honda odyssey, had multiple oil leaks so bought an under 60,000 mile japan direct engine and trans combo, installed them. Installed 3 new cats and new steering rack that was leaking. IT ACCELERATES SUPER SLOW OUT OF A DEAD STOP, ESPECIALLY UP HILL. I've read the other posts. Some more drastic symptoms but the same symptoms. Multiple suggestions. Any in particular that you know I SHOULD do? I'll go to auto zone tomorrow and ask them read codes i guess... i dont have a scanner. any advice is welcomed thank you so much.
 

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Given that you did all that work and spent all that money, I would recommend you invest in a bidirectional code scanner such as the Foxwell NT510. They cost about $170 on Amazon. Make sure you get the Honda version.
 

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Given that you did all that work and spent all that money, I would recommend you invest in a bidirectional code scanner such as the Foxwell NT510. They cost about $170 on Amazon. Make sure you get the Honda version.
On sale now at Foxwell for $129:

 

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Can you get the van up to 80 or 90 on the highway? What is highway mpg?

Funny question, but is the trans shifting? Have you tried shifting manually?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can you get the van up to 80 or 90 on the highway? What is highway mpg?

Funny question, but is the trans shifting? Have you tried shifting manually?
Thank you for responding! Yes I can get the van up to high speeds on highway but I'm not sure of the highway mpg. It does seem like I'm loosing more gas than I should bc I'm having to floor it to get it to go out of a dead stop. It certainly feels like the transmission is shifting but I do not know how to shift manually with this van lol put it down in 1 then 2 then Drive? I have done that if that's what you mean, and it didnt help.
 

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BTW, once you have your Foxwell code scanner with the Honda software, you can buy and download the software for other vehicle manufacturers. Costs about $70 each. I think the Foxwell can store up to 5 differnet vehicle manufacturers.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's awesome. Sounds like a great investment. I also have an 01 Silverado so I'm sure I'll be needing it again soon. I read in one of the other threads that it happens to them in the extreme heat and it is super hot here in Soith Carolina. Over 90 each day I've had the van. Could exssesive heat be causing this symptom?
 

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So, my first question...Why did you install 3 new cats, and what brand did you install? Is there more to the story here? Your symptom can be caused by lots of different things. A plugged exhaust will do this. If the cats were burned up, are you sure you don't also have a blocked muffler or resonator further down the line? Second, is lack of fuel. To check this you'll need a scan tool so we'll need to wait until you receive it before going any further.

Second question, do you have the check engine light on? If so, that may shed some light when you get your tool and can read codes.
 
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So, my first question...Why did you install 3 new cats, and what brand did you install? Is there more to the story here? Your symptom can be caused by lots of different things. A plugged exhaust will do this. If the cats were burned up, are you sure you don't also have a blocked muffler or resonator further down the line? Second, is lack of fuel. To check this you'll need a scan tool so we'll need to wait until you receive it before going any further.

Second question, do you have the check engine light on? If so, that may shed some light when you get your tool and can read codes.
LOL there is sooo much more to the story, yes! When we first bought the van it had an oil leak in gasket covers so we fixed it but it was still smoking so we thought the cats had oil in them from it burning oil sooo we hollowed them out like idiots to see if that was the problem and it wasn't... we found another oil leak in the valve covers and that's when we determined it had probably overheated in the past and we better sell it now or buy new engine and we decided on new engine and we got a set with a new trans so we went ahead and replaced both and then had to buy 3 new cats bc we messed them up. Idk what brand, husband bought them but he did say he wished he bought more expensive ones that came with heat guards bc these didnt and we had to wrap in that heat guard tape.... could crappy cats be our problem? Today, I drove the van bc it was only 85 degrees and it did sooooo much better. Maybe it's in my head but could the heat be messing with a sensor in some way? I cannot wait for our tool to arrive!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So, my first question...Why did you install 3 new cats, and what brand did you install? Is there more to the story here? Your symptom can be caused by lots of different things. A plugged exhaust will do this. If the cats were burned up, are you sure you don't also have a blocked muffler or resonator further down the line? Second, is lack of fuel. To check this you'll need a scan tool so we'll need to wait until you receive it before going any further.

Second question, do you have the check engine light on? If so, that may shed some light when you get your tool and can read codes.
Oh, also, NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT and I know it works bc it came on in the past with original motor.
 

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A severe lack of power, with no check engine light, could definitely be plugged exhaust. Going with aftermarket catalytic converters is not a reliable repair. If they work at first, they usually fail within a year. The best way to test something like this is to do a backpressure test of the exhaust. You need some way to put a pressure gauge (most vacuum gauges will show a bit of pressure) into the exhaust. The easiest way is to use the O2 sensor hole and fashion up an adapter to be able to hook the gauge up to it. You shouldn't have anything more than 1 psi of backpressure in the exhaust and even that would be a little high.

To check for adequate fuel delivery during wide open throttle you can look at the oxygen sensor data on the scan tool. This gets a bit technical so if it's beyond capabilities you should be able to take it in somewhere and have it diagnosed.
 

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So you replaced the original engine because you couldn't find and fix some oil leaks?? How many miles were on the original engine? Did it burn any oil? How did it run?

The VCM control valves are known to leak on this engine and can appear to be a valve cover gasket. I know its water over the dam now and I admire your tenacity in replacing the engine and numerous other parts, but at some point before you got in too deep did you consider talking to a decent Honda shop for an educated opinion?
 

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..so bought an under 60,000 mile japan direct engine and trans combo,
Was that a J35A6 or J35A7 JDM motor, or a 2009 JDM Odyssey motor? :unsure:
In Japan the RB3 Odyssey had a 2.4L K24A8 with a CVT Automatic transmission! Totally different from your RL3.
 

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Did you get the Japanese PCM/engine computer with the engine/transmission? Could be that that the engine computer is at fault here?

A Japanese engine with an American PCM could possibly cause the symptoms you experience. Not all A35 engines are the same. They may not have the same ignition and valve timing or other features. Perhaps, a sensor is different? Could it be that your engine is running in open loop mode, or "limp" mode, because of this?

On a Scangauge II, this shows as "Open Loop", (a standby, fixed program), as opposed to "Closed Loop", which means the engine computer immediately responds to changing engine operating parameters.

For me, your issue could be related to the programming of your PCM, or possibly an input (sensor) to the PCM that is calibrated differently. (Example - maybe the temperature sensor is calibrated in degrees C instead of degrees F)? If this is the case, you may not throw a code for this problem. If so, Honda or a good auto electronics shop might be able to reprogram your PCM.

I had a 2007 VW GTI that developed electric steering issues. The daughterboard, which plugged into the steering computer motherboard, had failed. Another problem came to light when I couldn't buy an exact replacement daughterboard from VW. Then I found out the same issue applied to the steering computer motherboard - not available here in the US. Turns out the vehicle was built with an Austrian steering computer and daughterboard. Apparently VW ran out of the American version during production and substituted Austrian parts. Replacing both with US parts solved the problem.

The lesson is that not all vehicle computers are alike even though they might look and fit as if they were, even if the part numbers are almost but not quite identical.

(PS - the engine won't understand the difference between degrees C and degrees F).
 

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I have an 08 EXL-Navi and I have an issue where when it's 90+ outside it looses most of it's acceleration power at first, once it'd get up to 20mph or so it would almost be like a light switch and the power would be back.
I've had intake cleaning down twice now and it seems to cure the issue for about 18 to 24 months before I notice the symptoms gradually coming back. I've put about 80k miles on it in about 4-5 years.
I should have installed the muzzler and checked the VCM but haven't yet.
 
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