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Discussion Starter #1
Hey I have many first generation honda Odyssey vans. Atleast two of them have flashing drive lights on the dashboard gear-selection display. (P,R,N,D,D3,D2)

I have tried everything I can think of.

I have flushed and filled the fluid several times.

I have connected the code reader and jumped the pins to check for codes. There are no codes.

The light starts flashing after the vehicle has been running for 60 seconds.

I have disconnected the battery to clear any codes, and this does nothing. The light continues to blink upon re-connection and start-up.

On one Odyssey I even replaced the transmission with a spare I had. The light continued to blink right away as soon as it was reassembled and started.

I am really about to lose it here, does anyone know why this light is flashing and how to make it stop? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just to reiterate, I have NO CEL LIGHT.

The check engine lights are in fine working order and they can be triggered through other tests (map sensor unplug) so the CEL lights are all working how they should.

Is there a way to check honda-transmission only codes? Such as a separate ECU for just the trans?

Help, thanks!
 

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Have you tried switching out the speed sensor? Its located at the top of the transmission directly below the throttle body? It has a plug with 3 wires?
 

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86hamstersi is right on the money .. swap the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Easy fix. Just remove the air intake tube and you'll see the VSS on top of the tranny. This is a typical issue on these cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will drive to the shop right now and swap out the VSS.

I have swapped these transmissions, motors, and every internal part you can think of. I am no stranger to the F22B6 motor in these vans (and accords) and I find it hard to believe a fix so simple is causing my problem.

I will purchase a new VSS and install it within the next hour.

Any other ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I installed a new VSS in the car with the flashing drive light. This did not fix the problem.

Any other ideas?

Thanks!
 

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You didn't say what year, but I have something for checking codes on a 95 Odyssey. Its counting the D light blinks when the SCS connector is jumped. I can't send the file , because its too big. I would need your e-mail address. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would be ecstatic to have any information you have.

I have 95, 96, 97, 98, and 99 odysseys.

my email address is corksil[at]gmail[dot]com

Thank you very much I knew there was something like this!
 

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Can anyone give their experience an ebay VSS versus Rock Auto/ Auto Zone??
Does the price difference show a difference in quality????
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright here is the follow up.

Everything checks out fine. I opened the TCM and inspected it for burned resistors/capacitors as mentioned in your link and found no problems.

I have managed to extract 2 codes from the TCM.

Jumping the pins on SCS connector under the glove box does NOT give any CEL/MIL light codes. The CEL/MIL light stays ON and does NOT blink any codes.

However when I jump the pins - the D4 light flashes out two separate codes. The D4 TCM codes are 1 and 2.

blink..............blink blink.....................blink....................blink blink (repeat)

the blinks are all the same length, there are no 'tens' and it is not code 12 I am very sure it is code ONE and code TWO.

What are these codes?

Thanks.
 

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Can anyone give their experience an ebay VSS versus Rock Auto/ Auto Zone??
Does the price difference show a difference in quality????
Got one off of ebay a while ago but have procrastinated on the installation :(. I'll post again if/when I get it installed.
 

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Corksil,

I would agree with your assessment of the blinking light. If the blinks are all the same length (short blinks), then you have a code 1 and a code 2. The TCM codes are supposed to flash the D4 just as you observed, not the CEL light.

Code 1 and 2 are related. 1 is for the lockup solenoid valve A and 2 is for the lockup solenoid valve B. I think both are mounted on the front of the trans, just below or in front of the distributor. It should have two wires going to it and have two rounds valves on it.
 

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There is also a shift solenoid in the same vicinity and both look alike. I'm not sure how to tell them apart. Also the lockup solenoid is pretty expensive at about $235 list. Ouch. You would want to test that to make sure it's the solenoid before buying it.
 

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One more thing, take a look at this link for a diagram and some more info on the filters behind the solenoids. Wondering if a clogged filter behind the solenoid could set the codes.

RAx Tuning
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks very much AlmanRacer... I have switched out both solenoid valve A/B with new ones, and did not notice any gunk in the filters behind the valves.

I read the link you sent me and it was very helpful. I have checked all 5 filter/screens mentioned and did not find any metallic buildup or blockage of any kind.

I have also flushed and filled my trans fluid with the proper Honda ATF several times after switching the valves.

My TCU still registers codes 1/2 through the flashing D4 light and I have reset it several times and the codes come right back after a short drive.

Do you have any other suggestions?

Also, if there is a testing procedure for the valves, I would like to test them instead of buying more new ones.

Thanks very much for your help.
 
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