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Well...... now we are back to....Wheres the 2002 ody wiring info?

I just need to know where the Relay that controls my EX LSD actuator. Its apparently stuck closed, so I need to find it! Any Help locating it?!
What is the EX LSD actuator?
Buffalo4
PS: I do have the Factory Service Manual for my '03 and it also covers the '02. Why don't you dl the electrical manual in this forum?
 

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Here is solved problem
A Faulty fuel fill door switch will cause the Dr Slide door Actuator to keep the door locked.
And circuit 173 in a draw state. The Beeping warning occures when you try to electronically open.
A Voltage Drop test across passenger-fuse #12 is how the fault if found. It should be "0" volts.
Door fails to open, or close. Please use the voltage drop across the fuses method.
It's very clear from the diagram that an open fill door will energize the relay and drain the battery.
Basically, you leave the battery connected and key off. Then measure voltage across each fuse. If no current is
flowing across that fuse then you'll see no voltage. If current is flowing through a fuse then there will be a
voltage drop across that fuse. The amount of voltage drop depends on the type of fuse and the amount of current
across a fuse. What you see inside the fuel compartment is a catch for the door stud, fill hole, and a black
plastic plunger (normally called the Switch) that the door plastic "pusher" presses. This has a long cable
connected on the bottom of it. This comes UNATTACHED and cannot push the wire cable thru the houseing to the
electrical switch that is on the interior wheel swell hump top. This failure tells the PCM that the fuel door
is OPEN, so it commands the actuator to keep the door locked, and not to energize the closer/opener and locks.
When the Driver depresses the dr passenger left door open switch (left of steering wheel) dash, the security
system begins beeping. That is the only response, and the actuator being alive, becomes a parasitic battery
draw that can drain the battery overnight!


Remove two row seating, left rear wall panel
fix #1 = unplug the switch located on top of hump, attached to the big black harness, thus by-passing the
door switch/draw. This is temporary til you can do fix #2.
fix #2 = just above the hump you see the door mover motor assembly. It has four bolts afixing it to body.
un-bolt and move out of way a little to get to the plunger & cable. REmove and replace that.




THE SYMPTOMS
In case anybody else reads my thread, the symptoms of a broken fuel door switch are:
1. Driver's side passenger door won't open
2. Passenger door lock doesn't work with the fob, the switch, or manually.
3. The lock on the door bounces back when you try to unlock it. Holding it for 1 or 2 seconds will keep make
it stay in the unlocked position.
4. This will drain your battery. There is about 500 milliamps current flowing all the time.
5. You hear three beeps when you try to open the door.
6. The door starts to open but immediately stops.

Bills86e
 

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Yes...just access to the Hump, all that is in front of you. Relay, Sensor/plunger
cable switch, door motorized mover motor assembly. Remove the door mover
4 10mm bolts, then two 10mm at top to get the silver bracket removed and
out of the way, to lift up into the top of cavity.A chunk of 2x4 and pry bar to
lift the mover motor assembly upward,you can see into the body cavity lower
RH corner, and on outer body shell fender, the fill door cable. Unplug the top
right electrical connector so it does not get pinched next. Now reach your
left skinny hand under the mover motor assembly to twist the plunger houseing
to right 1/8th turn to pull the thing out. The plunger wings help to twist.
Insert your new cable plunger end into the"chevy logo" hole, push and twist
left 1/8th turn to lock it in place. WARNING Just be careful handling, as the
plunger cable to sheath end was metal crimped to the plastic and is is fragile.


Bills86e
 

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to add this info for everyone:

Yes...just access to the Hump, all that is in front of you. Relay, Sensor/plunger
cable switch, door motorized mover motor assembly. Remove the door mover
4 10mm bolts, then two 10mm at top to get the silver bracket removed and
out of the way, to lift up into the top of cavity.A chunk of 2x4 and pry bar to
lift the mover motor assembly upward,you can see into the body cavity lower
RH corner, and on outer body shell fender, the fill door cable. Unplug the top
right electrical connector so it does not get pinched next. Now reach your
left skinny hand under the mover motor assembly to twist the plunger houseing
to right 1/8th turn to pull the thing out. The plunger wings help to twist.
Insert your new cable plunger end into the"chevy logo" hole, push and twist
left 1/8th turn to lock it in place. WARNING Just be careful handling, as the
plunger cable to sheath end was metal crimped to the plastic and is is fragile.

:p Seach youtube videos to see pictoralized interior removal of driver side
wall panel below the window.


Bills86e :cool:
 

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Appears the e-store link no longer works even for the ~1 day period that it once did. Can't open any of the "instruction" pdf's linked there at all- what now?
 

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2002 Ody with Parasitic Draw

JoseTJ,

Thank You so very much!:)


I found the cause of my parasitic draw. My negative cable was internally corroded, and that caused my new battery to short a cell. After replaceing both, and the Pos cable's end, Problem Solved!
Added Dielectrical grease too.


This ended my many months of diagnoseing.



JoseTJ,

Thank You so very much!


I found the cause of my parasitic draw. My negative cable was internally corroded, and that caused my new battery to short a cell. After replaceing both, and the Pos cable's end, Problem Solved!
Added Dielectrical grease too.


This ended my many months of diagnoseing.

Bills86e
 

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Billw86e,
Happy the parasitic draw was fixed but I don't know how a neg battery cable can cause the drain since it could only 'short' to a positive wire, AFAIK.
I still have a parasitic drain on my '03 that I haven't found yet. I need to get busy and try to find it.
Buffalo4
 

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Search for "Parasite" electrical

If your odometer is messed up, you definately have a bad ground. Thats the tell tale. The PCM can't control power. You go crazy tryin to search fuse 13, the power door motors, ect. I had bought a relay testor, two volt/amp meters, an Amprobe, and Maxisys Pro, to no avail. Grounds are Everything. My ground cable WAS internally corroded. Live n Learn. I even removed my radio, and disconnected my overhead DVD, that did nothing to the draw. At least my Battery dealer replace my new battery, it was "shorted" in one cell. :DD

I suggest you replace your ground to body cable.

Bill
 

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Still, if your your main battery ground cable is that corroded, I wouldn't think the starter would work. Maybe the skinny wire from the neg bat clamp going to the frame made it work.
Anyhow, I am happy it fixed your problem. Lots about electrical connections i don't know.
Yep poor ground connections can raise a lot of hell.
Buffalo4
 

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On my Ody the neg post clamp is a two cable connector. One directly to engine block near starter, 2nd cable to frame by radiator top.
Again, if your digital odometer appears poor, numbers are funky,the grounding to frame is bad, and effects your PCM. Hence: the "Tell-Tail" parasite.
Killer of the Battery.
Bill
 

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Could someone post a link to the PDF please? None of the links in this thread work anymore. I cant believe that it is this difficult to retrieve a f pdf manual.
 

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Having electrical issues. Gauges go crazy sensor illumination lite up. Dies out hard to start up. It's been cold under 30 degrees. Researching why. ….
 
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