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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1996 Odyssey is just running FANTASTIC, as long as you are running down the road. Not a single issue with acceleration, cruising, etc.

About a year ago it started idling 'low' on occasion. I tuned it up, but it really didn't help. Over the summer the idle would intermittently drop real low and the A/C compressor would cycle. It really never "died" at this time.

Before Christmas I realized it had never had new WIRES put on. I bought some nice OEM wires, plugs, cap, rotor and could swere it was running better, but then soon the low idle was obvious and it was starting to die on occasion when backing out, or decelerating to a stop, etc. STILL, we drove it home for Christmas 628 miles each way and it ran perfect, EXCEPT to low idle and occasional dying at idle.

So, I read that these symptoms could very well be a FUEL FILTER. I ordered a $20 set of flared crows foot wrenches and changed that challenging little filter on the firewall. The job was easy, but the results were ZERO.

All new tune-up and now a new fuel filter and it run exactly the same. Cruises and accelerates fantastic, but idles like a model T. Dies frequently when stopping to shift gears unless foot is on gas. It is getting worse.

IDEAS?? ADVICE?? [1996 Odyssey - 170K]

Many Thanks,
Chaz.
 

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Based on your symptoms, I will put it out there and say that it is a case most likely with a "faulty" or "dirty" EGR sensor in need of some TLC. I say have a look at it and take it out and give it some loving by cleaning it up a bit. Plug her back in and you should notice a little if not some difference at idle as it should hold smooth and constant at a certain rpm usually 100x to 200x rpm range and acceleration responsiveness should actually remind you a bit more of how it "used" to feel like when things were fine and dandy.
I'm actually in the same boat where in my RA3 I used to change out the fuel filter and it would do the job.....but recent times i suspect equally that my EGR needs to have some maintenance or replacement. Will go check it out. Just my .02 cents and let us know how you take on your situation. post your results which ever route you go about resolving your issue.
 

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on a side note, if you get the opportunity as well, do some spirited driving as if she were a race car or just haul arse as if it were stolen to see if you get enough carbon and crap blown off or burned out. good luck....i will be doing that tomorrow and see what happens. (of course, in a defunct old airport runway i have access to entering)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
EGR sensor is not something I would have suspected, but willing to entertain. I will search for a picture to see WHERE that is located on this engine and consider your input. Many thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Anybody that knows the engine on the 1996 Ody have some Input. EGR not a likely culprit after inspection. Thanks!
 

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clean manifolds? clean egr? no pressure leaks?
you should be able to adjust idle knob no problem with these things checked on but if not i'm not too sure

the idle is bad in all gears correct? hondamatics have a slightly higher idle in park than they do in drive and neutral
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
@keVan - Thanks for the input. Actually wasn't getting much from the forum, but found enough 'old' threads about different Honda models that I think I have an idea. I purchased gaskets for the Throttle Body, EGR, and IAC. Research on YouTube [yes, really] tells me the IAC is the most likely culprit. It seems they get carboned up and begin to malfunction and many times can be cleaned. It is necessary to remove the throttle body to get to the IAC easily and I also plan to check EGR valve and EGR 'ports' [no gasket required on my port cover] also.

My van runs/accelerates well under power,but yes...the idle has just fallen off badly, to the point after it is warm it can die. Also, I finally noticed that while holding my foot on the gas to give me a decent idle...the RPMs ARE cycling up and down slightly, which is definitely another clue to IAC improper function.

I'm going to try and post pictures of the process after I complete. Maybe another 1st Gen owner would benefit from my experience. If it isn't too cold, I hope to accomplish this weekend.

Chaz.
 

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ah yes the iac thats what that thing is called. sounds good about the pics i'd like to see cause i've never attempted taking off the throtle body (looked scary haha) but i'm guessing if the iac is dirty then other bits probably are as well. yakuzza has a good writeup on cleaning egr which is a great money saver good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, I am going on the concept of "clean it all while I'm in there". I doubt it has been done...ever...in the van's life. I'll check out the yakuzza writeup. Thanks.
 

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you dont have to remove the throttle body to clean the iac. I cleaned mine then changed it. remove the two bolts holding it in place. pull it up and back and you can spray a good carb cleaner with a nozzle right in the iac openings. there is a screen that really gets dirty on the left side. after cleaning reinstall, start van and hope for the best. the coolant lines that go to the iac will limit you on how far you can lift it. my problem ended up being something else and I wasted a lot of money changing tha iac. a good cleaning usually does the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@wcornutt - This is a 1996 Ody with 2.2. Your description doesn't fit. Still, I appreciate your input.

@keVan - Job complete!! Unfortunately, 10 minutes before I was going to do the job we discover our digital camera [with hard to get family Christmas pics] hasn't been seen since Christmas. :( NO pictures except on iPhone, but I will send these to you if you provide Email and are interested.

Start: Van idle real low. Dying under load. Running/accelerating fine with no miss.
Parts: Purchased from dealer [just because AutoZone didn't have them ALL]: Throttle body gasket. 4 O-rings for IAC valve. EGR valve gasket. Was told EGR [port cover plate thing under injectors] has a reusable metal gasket by dealer. The Honda parts guy ALSO printed me two exploded view pictures of the whole mess.

Job: Unhook negative post on battery and tie back. Removed the air intake tube and filter. Removed the throttle body cables to get them out of the way; this was easier than I thought - just give'em slack and the stopper slides out on each one.

Place shop towel under everything from distributer and back under throttle body. Turn radio to oldies Rock station.

The IAC is under the throttle body and has two small coolant lines going to it. I removed thos first and got a small amount of antifreeze drip onto my towels below [also good for catching dropped nuts]...dropped nuts...hehehe...sorry. ANyway, there are "3" 10mm IAC bolts that are real easy with a 1/4 inch rachet, one of the bolts [back] also holds a small wire harness. If I had know the throttle body was so easy to remove [4 12mm bolts] I would have taken it off with the IAC attached. Either way. MY IAC looked great. There is no screen to clean or anything, just a thermostat type device. I cleaned mine just for yuks. The throttle body was dirty, but NOT operationally hindered. I made it all shine with throttle body cleaner.

Next I tackled the EGR stuff. Scary, but then totally a joke. I took "3" 10mm nuts off of these long studs on the fuel rail that holds the fuel injectors, and after unhooking a few vacuum hoses that entire thing just pops right out. I flexed the fuel line and tied the entire mess out of the way with a bungle chord to my hood support. "5" 10 or 12 mm bolts hold the EGR plate down to the manifold. Very easy. All this room also allows you to remove the EGR valve real easy. ALL my EGR ports were MOSTLY plugged!! It was a blast cleaning them. Felt like I was doing something. Cleaned and tested the EGR valve also with same TB spray. THE EGR PORT I cleaned with drill bits I just twisted with gloved fingers, which allowed my to easily remove all carbon, but not harm the metal - vacuumed - then sprayed TB cleaning - because I love the smell and it makes everything shine. OH, and just for yuks I used a mirror to see how gunky the fuel injector holes were, so cleaned those holes out with a small brush, vacuumed, and used TB cleaner.

The EGR plate valleys were the hardest to clean. I sat out on the driveway with a small slot driver and narrow pocket knife and scraped every bit of carbon out, then used TB cleaner spray at intervals to see where I was. It was a good 20 minutes of cleaning, but I wanted it to be perfect.

Such a simple engine [2.2], so it was easy to put back together. Need EGR valve gasket, new throttle body gasket, and IAC o-rings.

It sputtered at start, but ran like a champ. It first the idle was cycling like crazyafter warm up [but not too low like before], but then I topped of the anti-freeze and replaced the PCV valve I'd broken and it idle perfect. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!

[I will TRY to get a few iPhone pictures on here!]
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Don't have a clue if you are about to see some pictures, or what order. IF you do...there is a picture of clean/dirty EGR ports and the clean/dirty version of the EGR plate that was bolted over it and totally plugged with carbon originally. Again, this is a 1996 Odyssey with the 2.2 NON-vtec engine.

Chaz
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
THE ONLY ISSUE I STILL HAVE IS THE A/C COMPRESSOR clutch CYCLING AND DRIVING THE IDLE TOO LOW WHEN TURNED ON. ** HAD THIS PROBLEM EVEN BEFORE THE 100% BAD IDLE ISSUE.

The idle and drive is SOOOO much better with the EGR ports open that I can wait on the other, but still need to figure out why the A/C compressor being on causing the idle to drop and the compressor clutch to cycle on and off like that...Need to figure it out before summer. A/C works fine, but you end up having to turn the compressor off when you stop just to prevent the cycling, which is a nuisance and cannot be good for the A/C clutch.

Plan to ask Honda contacts tomorrow. Any ideas from the forum?

Chaz.
 

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update please. I cleaned my carbon out & all seemed great .. Now after about 6 months, idle is a little rough & is starting to labor when ac cycles on. (runs good otherwise) I wander if it is a sign of something starting to go bad? Also getting alcohol/gas smell, (strong at idle)everything looks dry in engine compartment. is there a pcv on these engines that can cause this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't have an update YET, but this is timely because I did just realize I have a major vacuum leak. I used some throttle body cleaner and sprayed unti I found it. It IS around the EGR plate I removed and cleaned. I do not know if the metal gasket I was told did NOT need to be changed is the culprite or not. Point is, I must fix that vacuum leak before troubeshooting the continued "low, cycling idle with the A/C on", but otherwise it is still running fine in all other regards. I will update when I get a chance to look at this, hopefully in the next few weekends.
 

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had same idle problem
after engine job no luck, did a compression test, # 2 valves were sticking replaced them and my idle was perfect after that
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My 1996 is still 'chugging' along. Purchased a 2006 Ody, so the 1996 has now fallen to the "when I get around to it" queue. Still idles/rattles like a diesel when warm and is really bad at idle with the A/C compressor on; although, it never stalls. Trying to decide whether to hold/sell the old Odyssey. I have a 1998 Accord and they currently are competing for a place in the driveway.
 

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Mine has been running pretty good lately, maybe seafoam worked? But I do need to replace bad cracked exhaust manifold. Probably sucking in fumes and making bad air fuel mix, thus could affect idle.
 
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